Triumphrat

MidnightTrophy

Hey All!

Guys chime in what gear ratios (sprockets) you have or currently run.
I'm thinking to go +2 front -1/2 rear to lower hi way RPM.
Thanks in advance.

Trophy4

I believe you're moving the wrong way. You need to drop a tooth on front and/or drop a tooth in the back to drop revs @ speed.

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J Goertz
Birmingham, AL

rubber biscuit

No, with out getting into combinations of counter shaft/drive sprocket ratios, adding teeth to the countershaft sprocket will drop revs per mph in all gears, as will dropping teeth on the drive sprocket.

FoothillRyder

Biscuit is correct. Reducing the tooth count on the countershaft sprocket increases the numerical ratio (increasing the engine RPM for a given road speed), while reducing the tooth count on the drive sprocket reduces that ratio with a corresponding drop in RPM for a given speed.

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- FoothillRyder
AMA# 289558, COP#0001, BIR#47
'97 Trophy 3, '98 Tiger, '03 Speedie
My Blog

mcatrophy

Try my gearing calculator here.

You can play tunes with the sprockets.

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mcatrophy
'10 FJR1300AS [ex '06 FJR1300AS, '02 Trophy 1200, '01 Bonneville, '55 Tiger Cub]
http://atrophy.lock.net

MidnightTrophy

Guys we're going off track here.

DRIVEN(rear sprocket)
----------------------------- = FINAL RATIO
DRIVE(front sprocket)

Apply final ratio numerical figure to transmission ratio(s), you'll have individual gear final ratio.

The higher, numerically, tooth count on a DRIVEN gear, the higher the RPM at any given speed. The lower, numerically, tooth count on DRIVE gear, the higher RPM at any given speed.

But this is all irrelevant...All I was asking about the real experiences of having numerically different sprockets front/back...

Any real cases of "gear change" and how it affected your riding experience?


Cheers ...

TravisL

This doesn't help much, but from the digging I've done I'm going to try going with a 19/40 combo.

triplestrength

I use 1200Trophy gearing on my 900 it works out to 4500rpm at 70mph which suits me really well it improved the fuel economy a little but for me because I was doing a fair amount of motorway riding, the drop in revs stopped the bike feeling buzzy.
It's a 19 tooth on the front. Can't remember the rear but it was whatever was stock for the 1200.

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Flattrack loon

Its been a bit of a toss up for me,I like the gearing Ive got on the bike on backroads,but then its revving 4 grand at 70 mph,it seems like a 1200 should be able to loaf along at 2500 rpm on the hiway.
But really,to pass quick the thing should be revving at 3500 or 4 grand to whoosh past cars,its a 4 cylinder and seems real smooth at 4 grand and still gets over 40 mpg doing so. Im not so sure gearing it way taller would help with mileage that much.
I do like the acceleration as the gearing is.

Guys who have geared it taller,does it get much better mileage?

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Bikes in shed-(1968 Greeves 360 Challenger.)(2011 530-KTM EXCR-)(2009 KTM 200 XC-W) (2003 DR650 Suzuki.) (1999 Triumph 1200 Trophy.) Nor Cal rider.

rubber biscuit

I think the stock gearing is the best over all for most conditions, at least where I live. Most of my riding is pretty curvy badly surfaced secondary roads with a lot of elevation changes. There is a lot of slowing down and speeding up. On some of these roads 50 to 60 mph is a good pace and with the stock ratios there is a minimum of back and forth shifting. The few times on a highway I think sure the revs could drop a lot and the bike could easily mantain speed, but the compromise would be less than ideal on the roads I usually ride. If most of my riding was out west with long sweeping 70,80,90mph roads I probably would add a tooth or two to my countershaft sprocket. But give your riding area and road type a serious look and don't change gearing just for change sake.