Figuring out your gas-light does (or doesn't) is definitely no fun. I was looking into the exact same thing. What I found out was that the gas light indicator comes on with about 1/2 a US gallon left in the 4.5 gallon take (I put about 4 gallons back in). There's an indicator switch inside the tank that can be replaced for a not some pawtry $175: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts...ctrical-equipment/o/m17604sch566045#sch566023
I would check your fuses first, then your indicator light bulb (maybe can be tested via TuneECU? I'm not completely sure), before going the route of replacing that switch.
I'll check fuses. I found that switch last night while on the side of the road waiting for gas haha. I called the dealership if there is anything I can to to pulse all the lights on. They told me they can do a electrical diagnostic for $150 haha, I rather just buy the fuse and hope it fixed it.
how many miles/Km did you travel when the bike stopped..?
One positive outlook on this situation is at least you now know the total amount of Miles/km that can be traveled... and in future fill up at around 20 before, this way you will never run out again...
That sucks...
how many miles/Km did you travel when the bike stopped..?
One positive outlook on this situation is at least you now know the total amount of Miles/km that can be traveled... and in future fill up at around 20 before, this way you will never run out again...
You can check the error codes using "TUNE ECU" if you don't have it get it (its free) the cable will cost about $20
On the D600 the error code (DTC's) is "P0460 Fuel level sensor circuit malfunction"
also you could remove the fuel assembly and check that the Fuel sender has not dropped from its sitting location.
As an aside, I don't think it's a good policy to rely on the fuel warning light for knowing when to refuel. I use one of my Bonnie's trip odometers to keep track of the mileage between fueling. I zero it out when I fill up. I know I'd better be getting fuel sometime soon when it gets about 130 miles on it. And yes, I know that leaves me a useable reserve. I can watch the odometer miles adding up, so I know my system is working. Using my system, I will never be taken by surprise by an empty gas tank. If I ever run out of fuel, it will be because I intentionally over extended.
Fixed the Tune Ecu issue by flashing a more up to date map. Low fuel light fixed by ordering that mustang/mercury cougar resister and sodering it into the stock triumph plug.
Sort of. I started it up, went for a ride, and when I parked the bike it puked oil. So I have a breather seal and the cover seal otw along with a new radiator cap due to the reservoir overflowing sometimes even though its filled to min.
The reservoir will sometimes overflow if there's air in the cooling system. You may not need a new radiator cap. Start by "burping" the cooling system. If you have a rear stand, put the bike on the rear stand. You have to be able to access the radiator cap and hoses on the left side of the bike, so removing bodywork that's in the way is necessary. I probably don't have to tell you that. Then, remove the cap with the bike mostly level. Squeeze the top coolant hose a few times. You may see bubbles coming out and see the coolant level go down. If not, that doesn't mean you are done. Now start the bike, and with the motor running and coolant circulating, do the same thing. Keep doing this and keep adding coolant when the level drops until you get no more air and the coolant just overflows when you squeeze the hose.
There's a bleed valve somewhere, but burping the system worked well enough for me that I never bothered to find it or use it.
I will definitely do it, but I ordered a new cap as it was $10 from bikebandit and I was getting the breather seals. Its a 2003 speed for so no bodywork, but the radiator cap won't hurt replacing on a 13 year old bike. I was planning on flushing the whole system when I put the new cap on the bike.
Also what kind of rear and front stands would I need to buy for the bike? I was hoping to grab some of craigslist because I will be storing the bike for winter.
The rear stand has to work without spools, since Triumph didn't put any kind of provision for those on the swingarm. Other than that, whatever you find that is sturdy enough and works is fine. If you are going to be using the stands all the time, higher quality stands like Pit Bull are a better idea. I had a set from some other company I can't remember now, but those went with the race bike when I sold it. The ones I have now are Pit Bull.
For winter storage, you probably don't need to spend quite as much. Once you have them and they are paid for, that's it, though, so there's something to be said for buying good quality stands.
Same - whatever you find that's got the ability to adjust to the forks is good. If you are using the stand for more than just storage and/or wheel removal, you will want one that has a pin that goes into the bottom of the headstock. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
I hate to be thread revival guy but I just did a random check of my fuel warning system and lost. Just did 171 mi before mine called it quits on the interstate.
Looks like I get to run the tests as well.
do a little digging/research. it most likely is the fuel level resistor. it is mentioned a couple posts up. oem triumph part is stupid expensive, the one mentioned is for an older mustang/cougar. but it works.
I used to get 180(ish) miles out of a tank almost regularly. Up to about 2006. That is roughly when we were forced to start burning this corn liquor crap. Since then been steady 140 miles to a tank.
Yea,. I figured I may be an anomaly. About 100 of it was a constant 75mph on the turnpike. I was surprised too.. I'll probably fill up a little sooner next time.
A another alternative is to purchase the fuelbot.. it calculates s from your injectors and speed sensors. Its a fantastic product..
I have posted it in this section and also in the triples..
Simple install, and now i never judge as i know exactly how far i have left..
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