Triumphrat

Will

This will also work for a Speed 4. Probably also a Daytona 600, but it comes direct from the TT600 shop manual (with some editorial comments):

Bunch of dire warnings about death and disaster if you don't do it right...

1. Support the motorcycle on a paddock stand such that it does not prevent removal of the wheel.

More dire warnings about death and disaster if you don't do it right...

2. Remove the screws securing the rear brake hose to the swinging arm.

3. Remove the nut from the rear wheel spindle. (I have been using a 27 mm socket on it. The 27 mm socket is a little loose, but has not rounded the nut so it must be about right. It couldn't be Whitworth, could it?!!)

4. Support the wheel and withdraw the wheel spindle. (If you don't support the wheel, it will be damn tough to pull the wheel spindle out! That is the long "bolt" that sticks through the wheel and into the other swingarm. Remember how you supported it, because putting it back in is even harder if you don't have it aligned.)

5. Raise the brakd caliper and carrier and rolle the wheel forward until the chain can be detached from the rear sprocket.

6. Withdraw the wheel and collect teh flanged spacer from the right hand side and the plain spacer from the left. (Good thing to remember which is which. Not that I would know that it doesn't work if you don't remember, and not that I would know how frustrating it can be, especially when the sun goes down and you can't see what you are doing, and... well, never mind...)

7. Place the wheel on wooden blocks with the drive sprocke uppermost. (This is more important that you might think- the disk bends very easily, so don't drop your wheel on it. Yeah, I know, the rear wheel isn't on the ground when you have the anchors seriously out, but it sucks when the disk is warped when you are just drifting up to a stop sign.)

8. If required, remove the rear brake disk and discard the disc bolts. (See above. Don't say I didn't warn you!)

9. Remove the final drive as described in the rear suspension section. (You want to know about that? Gosh, it would have been convenient if it was on the same page, but it isn't.)

INSTALLATION:

1. Thoroughly clean and degrease the brake disk.

2. Fit the brake disk and tighten new disk bolts to 22 Nm.

3. Refit the final drive assembly as described in the rear suspension section. (One would think that reversing the "remove rear wheel" instructions would work, and one would be right.

4. Position the wheel within the swinging arm and refit the chain to the final drive sprocket.

5. Position the rear brake caliper and carrier into its correct location. Align the slot in the carrier with the boss on the swinging arm.

6. Refit the wheel sleeves, flanged spacer to the right hand side, flange facing outwards, and plain spacer to the left.

7. Lift the rear wheel into position (easier said than done in the driveway with blocks of wood and help from a 12 year old apprentice hack), aligning the wheel, caliper carrier and swinging arm.

8. Fit the wheel spindle with the threaded end facing to the left. (Easy once you have mastered step 7.)

9. Keeping the chain adjuster blocks in contact with the adjuster bolts, tighten the wheel spindle nut to 110 Nm. (That is about armstrong torque, as long as you have a cheater bar.)

10. Remove paddock stand.

11. Check operation of the rear brake.

12. Place motorcycle on its side stand. (You might think about making this step 11, unless you like scratches on your plastic.)

13. Check and, if necessary, adjust the chain.

14. Do this: :-g Can't stop with step 13.

OK, now that you can remove and replace the rear wheel, the next step is dealing with the sprocket.

The shop manual doesn't really give much of an explanation of the removal and replacement of the sprocket itself. It does talk about the removal, inspection and replacement of the cush drive. I assume that your cush drive is sufficiently new that it is no an issue. What you really need is the torque: 55 Nm- rear sprocket to cush drive.

I hope this helps, and I really hope I didn't forget anything. The shop manual is really cheap if you have the time to actually use it. If you pay $65 for the manual, and pay $45 (low end) for shop time, the manual pays for itself in a big hurry!

__________________
Will
It's a squid thing. You wouldn't understand.
SponsorHouse profile

Will

This will also work for a Speed 4. Probably also a Daytona 600, but it comes direct from the TT600 shop manual (with some editorial comments):

Bunch of dire warnings about death and disaster if you don't do it right...

1. Support the motorcycle on a paddock stand such that it does not prevent removal of the wheel.

More dire warnings about death and disaster if you don't do it right...

