This is the same I can pretty much assume for the TT600 and Speed Four. My bike is an 01 TT600. I found out this is a pretty expensive repair at the stealer and yet its something which is very easy to do by yourself. If your like me and have a lot of experience working on cars but never bikes its nice to see these types of things done. And if you have little to no experience you can do it too with basic hand tools. Dealers seem to charge a lot for our bikes especially so hopefully my contribution can keep your wallet thicker. It always helps to have the service manual, so if you don't, go buy one.
Anyway my bike wasn't charging and after testing the wires coming out of the stator cover (like your cars alternator) with a voltmeter I realized it wasn't supplying enough juice. The early TT600 has a weak 27.5 amp stator, and you can either buy a new one of these or you can upgrade to the later Speed Four 33 amp. I bought a used one from an 03 S4 on eBay for $90 shipped. This decision may be hard for some, but a brand new oem one is over $400.. You may not necessarily need the rotor but after I removed my engine cover I found my rotor was damaged so I bought one of those from someone parting a bike for $145 shipped, and these are apparently over $700 new so its your choice but as long as the rotor looks clean you should be fine. Heres how my old damaged rotor looked:
You'll want a new gasket for the stator cover which is about $20 and some silicone and dielectric grease. Then you'll need the puller if your changing your rotor which is Triumph part number T3880365. This is a special tool that threads onto the rotor and then pushes it out. I tried everything including my automotive pullers to get it off but it wont budge without the proper puller (even using the puller it takes some force). It took my local stealer 2.5 weeks from the time I ordered so I'd advise people to get it online. I found it on bikebandit.com for about 20 dollars less than the stealer. Go to their site, click on oem parts for Triumph, select the bike, scroll down on the right to "service tools" and click that (its number 14 the alternator housing puller). Wish I would've got it there.. Theres also a tool to hold the rotor from spinning which your remove it but I found a way to get by without it. Otherwise you just need some basic hand tools.
First unhook your battery and drain your oil. You don't have to drain your oil but some will seep out if you don't (it helps cool the stator) and you'll have to add a quart or so more than likely. So why not just change it.. Remove the left side fairing, all allen bolts, and your turn signal connections to get it out of the way. Then remove the stator cover. Its just a bunch of 8 mm bolts.
Unhook the cable coming out of the stator cover at the connection about 6 inches away. Now you can pull the cover off. Keep in mind the stator comes out attached to this cover and because of the magnets it takes some force to get off. My old stator was pretty scorched and scored from rubbing the rotor (shouldn't hit the rotor). Its simply removing the 3 small bolts attaching it to the cover and then another small bolt attaching the cable bracket to the cover. Heres a comparison of the 33 vs 27.5 amp
You'll notice they look identical and swap without any sort of modification. Attach the new one. The bolts for it are supposed to be 12 NM so they aren't extremely tight. At this point if your rotor looks good put the cover and fairing back on, fill your oil and your finished. If you need to get the rotor off you have a little more work to do.
Now you need something to hold the rotor while you unbolt it. If you don't buy the special tool you'll need something else. This may sound bad but I placed a screwdriver in between the top of the casing and the gears which simply stopped it from moving. This didn't harm anything. Once you have that bolt off you need to use the puller tool to get the rotor out. It just threads onto the rotor and then you hold it still with a wrench while you use an impact gun or your socket with a long handle to tighten the center and push it out. It took a lot more force than I thought at the end.
Now you'll need the gear on the back for your new rotor (if it doesn't already have one). It simply pulls off the old one and you push it on the new one.
Now bolt the new rotor back on. 105 NM was the torque for this.
Next silicone both sides of the gasket and put it in place on the engine. Put your cover back on, torque the bolts to 9 NM. Plug the connector back into the bike after you've put dielectric grease in the connector, put your fairing back on, fill the bike with oil and hook the battery back up. That's it!
[ This message was edited by: redl1nerpm on 2007-07-10 01:31 ]
Linear Mode
