Triumphrat

phpbiker · 06-09-2009, 10:34 PM

Hi Guys,

I was wondering if someone could advise me on service intervals. A Bike I may be about to buy needs a service its done 37K and past a service interval, I am told 36K is the service marker.

Does anyone know what this involves? And what the best way of keeping the costs down may be?

Perhaps Clearences?
Airbox? is there a cheap replacement for this?
Oil Filter? I've heard you need a special tool to change this?

Any other pointers would be great :-)

Trophy4 · 06-10-2009, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phpbiker

Hi Guys,

I was wondering if someone could advise me on service intervals. A Bike I may be about to buy needs a service its done 37K and past a service interval, I am told 36K is the service marker.

Does anyone know what this involves? And what the best way of keeping the costs down may be?

Perhaps Clearences?
Airbox? is there a cheap replacement for this?
Oil Filter? I've heard you need a special tool to change this?

Any other pointers would be great :-)

Valve Clearances are scheduled to be checked every 12k miles, but often don't need changing. If the valves were set at 24k, you're probably ok, but would be worth checking.

Airboxes are scheduled for replacement every 24k miles. They're pretty pricy, and it is possible to get a K&N filter element in the stock box if you're into modifying the stock airbox. Doesn't take long, but does take some mods.

Oil filter is probably the easiest to change. I change oil/filter every 3k miles, and would do it immediately on the purchase of a used bike, no matter what the records show. Only tools required for this are proper allen wrenches and metric sockets.

You may want to buy either the factory manual (about $85US) or the Clymer manual (about $45US). Used ones show up from time to time on E-bay.

Enjoy!

phpbiker · 06-10-2009, 09:42 PM

Thanks man..

Do you know if you need to rejet for a K&N Filter Replacement?

96trophy900 · 06-10-2009, 11:33 PM

I was bitten by the trophy bug when I saw a really clean example for sale three weeks ago. I did some searches to see what to look for and talked to the local Triumph dealer and decided to get it. It's a 96 with 26K miles and I get to pick it up this weekend.

The airbox replacement was a new one to my - why do the airboxes need to be replaced every 24K?

Is it an easy DIY replacement, moderate in difficulty, or just pay to get it done replacement.

Is the Clymer manual good or is it worth the extra money for the Triumph manual? I had a Clymer for one of my first bikes and it was fine but have no idea how consistent they are.

Trophy4 · 06-11-2009, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96trophy900

I was bitten by the trophy bug when I saw a really clean example for sale three weeks ago. I did some searches to see what to look for and talked to the local Triumph dealer and decided to get it. It's a 96 with 26K miles and I get to pick it up this weekend.

The airbox replacement was a new one to my - why do the airboxes need to be replaced every 24K?

Is it an easy DIY replacement, moderate in difficulty, or just pay to get it done replacement.

Is the Clymer manual good or is it worth the extra money for the Triumph manual? I had a Clymer for one of my first bikes and it was fine but have no idea how consistent they are.

Like all service lists, Triumphs are based on "Average Usage on Average Roads" If you follow the dealer recommendations, you'll find they are a bit on the conservative side. If you only ride on paved roads and avoid dust storms, you can probably get more than 24k out of an air filter. The factory air filtor is a good design for efficiency, but I'll bet the design engineer never had to replace one on a built bike!

Can you change it yourself? Sure! Just take your time, follow the manual(s), and don't get in any hurry. (IMO, the aircleaner should have been designed so you could change only the element, much like changing an air conditioner filter in your home).

I have both the Factory Manual and the Clymer book. Both are good. Clymer is written by someone who's actually doing the work, so the tips are a little better. Pictures could be a lot better. The Factory Manual is great, too, IMO, as the pictures are all very clean drawings/schematics, which gives me a good picture of how it all goes together.

YMMV

BlueTrophy · 06-13-2009, 03:54 PM

It is not the airbox that needs changing but the air filter. I just did mine with 16,000 miles and it needed it! I went to AutoZone for a K&N(item #TB-9091, I think) and they ordered one for me. Had it the next day for about $50. The only mod to the airbox NECESSARY is to cut two tabs off(instructions come with the K&N). Easily done with side cutters.
Since you will have the airbox out, I recommend modifying the cover. Just cut it in half vertically. I used a band saw and made a perfect cut. Then, you can change out only the element when you need to.This does not affect performance or the efficient operation of the filter. If you are concerned, a small bead of RTV along the seam will seal it yet allow you to get it apart again when you want to. I took mine in to have the carbs balanced and my mechanic checked the EGT and told me that no re-jet was necessary.
Good Luck!

Tim-

phpbiker · 06-13-2009, 07:51 PM

Thanks man..thats good advice. No Re-jet required.

As far as I can ascertain. If you go OEM the whole Airbox needs to be changed. But if you go K&N you get a marginal performance increase and the ability to change just the filter if required which it appears it never does ...

96trophy900 · 06-14-2009, 11:11 PM

Thanks bluetrophy good info - just thought it was Triumph's way of forcing parts sales by making it to expensive for replacement parts companies to make a replacement alternative. I'll definitely be doing this.

The 'new to me' trophy is in the garage waiting for some TLC before putting it on the road. One of the fork seals is blown - fork oil all down one side, on the caliper and rim.

Need to replace the tires, clean the carbs (the last owner only put 500 miles on it last season), will probably get the valves adjusted as it's coming up on the 24k mark anyway.

It was stored in a garage and well cared for, just not ridden much in the last couple of years.

Anything else that might need to be replaced or changed out now when things are open and apart? It fires up and runs fine right now aside from a sticky throttle cable I discovered....

narrowminded · 06-15-2009, 08:17 AM

While the tires are off check the brake pads. I'd just invest in new ones, mine gets new pads with every set of tires.
Some have added a chain oilers, I use a Loobman. They're a bit disconcerting in design but they're the only oiler that deposits oil on both sides of the sprocket and for around $30 and nothing vacuum related or electrical, I think it works just fine. Sure beats getting out the oil can every fill-up!
Consider adding rear lighting, a single 1157 running lite in the back just isn't enough, IMHO.
The side cases tend to leak in the rain.
Change out all the fluids. Brake, clutch, coolant, oil+filter.
While it's apart, since you're un-sticking the throttle cable, do the airbox mod and clean or replace the air filter.
Add-ons: Throttlemeister cruise control
Heated grips(if not already there of course) Hot Grips + foam grips.
Easy to install right over factory grips.
Seat heaters and seat modifications.
Added lighting(I've been rear ended while sitting at a light, I'm paranoid!)
Gen-Mar risers(if needed)
Hyabusa Brake Calipers
Windscreen(factory is awful, aren't there any wind tunnels in England!)

I'm putting a radio on mine. Haven't got it figured out yet, will post the result.

Just some suggestions.
My 900 has been put thru the ringer, dropped numerous times at stand still and once at 70 mph in the median of I-77S in morning rush hour while setting off with a buddy for North Carolina.
She runs like a trooper.
I think you'll enjoy yours.
Carry on!

Trophy4 · 06-15-2009, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by narrowminded

Consider adding rear lighting, a single 1157 running lite in the back just isn't enough, IMHO.

There should be 2 1157's in the taillight housing. I do agree, more lighting in the back is nice. I don't have any added lights, but I do wear the brightest reflective vest that I could find anywhere. It lights with just the slightest hint of light on it. You can also add reflective tapes (I recommend 3M reflective tape) on the back of the panniers and on the rear fender and topbox, if you use one. Be creative! Reflective tapes/clothing don't go out if, by chance, you lose the electrics while stopped at a corner (or going down the roadway).

YMMV