2. Remove the screws securing the rear brake hose to the swinging arm.

3. Remove the nut from the rear wheel spindle. (I have been using a 27 mm socket on it. The 27 mm socket is a little loose, but has not rounded the nut so it must be about right. It couldn't be Whitworth, could it?!!)

4. Support the wheel and withdraw the wheel spindle. (If you don't support the wheel, it will be damn tough to pull the wheel spindle out! That is the long "bolt" that sticks through the wheel and into the other swingarm. Remember how you supported it, because putting it back in is even harder if you don't have it aligned.)

5. Raise the brakd caliper and carrier and rolle the wheel forward until the chain can be detached from the rear sprocket.

6. Withdraw the wheel and collect teh flanged spacer from the right hand side and the plain spacer from the left. (Good thing to remember which is which. Not that I would know that it doesn't work if you don't remember, and not that I would know how frustrating it can be, especially when the sun goes down and you can't see what you are doing, and... well, never mind...)

7. Place the wheel on wooden blocks with the drive sprocke uppermost. (This is more important that you might think- the disk bends very easily, so don't drop your wheel on it. Yeah, I know, the rear wheel isn't on the ground when you have the anchors seriously out, but it sucks when the disk is warped when you are just drifting up to a stop sign.)

8. If required, remove the rear brake disk and discard the disc bolts. (See above. Don't say I didn't warn you!)

9. Remove the final drive as described in the rear suspension section. (You want to know about that? Gosh, it would have been convenient if it was on the same page, but it isn't.)

INSTALLATION:

1. Thoroughly clean and degrease the brake disk.

2. Fit the brake disk and tighten new disk bolts to 22 Nm.

3. Refit the final drive assembly as described in the rear suspension section. (One would think that reversing the "remove rear wheel" instructions would work, and one would be right.

4. Position the wheel within the swinging arm and refit the chain to the final drive sprocket.

5. Position the rear brake caliper and carrier into its correct location. Align the slot in the carrier with the boss on the swinging arm.

6. Refit the wheel sleeves, flanged spacer to the right hand side, flange facing outwards, and plain spacer to the left.

7. Lift the rear wheel into position (easier said than done in the driveway with blocks of wood and help from a 12 year old apprentice hack), aligning the wheel, caliper carrier and swinging arm.

8. Fit the wheel spindle with the threaded end facing to the left. (Easy once you have mastered step 7.)

9. Keeping the chain adjuster blocks in contact with the adjuster bolts, tighten the wheel spindle nut to 110 Nm. (That is about armstrong torque, as long as you have a cheater bar.)

10. Remove paddock stand.

11. Check operation of the rear brake.

12. Place motorcycle on its side stand. (You might think about making this step 11, unless you like scratches on your plastic.)

13. Check and, if necessary, adjust the chain.

14. Do this: :-g Can't stop with step 13.

OK, now that you can remove and replace the rear wheel, the next step is dealing with the sprocket.

The shop manual doesn't really give much of an explanation of the removal and replacement of the sprocket itself. It does talk about the removal, inspection and replacement of the cush drive. I assume that your cush drive is sufficiently new that it is no an issue. What you really need is the torque: 55 Nm- rear sprocket to cush drive.

I hope this helps, and I really hope I didn't forget anything. The shop manual is really cheap if you have the time to actually use it. If you pay $65 for the manual, and pay $45 (low end) for shop time, the manual pays for itself in a big hurry!

__________________
Will
It's a squid thing. You wouldn't understand.
SponsorHouse profile

Will

This will also work for a Speed 4. Probably also a Daytona 600, but it comes direct from the TT600 shop manual (with some editorial comments):

Bunch of dire warnings about death and disaster if you don't do it right...

1. Support the motorcycle on a paddock stand such that it does not prevent removal of the wheel.

More dire warnings about death and disaster if you don't do it right...

2. Remove the screws securing the rear brake hose to the swinging arm.

3. Remove the nut from the rear wheel spindle. (I have been using a 27 mm socket on it. The 27 mm socket is a little loose, but has not rounded the nut so it must be about right. It couldn't be Whitworth, could it?!!)

