Triumphrat

andy_tt600 · 11-26-2008, 05:50 AM

My alternator/generator/stator is fried, so needed to test reg/rect to see if that is junk too.

Attempted to test my '02 TT600 reg/rect last night using the "cold" test from DEcosse's post in the tech compendium - but failed miserably. Maybe cos it was late at night and I was tired, maybe it was the zero celsius temp, maybe the TT and D650 wiring is different, or maybe I'm just thick, but I couldn't suss it.

At the R/R

My R/R has 5 wires into 1 connector block (I'll call it "#1") - 3 black (obviously the 3 phase AC input) and a black/red and black/white (obviously DC output). Black/red should be +ve and black/white -ve.

At connector block #1

3 black/blue wires from the loom (presumably from the alternator/generator/stator) connect to the black wires on the R/R.
A brown wire from connector block #2 connects to black/red wire. (+ve)
A black wire from connector block #2 connects to the black/white wire. (-ve)

At connector block #2

The brown wire disappears into the loom, as does the black wire.
3 yellow wires disappear into the loom. NOTHING CONNECTS TO THESE YELLOW WIRES.

So this is where I get confused with DEcosse's post as my wire colours are nothing like the D650 and I was expecting the yellow wires to have come from the generator and connect to the R/R!!!!!

What I did test was the 5 pins on the R/R connector (with the R/R unplugged).

With the multimeter (set to Ohms-tried on 20k, 200k & 2M) red probe on the black/white (-ve DC outlet) pin, I put the black probe on each of the 3 black/blue (AC input) pins. I got very similar readings (at each Ohm setting) for all 3 AC pins.

At this point it was midnight and I was v cold (I can hear the violins....), so I THINK when I tested the black/red pin against the 3 black/blue pins I got a "1" on the m/m. Does this mean open circuit and therefore R/R is junk?

So, just how do I test the R/R?????

Also, I gues I'll have to lift the tank and try and trace the 3 black/blue wires and the yellow wires to see which ones connect to the generator.

Cheers

Andy

Forgot to say that I tested the R/R whilst connectors plugged in (engine off). Got same DC voltage from testing across black/red wire and black/white wire as from direct battery test (12.6V). Battery had been on Optimate III charge and then stood for an hour.

andy_tt600 · 11-27-2008, 08:34 AM

Well I lifted the tank and discovered that the 3 black/blue wires are from the generator - as suspected.

The 3 yellow wires (that don't connect to the R/R disappear into the wiring loom - who knows what purpose they serve?

I have discovered a pretty definitive guide to testing the R/R at;

http://www.offwidth.co.uk/bike/gener...lt_finding.pdf

Moderators - perhaps this link should go in the technical compendium?

DEcosse · 11-28-2008, 03:09 PM

Throw up a pic Andy of your connectors if you could
Are you saying that there is a second plug with yellow wires that is just unconnected?

I'm just speculating but the three yellow wires may have been the original stator output wiring - on the big Daytonas there was a recall due to insufficent wriing gauge & Triumph supplied an auxiliary harness with bigger wires - the blue/black one.
Is your harness with the blue/black wires stand-aone, i.e. not running through the main harness? Likely may be the same recall. If so there would be a corresponding connector at the oppoiste end where it connects (or would have connected) to the stator output connector plug.

Regarding testing the R/R I would speculate that yours is toast given the picture of your stator, with mutiple windings fried, which is usually associated with that type of R/R failure of a shorted diode or SCR. Regardless of the colours of wires, you want to test each of the ac (stator) input against both the output & ground wires. Treat the R/R as an isolated device, completely disconnected from the bike. I'm suspecting you might find one of those shorted.

andy_tt600 · 12-01-2008, 09:25 AM

Hi DEcosse

Yep, there's definitely a second plug - I'll edit this post later and post a photo.

I reckon you're right about an auxilliary harness - The 3 black/blue wires connect from the generator in a "stand alone" harness to the second plug near the R/R.

I tested the R/R (disconnected) and got the following;

Multometer on 20M Ohm

Black probe on black/white (-ve ie earth/ground) output pin - red probe on each input in turn
1.47
1.47
1.47

Black probe on black/red output pin (+ve ie battery) - red probe on each input in turn
-2.18
-2.18
-2.18

Red probe on black/white (-ve ie earth/ground) output pin - black probe on each input in turn
all 3 start -1.1ish head to zero and +ve about 1.1

Red probe on black/red (+ve ie battery) output pin - black probe on each input in turn
all 3 show "1" -presumably this means "open circuit" no electrical connection?

[Apologies about my lack on electrical savvy - It's 25 years since I was in school, clearly daydreaming in the physics class!!]

I suppose this means my R/R is toast.

Cheers
Andy

DEcosse · 12-01-2008, 01:12 PM

No shorts Andy, and all three legs reading the same, so that is somewhat good news.
But that test can only tell you so much - i.e. if it would be shorted - but still no guarantee it is good however.
However, with no dead short present, it should be reasonably safe to test it after you replace your stator.
BUT IF IN ANY DOUBT over your ability to get the readiings correctly, you may be safer to replace the R/R too.
In any case, if you do go for it with the current R/R, then try to run with the minimum time required to simply check the output - any sign of an issue shut it down quick.

andy_tt600 · 12-01-2008, 06:20 PM

Cheers for all the advice, DEcosse.

I'll have a good long look and test at the weekend, when I've half a chance to fit the new stator.

Here's the photo of the auxilliary black/blue wiring loom (you can see the yellow wires on plug#2 on the left that don't connect to anything) - I wonder from what VIN/build date Triumph did the mod?