Triumphrat

rockhopper1998 · 09-04-2006, 10:05 PM

I recently put SS brake lines on the fron of my S4, and now I am having problems with the lever being soft and it seems to be getting worse, has anyone else had this problem or have any ideas? and yes brakes are bled, that has been checked.

Will · 09-04-2006, 11:40 PM

How old are your pads? Also, are you sure you got all the connections and banjo bolts good and tight?

rockhopper1998 · 09-05-2006, 12:20 AM

pads are worn but fine, everything is tight

helotaxi · 09-05-2006, 11:16 AM

Sound like you still have an air bubble in the line somewhere. Try bleeding them again now that you have had them together for awhile. The bubble might have worked its way to somwhere that it might be more prone to come out.

doodledog · 09-05-2006, 12:39 PM

you could also try holding the lever back to the bar overnight with a strap, this lets any bubbles come back up the system into the res, question though, as the original lines are already steel with a plastic covers did you change them just for looks or did you have a problem?

rustbucket · 09-05-2006, 02:49 PM

Gonna jump in slightly OT on this - I'm having the same problem with my brakes - the power is there, but I can pull the lever to the bar, and the feel of the brakes sucks.

Doing the overnight trick, would you open the res to let out the pressure the next morning? bleed them againg from the bottom? Is there somewhere else to bleed them from?

09-05-2006, 03:45 PM

This kind of problem is frequently associated with air bubbles trapped around the seals in the master cylinder.

AFAIK traditional cures are
1.strap the lever back to the bars (all nipples etc left tight) this opens the 'bleed-back' port between the master cylinder seals and the overnight temperature changes work with gravity to get your bubble out

2. pull the lever back & vibrate :yayyy: it for a few minutes :yayyy: then operate smoothly & repeat 5 or so times then tap all along the brake lines (with a 12mm spanner or similar) then repeat the vibrating :yayyy: . this is meant to shake out the more stubborn bubbles.

3. Use a suction brake bleeder to suck a lot of fluid through & wash the bubbles out DOWN-WARDS :-g

4. take the brake system off & hang it up so the calipers are at the top before you start bleeding and let gravity help to bleed the bubbles out. Obvious but very hard work.
:knkknk:

5. If you still get small bubbles at the master cylinder replace the master cyl seals (& piston usually) as the bubbles are frequently being sucked in between the seals as the piston returns. This is more expensive than 1 & 2 and easier than 4 :knkknk:

Anyone know any other solutions?

good luck

Jon

Agkistrodon · 09-05-2006, 03:47 PM

with the leaver trick no you dont need to open it. I bet he switched to SS lines to take out the piggy back line. on the stock lines one goes to the right caliper then one "piggy backs from the right caliper to the left. after market lines go from the lever to each caliper indipendantly. this way if you lose one side your other side still works. I have never bled the breaks on my TT but I think I read somewhere that you can take the caliper off and bleed it with the exit facing up.