Triumphrat

Ryan_TT · 06-17-2007

So I acquired a 2001 TT with 1700 mi on the clock. The bike runs great, until it reaches operating temp (about 170-ish). At that point, if I close the throttle, it acts as though I have just hit the kill switch. It just dies. I can restart, but it is hard starting, and if I keep the throttle opened to about 2k it stays running.

Off to the dealer I go.

Bike has been at the dealer for 3 weeks now, and no hope in sight of repair. The said they checked everything they can think of, including the IAC and various sensors and maps. It has the Triumph carbon can, and they have loaded the right maps for that can, to no avail. They have contacted Triumph Factory support with all of the data they can muster, and the reply they have received is to change the CO level and to swap out the plugs for hotter ones.

Any input from you is greatly appreciated, because to say the least, I am frustrated.

By the way, Triumph Corporate's customer support blows.

Thanks, Ryan

Yak · 06-17-2007

TPS maybe?

Will · 06-17-2007

TPS is my guess as well. If you touch the throttle when you start the bike, it resets the throttle position sensor to "closed" at whatever point the throttle was when the bike started. When you close the throttle all the way, it thinks it is past closed and the bike dies. The dealership wouldn't find any problems, and probably wouldn't be able to replicate the problem if the throttle postition sensor is the issue. Ask the dealership to check the throttle position sensor to make sure it is OK, and then try riding it using the no hands on the throttle starting technique. Coming from a carburetted bike, it took me a while to learn to trust the bike to start without any help from my right hand, but it is what you have to do.

Ryan_TT · 06-17-2007

They can replicate the issue, that is why I am confused. They say that the FI has a two part map. The first part of the map tells the bike how to run when cold, and the second tells the bike how to run when hot. They say the problem is occurring when the bike switches from the cold map to the hot map.

I think they said they want to switch the plug to a CRK8 (or some plug with an 8 in it) (I was irate at the time, so it is a bit fuzzy) and set the CO to +2.

Does this make sense to anyone??

--Ryan--

hardboild · 06-18-2007

i agree with will but my bike can fail as well under the appropriate conditions as well. i remapped my bike for a D&D can, which does NOT like cooler, colder conditions on certain days here in the Northwest. The engine can come to temp and fail, typically gliding to a stop sign - the map is to restrictive. If i switch out to the stock can everything is fine...

my .02 anyway...wouldn't hurt to see what happens with regular stock.

or you could just sell it and get a 675!

ukilme · 06-18-2007

Quote:

On 2007-06-18 09:00, hardboild wrote:
i agree with will but my bike can fail as well under the appropriate conditions as well. i remapped my bike for a D&D can, which does NOT like cooler, colder conditions on certain days here in the Northwest. The engine can come to temp and fail, typically gliding to a stop sign - the map is to restrictive. If i switch out to the stock can everything is fine...

my .02 anyway...wouldn't hurt to see what happens with regular stock.

or you could just sell it and get a 675!

Ditto, but it does not happened to often with me and I have a Triumph can

Will · 06-18-2007

If you have an aftermarket can on the bike, it leans out too much under certain circumstances. You probably get some surging and lumpiness at low revs, too. Increasing the CO setting will help richen things up and should help a lot. I don't quite know what they mean by a two part map. Maybe there are parts of the map TuneBoy doesn't get into. If so, I don't know anything about them. I can tell you for sure there is a warmup sequence with richening values that decrease over time as the motor warms. It is an overlay on the fuel map. Maybe that is what the dealer is referring to.

BinarySpeed4 · 06-18-2007

My ex-local dealer (bike is still nearer there since my move) seems to think there is no need to change my CO value to be a bit richer no matter how much I demand.

Could this be done with normal tools or is this a computer thing?

There's not too many other local dealers without a good amount of highway miles, which is fine, but work has me slammed was hoping the place I bought it from would help.

Zed · 06-19-2007

Strangely this happened to me on the way home yesterday. My bike is a bog standard 2002 TT600. No additions/exhausts, etc. It's done 14k miles.

The described problem happened to me once about 3 years ago when I was dowshifting after a 20 mile motorway blast, and was decelerating to come off the motorway. Was doing about 50mph and it cut out.

Anyway, hadn't happened since, until yesterday, but I did think it might happen, because.....

Started the bike at work, got a couple of junctions to go through, so am pretty familiar with the fuel injection/temperature settings steps (it chugs a bit), until heated up. But whilst at the traffic lights, I could tell that it was idling at lower revs than normal. About 15 miles later whilst slowing down at a junction it cut out.

I refuelled about 1 mile from my house, and on starting the bike it seemed to be idling ok.
I'm in the car today, but I suspect the bike will be ok next I get it out. I suspect Will's on the right track.

Ryan_TT · 06-20-2007

Well, it is fixed. here is the outcome...

My wallet is alot lighter, but they set the CO +2, and replaced the plugs with a hotter CK8R plug.