4. Support the wheel and withdraw the wheel spindle. (If you don't support the wheel, it will be damn tough to pull the wheel spindle out! That is the long "bolt" that sticks through the wheel and into the other swingarm. Remember how you supported it, because putting it back in is even harder if you don't have it aligned.)

5. Raise the brakd caliper and carrier and rolle the wheel forward until the chain can be detached from the rear sprocket.

6. Withdraw the wheel and collect teh flanged spacer from the right hand side and the plain spacer from the left. (Good thing to remember which is which. Not that I would know that it doesn't work if you don't remember, and not that I would know how frustrating it can be, especially when the sun goes down and you can't see what you are doing, and... well, never mind...)

7. Place the wheel on wooden blocks with the drive sprocke uppermost. (This is more important that you might think- the disk bends very easily, so don't drop your wheel on it. Yeah, I know, the rear wheel isn't on the ground when you have the anchors seriously out, but it sucks when the disk is warped when you are just drifting up to a stop sign.)

8. If required, remove the rear brake disk and discard the disc bolts. (See above. Don't say I didn't warn you!)

9. Remove the final drive as described in the rear suspension section. (You want to know about that? Gosh, it would have been convenient if it was on the same page, but it isn't.)

INSTALLATION:

1. Thoroughly clean and degrease the brake disk.

2. Fit the brake disk and tighten new disk bolts to 22 Nm.

3. Refit the final drive assembly as described in the rear suspension section. (One would think that reversing the "remove rear wheel" instructions would work, and one would be right.

4. Position the wheel within the swinging arm and refit the chain to the final drive sprocket.

5. Position the rear brake caliper and carrier into its correct location. Align the slot in the carrier with the boss on the swinging arm.

6. Refit the wheel sleeves, flanged spacer to the right hand side, flange facing outwards, and plain spacer to the left.

7. Lift the rear wheel into position (easier said than done in the driveway with blocks of wood and help from a 12 year old apprentice hack), aligning the wheel, caliper carrier and swinging arm.

8. Fit the wheel spindle with the threaded end facing to the left. (Easy once you have mastered step 7.)

9. Keeping the chain adjuster blocks in contact with the adjuster bolts, tighten the wheel spindle nut to 110 Nm. (That is about armstrong torque, as long as you have a cheater bar.)

10. Remove paddock stand.

11. Check operation of the rear brake.

12. Place motorcycle on its side stand. (You might think about making this step 11, unless you like scratches on your plastic.)

13. Check and, if necessary, adjust the chain.

14. Do this: :-g Can't stop with step 13.

OK, now that you can remove and replace the rear wheel, the next step is dealing with the sprocket.

The shop manual doesn't really give much of an explanation of the removal and replacement of the sprocket itself. It does talk about the removal, inspection and replacement of the cush drive. I assume that your cush drive is sufficiently new that it is no an issue. What you really need is the torque: 55 Nm- rear sprocket to cush drive.

I hope this helps, and I really hope I didn't forget anything. The shop manual is really cheap if you have the time to actually use it. If you pay $65 for the manual, and pay $45 (low end) for shop time, the manual pays for itself in a big hurry!

__________________
Will
It's a squid thing. You wouldn't understand.
SponsorHouse profile

This is great stuff Will! I haven't had to pull my rear wheel yet, but I'm sure it will have to be done sooner or later. Doesn't sound too hard - not much worse than on my '71 tiger, although the Tiger does have a center stand. Thanks again.

This is great stuff Will! I haven't had to pull my rear wheel yet, but I'm sure it will have to be done sooner or later. Doesn't sound too hard - not much worse than on my '71 tiger, although the Tiger does have a center stand. Thanks again.

This is great stuff Will! I haven't had to pull my rear wheel yet, but I'm sure it will have to be done sooner or later. Doesn't sound too hard - not much worse than on my '71 tiger, although the Tiger does have a center stand. Thanks again.

Will.
Thats why we don't change tires and have pit stops in races :hammer: .
With two of us it still takes 1 min/38 sec. :tasty:
John

Will.
Thats why we don't change tires and have pit stops in races :hammer: .
With two of us it still takes 1 min/38 sec. :tasty:
John

Will.
Thats why we don't change tires and have pit stops in races :hammer: .
With two of us it still takes 1 min/38 sec. :tasty:
John