Triumphrat

BoardBandit

Yeah, I didn't think so. But now you have a known set of good coils.

Next step- Before I got too carried away sending the bike to a dealer to pay $400! to have the carbs "rebuilt", I'd do a little more investigating. You have the tank off since you checked for spark (at least you should have the tank off). Start by draining the carbs into a small cup. Look at what comes out. Does it look clean? Occasionally draining the carburetor bowls will dislodge any bits of stuff that may have ended up in there.

Check your vacuum line that goes to the petcock. Check it REAL well. Any cracks may allow it to suck air and not release the diaphragm which lets fuel through. Replace it if in doubt.

Do you have a small gas can, perhaps one with a plastic vent nipple? Hook a section of hose on the nipple and connect it to the carbs as a temporary fuel source. Other folks have had luck setting their tank on the bike backwards and hooking it back up that way. At this point, however, I'd like to avoid using the tank since we want to eliminate any source of trouble. A known clean source of fuel would be best. If you can hook up an external fuel tank, use only one of the gas lines to the carburetor and plug the other one. Doesn't matter which one- they both go to the same place. Plug the vacuum line and crank her over. Bet you'll have something.

If you still got nothin', then it's time to pull the carbs. If you are at all skilled, it's not a huge deal- worse than some other bikes, but the carbs themselves are pretty straight forward. There are bits inside that will need to be replaced but there are plenty of places on the internet to get an idea of carb cleaning. Be resourceful.

Good luck and let us know what you find. Feel free to ask questions along the way. It's why communities like this exist.

DBarbera

I too have had the Crank position sensor/Coils issue. I (of coarse) changed the crank position sensor first, then moved on to the nology coils. One thing I noticed as I was taking the tank off that the fuel diapham line was pinched off at 90 degree because it was routed on the wrong side of the frame.
Another thing that turned out to be a problem was the little black jumper wire that goes to the (on my bike) non existent alarm system. It was corroded and making very poor contact which actually was the culprit behind all of my problems. The connector sits right in front of the battery on my 97 1200. The jumper wire was down to like 3 blue strands and came apart as soon as I touched it.
Hopefully this helps, it's a lot cheaper and easier then a carb rebuild.
Dan

Nigle

Update: Finally got around to working an the Trophy again (part procrastination, part frustration). I did everything BoardBandit suggested and still got nothing. Motor cranks fine. I verified I'm getting spark. But not even a sputter when I try starting. Not even with starter fluid sprayed in the air box. I guess pulling the carbs is next but now I'm getting into uncharted waters for me. I need clarification, the Haynes manual says if removing the air box you have to remove the carbs but when you go to the carb removal section it says to remove the air box. What came first, the chicken or the egg? What about the Ignition Sensor? If I'm getting spark, can that still be bad? Appreciate the help

Nigle

Updat #2: Pulled the plugs, cleaned (they were a little cruddy) regapped and reinstalled and it started right up.

CA45

Nigle, glad to hear your problem solved. Now maybe someone can help with mine.
Old Issue on the Forum. New Mystery. I have followed most threads that I could find related to “No Spark” etc., but have not come across any thread that helps me solve my problem. I’ve conducted all the continuity and voltage test found in various threads with no solution to the problem. A little history: Bike has set (garaged) for the better part of a year and a half. I would start it up every few weeks or so and allow it to idle for about 10 – 15 minutes. It would only idle with choke about ¾ engaged, but would stall out when attempting to rev engine. Suspected FOD (foreign object debris) in the tank – Drained the carbs, drained the tank sever times through an inline fuel filter, installed inline filters to eliminate FOD and installed fresh fuel. Checked spark, it was weak but there. Checked coils and Igniter Pick-up and found high resistance on the Pick-up. Replace Igniter pick-up (thought problem solved), got spark but even weaker than before then no spark at all (all three Gill Coils when south - infinite resistance from Plug wire outlet to both spades). Replaced all coils with new Nology coils – still no spark!!! Boy do I need help! If anyone out there can shed some light and help me solve this problem, before I decide to part it out, would be extremely appreciated.

Michael (Befuddled in Ohio!)