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Trophy Trophy 3 & 4 - for all 900 and 1200cc models 1991- 2004

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Old 08-30-2009, 01:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Acumen DG8 Gear Indicator tips

Well, after a total git of a job I finally have the DG8 up and running. If any of you have considered doing it but were'nt sure, it is worth it, but it wont run perfectly due to the close ratios of 3rd, 4th and 5th gear.

You will need the wheel sensor kit, which is a doddle to fit but costs another £35 or so as we obviously dont have an electronic speedo. The unit works by mathmatically comparing signals from the wheel sensors/electronic speedo if you have one, with the signal from the tacho and working out the ratio between them, and then displaying the gear that matches that ratio.

Heres a few time/// saving tips that I found out (the hard way)

**** Fitment ****
1. glue the sensor magnets into the plastic holders, then glue the holder into the disk bolt.. they fall out.

2. you dont need to strip all the fairing off, you only need to remove the chin piece and the nose piece by taking out the 8 fairing bolts, 4 dashboard bolts, the mirrors and the 2 main bolts underneath. (You only need to get to the back of the dash, no further)

3. Once you have access to the back of the dash unit, scotch lock:

- earth (to the earth of the fuel gauge)
- the constant live (to the clock feed)
- the ignition live (to the yellow wire on the ignition multiplug on the right)
- the neutral signal wire (to the neutral light)

4. Do not try to scotchlock onto the tacho wire, its not a good enough connection, you MUST solder it as the instructions suggest. (I also soldered the wheel sensor wire of the wheel kit to the speed sensor wire of the DG8 just to make sure)

**** teaching it ****
1. make sure you have the engine running while you do the entire teaching setup, including telling it how many gears you have.

2. when youre ready to set off, find a quiet road you can go at low speed on.

3. go through the gears when it tells you to, but dont rev above 2500 rpm, the signals will be too similar and itll get mighty confused when youre finished.

4. when the number starts to flash quickly, give the bike a neutral throttle (maintaining speed). Accelerating will confuse the end result.

5. If you run out of road, just stop as usual, turn around and go back up through the gears, the DG8 cant learn the same gear twice, itll just wait for you to reach where you left off.

6. Once taught, try the gears out. If it wont display 3rd or 5th but just 4th instead, start the teaching again but slow down. My best end result was that it would show 1,2,3 5,6 but not 4th.. as the revs are so similar the 'window' around the learned ratio that the DG8 uses overlaps slightly.

I wish Id known this at the beginning of Saturday morning!!! It would have saved a whole lot of swearing! I have the DG8 with the voltmeter on it which is really great. It fits well just above either fairing pocket.

hope that might help anyone in the future.

Matt
02 trophy 12
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Old 08-30-2009, 02:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That's really interesting, although disappointing that it can't get all the gears. I'm keener on the voltmeter part of it, though. Can anyone recommend a good one? I don't really want the added expense of a gear indicator.
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Old 08-30-2009, 03:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You should be able to teach it successfully - I used this exact setup with my bike (T509 Speed Triple at that point) using the sensor kit.
Different bike of course, but I can't see why it would not differentiate the difference in gears.

One thing that will improve performance it to use more magnets - this will dramatically improve the update time, which is quite slow in the lower gears. I used 6 magnets on mine. If you are shifting rapidly in the lower gears, it may not have recomputed before it updates. More magnets means more pulses means improved resolution and faster update time

I actually taught mine originally with the bike on the stand, as I had the sensor & magnets on the rear wheel.
After I switched out my speedo system and incorporated a front wheel speed sender, I re-calibrated the unit by riding and again had no issues.

I would say that it should probably be easier to teach while riding, there is no load on the wheel if it's on the stand. But nevertheless I was able to accomplish it on the stand.
The only 'trick' that I found to be important (and the manual covers this) is to ensure that you actively find neutral between 1 & 2, and don't shift directly from 1 to 2.
If you have to teach it by riding, I think it best to find a road where you will have no interruptions of junctions, stop lights etc and can continue progressively through the 6 gears to complete the process while maintaining a constant engine speed.
Once you get it right, there should never be any reason to re-visit the teaching process (unless you change something like sprocket sizes)

Incidentally, you can reduce your cost basis if you have mechanical speedo, by doing your own sender
Here is a low cost example here of how you can accomplish that
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...rly-model.html

It's a decent device - worth having IMO





Here's a pretty lame video from immediately after I first taught mine on the stand (this using the Acumen sender kit)

http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/l...=MOV01794.flv]


.
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Old 08-30-2009, 04:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamsa View Post
... I'm keener on the voltmeter part of it, though. Can anyone recommend a good one? ...
http://www.datelmeters.com/cgi-bin/w...ent-2-wireacdc

If you aren't necessarily too worried about knowing the actual numeric value, but just the peace of mind that your charging system is operating as should be, here is a super ultra-compact device that will do that job for you.

http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/HUVM.asp

All you need is to locate the LED - the module can go anywhere out of the way.

Great product at only $26.95
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Old 08-31-2009, 07:17 AM   #5 (permalink)
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interesting you put the magnets on the rear sprocket, I never thought of that! I was looking for a rear wheel mount at the start, but couldnt work out how to get the sensor close enough.. but that would surely solve it.

Ive tried all sorts of approaches with the teaching.. I always do the Neutral select between 1st and 2nd though.

To be honest, its just knowing Im in top that I really want... something to stop my OCD 'try to click it up one more' habit!
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