Triumphrat

tomsdad · 07-06-2008

Hi everyone. Just getting used to my 2006 D650. However I am a bit neurotic about the alarm..

I have (I think tracked the in line fuse down) The certificate of installation for the alarm had a note that the in line fuse was bike fuse number 4 and was 10A. Actually it seems to be fuse number 3 which is 10A. Fuse number 4 being 15A. When pulling this fuse, the alarm went off.

Question - does this mean that the 10A fuse I pulled (which set the alarm off) was in fact what they refer to as the in line fuse?

Removing this fuse in my garage was difficult enough. On the roadside would be difficult.

Question - is there such a thing as a fuse removal tool?

The next point sounds silly. I need to find where the physical alarm is fitted. I think I have located it in the pillion seat cowl housing. Mounted right up against the forward bulk head. It is bolted in in such a way that the rear seat bodywork would need to be removed to get the lid off the alarm unit. ( This was probably for security reasons?) If as the user manual says it gets "spiked" I would need to get at the alarm unit to de spike it.

Finally - I am worried to death about being stranded if the remote transmitter (keyfob) fails. The user guide talks of a PIN number to over ride such a situation, but I do not know what it is.

Question - can I reset the PIN without knowing the current PIN?
Question - Could it have a factory PIN?

Thanks for any help

Tomsdad

BombFactory · 07-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomsdad

Question - does this mean that the 10A fuse I pulled (which set the alarm off) was in fact what they refer to as the in line fuse?

Removing this fuse in my garage was difficult enough. On the roadside would be difficult.

Question - is there such a thing as a fuse removal tool?

The factory fuse box is not considered to be an 'in-line fuse.' The alarm installer could have tapped into #3's feed without using a fuse (a mistake if they did,) but there might also be a true in-line fuse down-current from the fuse box; thus, when you pull the #3 fuse it kills power to that fuse also. If you think the alarm unit is located under the tail fairing, I would surmise that the in-line fuse is there also if you cannot find it anywhere else; all this said, that would be a little bass ackward to put a fuse and key pad where the user cannot reach them without removing the tail fairings.

Yes, they do make a fuse pulling tool; many cars come with a plastic one located in their fuse box. Check your local parts supply house and see if they have one. If you apply gentle pulling force and lightly move the fuse back and forth lengthwise, the fuse will come out a lot easier.

As for your other questions regarding the alarm: you might want to contact the alarm manufacturer for that info.

tomsdad · 07-08-2008

Thanks for your help on that BombFactory. Definitely no other in line fuse that I can find. I have taken the bodywork off and looked everywhere. Seems they used the bike fuse as they stated on the installation certificate.

One thing you said troubles me a little. You mentioned a keypad. Could you explain what this is for?

Tomsdad

BombFactory · 07-09-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomsdad

One thing you said troubles me a little. You mentioned a keypad. Could you explain what this is for?

Tomsdad

Okay, so I had a chance to check out my TT600 manual and the fuse identifications. It looks like #3 fuse is an independent fuse labeled as 'alarm,' but I'm not sure if a D650 wiring harness is the same (I would imagine it is when it comes to the fuse positions, but not 100% sure.) So if the alarm comes off this fuse, you have no need for an in-line fuse and should be good to go.

I don't have any previous experience with the alarm you have, and I mentioned a keypad assuming that there would have to be one in order to use a pin to bypass the alarm. So maybe it has a keypad, maybe it doesn't, not sure?

BBDGriptonia · 07-09-2008

The PIN number is used by turning the key to on, then off, then back on again. This will start the alarm into manual PIN enter mode. The alarm will then begin to emit loud beeps which translate into the numbers of the PIN. Once a number of the PIN has been reached, you turn the ignition off, then back on to start the next number of the PIN and continue to enter the PIN

ie: turn ingnition on, then off, then on. Beeps begin. If you're PIN is 1234, you wait for the first signal beep, then turn ignition off, then on. now wait for two singalling beeps to signify the next number in the PIN. turn ignition off, then back on. Continue as appropriate
-This will not work if there was no PIN created prior.

The previous owner of the bike should have manually created the PIN, the alarm does NOT come with one pre-installed. I forget how to reset alarm if PIN already enterd. Ill look for my manual when i get home in the morrow!

*By the way - this info comes from a datatool alarm about 5 years newer, but from what i understand, it is based on the same system - hasn't changed much.

tomsdad · 07-09-2008

Youre information is quite correct as the PIN. This alarm had not had a personal PIN so I created the first one. The sequence for PIN overide in the case of transmitter failure is correct. This procedure is instead of the "key pad" so my panick is over.

I seem to be a bit neorotic as far as the alarm is concerned, never having had one before. But now I have played with it, identified all the bits and done a "dummy" PIN overide, I feel pretty confident that I am not going to be stranded.

The method of PIN overide is a bit complicated and has to be done in a certain sequence. I have printed off these instructions from DataTool website and kept a copy in the owners manual. If in say 9 months time I am "locked out" by the alarm, I would have forgotten how to overide it.

Now tell me I'm not neurotic..............

BTW what a great bike.

Thanks for all the help.

BBDGriptonia · 07-11-2008

Sorry, i completely spaced and did not check my manual (getting off work at 7am will do that). You know you can just remove the alarm. Use the PIN to deactivate, then just remove it from the connector (probably would have to cut the shrink wrap around it). Oh, but you would have to find or purchase the ground out fuse, cap, or whatever its called. Unfortunately the datatool site does not have installation instructions available, but again they are sitting in my friggin house! send me a PM to remind me if you really need to know what the part is called. You should be able to pick it off a wrecked bike, or wireharness from eBay pretty cheap.