Triumphrat

toibs

Morning guys,

Managed to snap my throttle cable last week, so got a replacement cable from triumph, and figured i'd give it a good cleanout (and replace the air filter whilst there). Other than this, all was working ok.

So - Removed carbs, air filter. Changed filter for K&N so maintenance is a minimum. Cleaned exterior of carbs with Carb cleaner. Removed Diaphrams to check all ok and replaced Air o-ring. Opened float chambers and replaced the two common rings on the float chambers (didnt touch the float heights since figured it wouldnt need it). Blew needles through with compressed air to make sure clean - didnt remove them. Reset the mixture to 1.5 turns out from a "soft seating" as is suggested in several places.

So - have put it all back together again, with new throttle cable and replacement fuel/vacuum lines, and it wont start. I have fuel making it to the carb floats, since i get fuel out of the drains on all three, however it wont start. If i use the choke then after a while i get a stong fuel smell as i would expect. Battery currently on full charge overnight, however i spent a good 30 mins (before the battery had enough) yesterday, and it would turn over however wouldnt fire up.

Has anyone any suggestions that i might try to try to isolate the issue?

Thanks
Paul

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'94 Trophy 900 triple

Biggreentrophy

I own a 95 Trophy 3 and only in colder weather it wouldn't start, until I jacked the idle air screws 2 1/2 almost 2 3/4 out. After a teardown such as that Triumph recommends turning the pet cock to the prime position to fire it up....it may be that simple,good luck

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Once you go through the TRIUMPH door, all other doors look like walls!

toibs

Thx BGT,

Oki - many thanks for the advice - Can you advise is there any easy way to do this in situ, or do i have to remove the carbs again to change?

Thx
Paul

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'94 Trophy 900 triple

Dittos3

Where were the air screws before you tore the carbs down?

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Ditto

"My life was screwed up before I was born." - Steve McQueen

toibs

Around 2 turns - no more. This was why i figured 1.5 turns would still be fine - at least start her!

Paul

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'94 Trophy 900 triple

toibs

Hold on - think i maye have found the issue...

It wasnt the mixture screw, it was the PILOT SCREW that was changed - The one just inside the float chamber. Was changed from around 2 turns to 1.5 turns in each float chamber.

Can anyone advise if there's any way of confirming what this should be set at? Would this cause the problem i'm getting?

Apologies - only picked it up through another decent read of the haynes manual...

Paul

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'94 Trophy 900 triple

gamsa

You've lost me there. The mixture screw regulates the flow through the pilot jet. That's all the adjustment you have. Jets should be tight inside the float chamber itself. Have you checked that the butterflies are closing fully when the throttle is released? You should hear it click against the idle stop. Otherwise, you may have routed the new throttle cable incorrectly and be trying to start the engine with throttle partly open.

toibs

Lol - Thx Gamsa - you have inadvertantly hit the nail on the head

I now realise (i'm not a bike mechanic, and this is my first forte into carbs) that as you correctly put it, this is the only adjustment on these. However the pilot jet is definately 1/2 turn lighter than it was previously (leaner i believe). Apparently Mikumi recommend this be set to 2 turns as set from the factory..

Decided to have another look this afternoon. Nothing done other than charging the battery overnight, and left covered
on the drive. So, after most of the day digging about to try to find a
resolution of this problem - hence this post. Figured i'd go have a play around 6pm so put the battery back on the bike, and it started first try!

Because i'd changed the throttle cable (i.e. replaced, which was the whole reason for the stripdown in the first place!) the thing went from nothing to circa 12k revs immediately.
Removed the hand grip end, and started again, and this disappeared.
Adjusted at max at the grip end, however still does it - so it needs
screwing in more at the carb end to release the cable more. It's routed the same i think - however i know that the screw on the carb end is virtually all the way out - so hopefully if i wind this in tomorrow then it'll solve the reving problem!!

So i guess the motto is - if it doesnt work, leave it overnight (and most of the following day!) to 'settle', and charge the battery!!!

First place it'll be going (other than a road test) will be in for a tune, unless anyone can describe the proceedure, and it's nice and easy!!

Failing that, if anyone knows of a decent trophy mechanic that is great at tuning in the Midlands (UK) and not too expensive, please let me know!!

Thanks again to all
Paul

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'94 Trophy 900 triple

gamsa

There's no better way to learn than to do it yourself. There's plenty of help to be had on the forum here and in the Haynes manual. I would suggest - change oil, filter, check air filter, synchronise carbs, change fork oil, check head bearings, change brake fluid and coolant, change fuel and vacuum lines. All doable.

If you're feeling ambitious, heated grips and the screen upgrade described in an earlier post are worthwhile upgrades.

toibs

Thx Gamsa,

Did the oil/filter/brake fluid/coolant a few months back.
Changed the Fuel/Vacuum lines and air filter whilst i had it appart.
Fork oil was changed when i had the seals done in november (havent got the gear to do it myself!). Bearings were also checked.

Screen upgrade is on the cards in the next month or two, and all being well i'll get the carbs synched when i take her in for a tune up.

Heated grips are for pussies. I just have very thick gloves

Paul

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'94 Trophy 900 triple