Triumphrat

trophy_cup · 10-11-2006

I purchased race tech springs and cartridge emulators for my 2000 trophy and I have a few questions:

What size allen fits the fork rod secured to the bottom of the fork? We used a 5/16 with many extensions but not sure if this is correct. Only have one fork disaseembled so far. If I can find the correct metric size I'll weld one to a tube.

The RaceTech springs are much shorter than stock. Is this normal?

Does anyone have baseline measurements for cutting the spring spacer tubes? And if so did you use RaceTech emulators since these take up about .5 inches.

Thanks

What viscosity oil did you go with?

Trophy1298 · 10-12-2006

I used the emulators and 7wt oil. That is about all I can tell ya. Did mine 5 or 6 years ago. I can not remember what size allen or measurements. I do remember thinking the springs were shorter than stock. If anything, I used Racetech's suggestions on measurements or info from the Yahoo forum I was on then. Good luck. Hopefully some of the other guys (who have done this more recently) will chime in soon.

You won't regret it. I never have.

sailfish · 10-15-2006

I thought that the instructions that came with the Race Tech parts were a pretty good source of information...

The hex in the damping tube is a 30mm (see your original post on this topic from about 3 weeks ago)

Yes, the springs are shorter.

See the Race Tech info on spring preload. Expect to spend some time on this if you want good results.

Race Tech says 15w or 10w Super Slick shock oil.

[ This message was edited by: sailfish on 2006-10-15 16:12 ]

trophy_cup · 10-15-2006

OK got the race tech springs and emulators installed and came across a few intereting items.

The forks on my bikes seem to be Showa and are a later design.

Step 1 is put bike on center stand, remove the lower fairing from the bottom of the engine and use blocks to build up the height until the engine case takes the weight off the front suspension.

Step 2 was pull the front fender (2 pieces), pull the calipers, and unscrew the speedo retaining screw.

Step 3 is pull the front wheel axle and pull the wheel. This requires loosening the axle clamp bolts and and axle nut.

Step 3.5 with fork tube still assembled undo and remove the two allen screws and copper washers holding the damper tube to the bottom of the fork. With the spring still putting pressure on the damper rod it comes undone easily. Fork oil will beign coming out so put a pan underneath.

Step 4 is under the 8 allen screws holding the forks in the triple clamps.

Step 5 is remove the fork cap (warning this is under pressure) and remove spacer and spring. If you did step 3.5 the damper rod will come out. Make sure the top out spring remains in tube or at least remember to put back in before tube is reinstalled.

Step 6 only applies if you did not do step 3.5. When you remove the bottom allen screws retaining the damper tube you'll find it spins if not under tension. Now the tube in my foke did not have an allen or place for 30 mm bolt so not sure where the 30mm bolt comes into play. It was by change that a 1/4 allen held the damper from turning (pure luck). What I did find was than a plumpers tool used to remove pipe nipples as a spiral that tappers and will hold the rod from turing so made a new tool with on of these welded to a 1/2 inch tube. Again if the allen is removed with fork assembled the spring tension should hold the damper rod from turning.

Step 7 is hold the damper rod and drill the 6 holes as RaceTech describes. Deburr and clean to remove and metal shavings.

Step 8 drop damper tubes back in a reinstall allen with new copper washers. The allens tightened up without spring pressure on damper tube or holding tube. Some may require tension to hold damper from turning.

Step 9 dropped in emulatror, washer from spring kit and then fill with 15wt fork oil with fork compressed until oil is 125mm from top of fork (used metric rule with stop at 125mm). Make sure you move fork a few times to insure oil fills lower section of fork.

Step 10 drop in spring, washer, spacer tube cut to 9 inches (ended up flush with fork tube when entended) and washer. The 9 inche spacer tube worked for me as a based line however some may require a bit longer or shorter spacer. Screw in fork cap.

Reverse from step 4 except allen screws that holder damper tube are already installed.

If I find I need more preload after riding I'll remove the cap and install addtional washers between cap and spacer tube. Note that to do this I'll have to minimize tension on spring by elavating from wheel assy. This allows tuning with forks in bike. To tune emulator will require removing spring, spacer and washers however I do not believe this will be necessary.

Will I'm off since the wife is opening some wine and I'm a bit thirsty

12004 · 10-15-2006

I used PJ 1 fork oil...10wt. I will change to 5wt. as the forks do not react as quickly (rebound) as I would like. We used the medium setting with both the spacers and the emulator.

15mm. spacer and #2 setting on the emulator. I'm about 207lbs. and I run a tank bag, (2-7lbs.)

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Tom.

In my opinion...cheap oil, cheap fuel, and cheap parts...are for cheap bikes.

trophy_cup · 10-15-2006

Thanks Tom. I'll change oil depending on findings after a few rides. I went with 15wt based on RaceTech info provided for the bike.