What's involved in Racetech spring and emulator install? - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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Trophy Trophy 3 & 4 - for all 900 and 1200cc models 1991- 2004

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Old 09-11-2006, 07:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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To balance out the new rear shock from Hagon due in a few weeks I ordered the Racetech front springs and cartridge emulators.

I'm mechanically inclined so doing the install shouldn't be too difficult provided I'm patient. However I was wondering if anyone else had done this and could they let me know if the lower tubes have to be removed or can everything go in from the top tube caps?
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Don't know Cup, but I am curious too. Just ordered Race Tech springs and emulators for my forks.
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Old 09-11-2006, 01:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I've done it. The Haynes manual rating for this operation is "difficult", compared to "very difficult". The fork legs must be completely disassembled as Race Tech wants you to enlarge orifices in the damping tubes, so they need to come out. If you don't have a manual get one before you start. You will need some speciality tools like a damping tube holder, I used a 36" long steel tube with a 30mm nut welded to the end of it and clamped it into a bench vise. The Haynes manual shows you how to make one. You will need a seal driver to put the lower leg seals back in.

If your bike has many miles on it just order everything, seals, bushings, etc. and make your fork new again while you have it apart. The parts aren't too expensive, I think well under $100 when I did it 3 years ago. My bushings were showing some wear at 35,000 miles.

When you button it up you will need to cut new spring spacers (included) to set the sag for your new spring setup. I got lucky, my educated guess first cut was correct. My sag came out to 31%, I think that I was shooting for 33%. Just don't cut them too short. You can add small amounts of preload by adding large diameter washers to the stack. A trick that I learned years ago if you're using a hack saw, tighten a hose clamp on the tube and use it as a cutting guide, otherwise you'll never get a straight cut. A tubing cutter is preferred.

Give it the full weekend.



[ This message was edited by: sailfish on 2006-09-12 07:10 ]
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Old 09-11-2006, 04:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks Sailfish. I'm looking forward to getting it done when I get my shock too.
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Old 09-11-2006, 09:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks Sailfish! I have the factory manual which may help.

Have a small mig for welding up the tool as mentioned. My bike is a 2000 with 12K miles so think I'll do the seals and bushings based on age (better while it's a part than leaking later on).

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Old 09-13-2006, 10:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You won't regret it. Put the Race Tech Springs and Emus on years ago. Best thing for the front end. No more nose dives. Have about 30,000 miles since the mod and would do it again. It is a serious job. Make sure you use the manuals and instructions exactly. Not a bad idea to have an extra set of hands helping out either.

Keep us informed.
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I had the local tech do mine and I really wish I had done it myself. It did not look extremely difficult. The forks are basic and the holes you drill do not need to be absolutly perfect.

I would definately have a buddy around to help out. My spacer cut was too long. I may take the forks apart this winter as it's a little on the stiff side. I will try 5wt. fork oil first. I used 10wt., probably a mistake on my part.

You will not regret going with the race tech set up. It's a dramatic improvement.

Cheers,

Tom.
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