Triumphrat

jackanway

Okay I am looking to change my sprockets and chain to a 47/15 conbination on a Speed four. I am contemplating doing the work myself because the quotes that I am getting are scary.

I think the most complicated work that I've done on my bike is changing the brake cables and rearsets.

How complicated would it be to change my sprockets and chain? Also is it true that I need a rivet tool? What else would I need to do the job? How much am I needing to spend on special tools? (Something to break the existing chain, rivet tool, etc.)

If it helps I am looking at AFAM sprockets (Steel) and a DID 525 X chain.

-J

pete2

You only need a rear stand and some regular tools. You can rivet the chain yourself using a hammer, something on the backside of the chain (another hammer for instance) and locking pliers. Lock the chain with the pliers, hold the other hammer firmly on the back of the chain and carefully tap the rivets (one at the time - you'll need to change the position of the pliers for the other rivet!) with the other hammer. Be sure not to hit the rivet too much, to ensure free chain movement. Just enough to widen the ends so that the plate holds in.

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R100Pilot

Just did the same job for the first time, and there's no reason you shoudn't do it yourself. But I'm gonna disagree with pete about the chain tool.

Sure, you could do it with a hammer, but why? Just get the chain tool (in fact, go ahead and get a combination breaker/riveter). It will make your life immensely easier.

The only other things you might want to consider aside from the rearstand are:

• Breaker bar. You will need this to get the front sprocket off. Be patient - it will come loose. It helps to have a friend hold the rear brake, but it is possible to do it yourself.

• Torque wrench. Get a big one. The front sprocket is 132 nm and the rear axle is 110nm.

• 36mm socket for the sprocket nut (I forget what size for the axle nut, but you'll need one o' those too).

Yeah, all this costs money - but better to put the money in your toolbox than in the dealer's pocket.

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"I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me."
— HST

pete2

Lol true but he asked if he needs a rivet tool No he doesn't.

However, I agree with you on the tool, it's a lot easier. I bought one for myself last summer. Cost a bunch, but yea... it's pretty **** handy

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jackanway

Is there a specific chain breaker/rivet tool I should get? Does it maker that it is an O-ring chain that I will break and a X-ring chain that I will install?

redl1nerpm

don't forget to replace that wear strip "while your in there"

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Yak

You don't neccessarily need a rivet tool if you go with a clip-type master link. I know, I know, a lot of people swear by only using a rivet-type link. However, there are many riders that have thousands of miles on clip links with no problems. One recommendation I have read is to "glue" the clip down with silicone. Either way I dont think you can really go wrong. All my dirtbikes have clip links and those chains get a lot of "snapping" abuse, never mind the grime and dirt, and the clips are solid. Never broke a chain.

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Will

The rear axle nut is 27mm. It seems to be a Triumph standard for double sided swingarms.

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R100Pilot

Yeah, you can save some money by just getting the chain breaker and using a clip master link. I went ahead and got the combination gizmo.

http://www.pitposse.com/poheduch.html

But I still just used a clip master link. It can seem like an intimidating job at first, but it was pretty simple.

Something else that was helpful was this series of videos:



This ain't bad either, but is a little blurry:


Helps to see it done.

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"I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me."
— HST

jackanway

Thanks for the info and the video clips...
Now is it okay to use the clip on link for track use?