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Old 08-10-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Clinton, MS
Posts: 170
Talking Re-keying the tank and seat locks

Well, the Trophy is a 1 key bike again. A while back my ignition switch went out and had to be replaced. I was also running the Triumph trunk with it's own key. As a result I had to carry 3 keys on the ring. It was annoying me to have 3 keys so I used info on re-keying I had read a few years back to re-key the trunk. So for the past couple of years I have been using 2 keys. Well today I decided (since it was 101 degrees) that I would change out the pannier locks to match the ignition, and see if the seat and tank locks could be re-keyed. The answer was "YES." The tank and seat lock cylinders take much more work to get to than the bags, but once out are easy to alter.

In case anyone is interested here is how it works. I am not an engineer and not much of a writer, so bear with me.

The seat lock:
The entire unit has to be removed with cable and torn down. Take care to pay attention to how the unit is put together as it has many parts and is spring loaded. There is a brass looking key at the bottom of the cylinder socket that holds the cylinder in place. Working from the top of the lock a small (eyeglasses size) flathead screwdriver can be inserted into the cylinder socket and the key (shiny area at the bottom of the cylinder socket) must be retracted from the socket wall back into the cylinder. It is spring loaded like the tumblers. Once retracted use the key in the keyhole to pull the lock cylinder out of the socket. Once out the tumblers are adjusted just like those in the bag locks (switch around the tumblers and/or grind down the tops to make work.) Always be careful not to lose the small springs that push the tumblers into the locking position. Put the unit back together and reinstall on the bike. You will need zipstrips to replace the ones cut when removing the cable.

Tank lock:
This similar the seat lock, but more complex as it had many more parts. Remove the entire filler cap and ring from the tank. Under the filler cap there are 2 screws, remove these. If you have a poor memory and/or are not mechanically minded you may want to take pics of each step of the tear down. Beware that there are at least 3 separate spring loaded parts in the tear down. They are not under high pressure and won't shoot out, but if you drop them they can be a pain to find (trust me on this one) Once to the lock you must prise off the silver dresser for the keyhole being careful not to loose the spring loaded sealer device below it. Then flip the lock over and remove the rubber washer that is between the lock cylinder and socket, then the shiny metal ring that is under the washer. This cylinder also has a socket locking key. It must be retracted using a small flathead screwdriver. With the bike key in the keyhole remove the cylinder. Once removed the tumblers can be altered as the other lock cylinders. Put it all back together and enjoy carrying only one key. Of course this is only for those who have had to re-key the ignition.

Just thought I'd share the info. If you need more complete directions feel free to contact me via emai.

Last edited by Trophy1298 : 08-10-2007 at 10:36 PM.
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