I've read lots of opinions on "proper break-in", and maybe this belongs in the tech section, but here goes:
Believe it or not my dealer recommended this type of break-in:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I did it (don't tell triumph) and got in a little triple-digit-time in within the first 100 miles. I didn't mess with the "oil change after the first 20 miles" though. Seems crazy and only time will tell the results, but she runs great (only just over 800 miles). I guess I won't know unless something catastrophic goes wrong, and I don't plan on buying another bonnie just for comparison purposes....

Any experts out there?

I couldnt readall the stuff in the post. I did the up & down w/ moderate accel on the 1st 200 mi.t hen I started running her up. @ 350 mi - I did the ton +15 mph. I figured if it was gonna break- it would happen then! It didnt & I changed the oil to full syn @ the proper time. She runs like a swiss watch & better every ride!! I was brought up on you run a new car like you are gonna drive it! If you knew what they do to a NEW engine @ the factory to see if it will hold together - it would make you shudder!! Easy for 200 mi then go for it. Dump the dino & you are good to go!! She will run better every ride up to 5-6000 mi. I still have the orig plugs & all. i checked them & they were rite on gap & all! These are GOOD motors!! They dont like LUGGING!!! Keep them in the mid rpm range. WOT if you feel the desire? The limiter will keep you safe!! Ride on & Safe!!!

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CAPT D

Scooterjunkie,

There are some on this forum that absolutely swear by this, and some that will tell you it is 100% wrong. This is a recipe for a very long, nasty, dragged out fight. There are two very important things I've learned from participating in this forum, 1.) How tenaciously people will stick to their opinions. 2.) Since it is an anonimous forum, some people get downright nasty if you disagree with what they have chosen to believe.

You've asked for input and opinions, and you rightly stated "I guess I won't know unless..." so here's a few respectful questions regarding this "new" method.

Read the article very thoroughly, it pertains to RACING engines for the most part.

Can we send this guy an email, and ask about long-term effects? How many daily street use motorcycle engines does he have with say 80,000 miles?

How many of our fellow forum riders who have subscribed to this method have long-term (80 to 100 K) engines to illustrate the benefits?

Believers always say "... and it runs great!" Assuming you are breaking in one bike at a time, compared to what?

He contradicts himself later in the article by saying only 80% of the break-in works his way, the final 20% takes a longer time. Huh? Where is he getting these figures.

How long has this guy been in business? He looks to be about 30 or so. Not that there is anything wrong with youth, but how did a person get so much experience in such a short career?

Note that at the end of the article, he lists how everyone else in the world is incorrect on all known engine related subject matter. and he has all the NEW answers. Sounds like a self-proclaimed genius. Red Flag. I would be a little sceptical.

Now, having said all that - this is my opinion, as I have no objective, scientific data, or three side-by-side test bikes with one as control to utilise. I have not collected data long-term, or over a varied basis. Therefore my opinion is subjective, and open to debate, which I heartily welcome. I absolutley love new technologies and methods, and have a 35 year engineering and research background, so this type of debate is what I live for.

Having used the "other" method, handed down from my father, he and I have run numerous street - not racing - cars up to 350K without engine rebuilds necessary (the bodies rusted out before the mechanicals failed)... (the cars, not ours!), and bikes up to 45K before selling privately, and to my knowledge the two bikes are still running. Long term overall maintenance and care are equally important to the break in methodology.

I am trained by profession to gather all the facts and data before making a calculated recommendation. A tried and true method is what I call 3/5. If 3 out of 5 subject related objective endeavors reach the same conclusion, you may have something to begin researching. If there are too many variables, and too many disagreements in methodology, then you are wasting valuable resources and should abort the project. So far I see one.

My summary - be skeptical, ask necessary questions. Nothing at all wrong with new ideas, but this is pretty unorthidox, so tread extremely carefully. Give self-proclaimed "experts" a wide path. When it comes to technology, learn the distinct difference between Objective and Subjective response. One is black and white fact, the other is speculative opinion. Technology is based upon proven, factual results.

In the end, you decide.

Most of all - have fun. Technology can be our friend... or foe.

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Bob

"If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the problem".

The fact is by the time an engine starts to show adverse signs of bad break in period the bike is in the hands of someone new. Like the previous poster said it's crazy to follow advice like this unless the guy has two identical bikes and runs the engine in using both philosophies....and then sees what they look like after say 100,000 miles.

I remember an article in a motor magazine that took two identicle New York taxis and changed the oil every 6000 miles in one and every 3000 in the other. They stripped the engines down and found no difference in actual wear.

Just mentioned this as I would have thought the opposite...I just wish someone would show us the evidence rather than hearsay.

There are rpm limits in breaking in the engine for very good reasons because there is much more to breaking in an engine than "seating the oil rings". There are lots of other engine parts that need to work a while so that rough edges and machining tolerances can smooth out. Running high rpm in any new engine is an Rx for problems-bad ones.

However, hard acceleration for a few seconds at a time in the first 500 miles at low speed works for all engines. This pressure does complete the seating of rings and smoothing other engine parts + transmission. It does not overheat the engine-the reason for short bursts at a time at low speeds. Also, if there is a system that needs to be adjusted-the issue is less likely to damage something.

Oil and filter change at 500 miles is a good idea for any engine to remove metal particles and again at 1K miles. Don't use synthetic oil until 1K miles so that the non-synthetic oil can promote break in (not as slick).

Heat is what kills engines and transmissions. New engines run hotter until the parts are worn enough to smooth up.

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It is a vanished world.... A transition has followed the horseman of the plains; a shapeless state, a condition of men and manners unlovely as that bald moment in the year when winter is gone and spring not come, and the face of nature is ugly...."The Vir

+1 To Flyingscott. This is very close to my method except I ran my Bonnie to 6000 Kms before changing to fully synth. As I have posted before, the first oil in the crankcase is for a "Rinse and Spit". It is more for initial break in and rinsing metal particles and bits of other materials out of the engine.

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Ashphalt is My Airbag

1968 chopped Bonneville
2001 Bonneville

Over here in the UK we have a weekly rag called Motor Cycle News.

A couple of years back one of their journalists had a brand new GSXR750 which he "broke in" according to the motoman method. He bragged alot about how it made more power blah blah blah.

It didn't last long though. A few (ok maybe 10) months later the motor was shot. When Suzuki took it to bits they pointed out all the main and big end bearings that were trashed due to poor break in.

In short the motoman method is fine for piston rings, but not for bearings.

I care far too much about the longevity of my bike to do it.

With apologies, something I failed to mention previous:

I also opine that the "Break-in" period does not pertain to, or focus upon the engine internals alone. Gently bringing the bike up to its limits provides time and wear to ascertain safely that the brakes, clutch, steering, alignment etc. are all installed and adjusted properly. Finding out the brake disc's aren't seating properly after the first ten minutes of ownership, while doing "the ton" would not be a pleasant experience. Are you sure the guy in the factory torqued down those wheel bolts properly? How much do you want to wager at 100 MPH? Do I smell fuel?

Just some thoughts.

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Bob

"If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the problem".

FlyingScott is right on here. You need cylinder pressure to seat the rings-his method is fine.
We just took apart a 675 motor with well over 5000 miles on it and there is still cross-hatch.

Well yeah..........I stripped down a Yam 850 motor a couple of months back. 40000 miles and it still has cross hatch on the bores.

I'd agree with everyhting Gob-ny-geay says there too.

Problem is, it's all opinion. And we all know what they're like don't we?