ok guys, im not on here often enough which i apologise for, but i do need some help, i had a very low speed spill on ice the other day (stupid i know but thats something else) the bike is rideable, runs perfectly fine etc and has been used once or twice since. however today (it IS -1 outside) the bike wont start properly, i can hear the relay clicking quite loudly but theres no attempt to start, i charged the battery on the optimate, and after a 30 min charge it fired, i ran the bike for 5-10 mins, turned it off and now it wont start again, this is the first time this has ever happened, and also the clocks keep turning themselves off, occasionally displaying no speed and sometimes just flickering, im guessing its all linked as it started at the same time, i also have a video which i have made which MAY help.....
It sounds like a power problem or bad earth connection from that video clip.
Is the battery getting a good charge from the alternator/stator ?
Time for some multi meter testing i'd say
That fast clicking sounds like the starter struggling with low voltage,same with the clocks but bad earth could also tribute to that.
as far as i can tell the battery has been fine, its never had any noticeable charging or power issues before and as said, its a very recent problem, how would i go about testing the stator? ive never really done much to the triumph, the old bandit was far easier to screw about with
It would balso be good to check the earth point on the engine block. You will have to take the tank off for this as well. Jut follow the large black lead from the negative terminal off the battery. I also found that the bolt that held this connection at the engine was shorter than the thread in the block, and the threads strip very easily (common problem!). I just got a longer bolt!
hopefully this will get you started and find the problem. D'Ecosse is a great wealth of information on this forum and may chime in!
ok ive tested the battery as per the three tests outlined in that thread, on the thrid test, the battery is holding an exactly 12v charge whilst running, even whilst revs are increased/decreased, im going to let in run for a while and see what the results are, but im guessing this is a charging system fault?
after being left to warm volts had dropped to 11.8 but when revved would go up to 12.2v if this helps anyone in saying yes its a charging issue for definite
I would say Yes you do have a charging problem.
There should be at the very least 13v from alt/stator when engine is running
When the volts dropped to 11.8,that shows that the battery was draining and not charging.
Sounds like the beginnings of a charging issue, how old is the battery? The flashing clock is defiantly the battery not holding a charge to provide enough juice to the clock.
not 100% on the age of the battery but ive used the optimate on it to determine its charge quality etc. and its all coming back fine, battery has been perfect for ages, though the flashing clock thing has been intermittent for probably about 2 months, but never this bad, only usually once in a blue moon, which is it more likely to be? stator or reg rec? and where is the reg rec located on these bikes?
quick question, what would be a possible replacement stator, it looks like the honda cbr600f has the same connector type as the triumph, but im unsure about mounting holes, but this is so much cheaper to buy than a triumph one, and more readily available
like this.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CBR...63?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item56454aa883
The connector type is irrelevant, you DO NOT want to use those connectors! The mounting holes are the important part and I think there was some mention of a replacement that fitted in the parts swap thread, but for me in Australia the cost was the same so i went a Rick's stator.
im not a massive wiz on electrics and even changing the connector would be something id like to avoid, i know apparantly the zx6r fits (mounting holes etc) but changing the connector would bug me :/ any idea what the replacement was that fitted? ive found a reasonably priced new one from electrex but ive read some bad things (admittedly in very old posts) but cant find more recent reviews
yeah thats the electrex one id found but id heard some bad things about them, i have found two places that could rewind/recondition the original stator so im gunna get some prices, if that ends up being cheaper i'll have to go down that route instead as im on the tightest of budgets at the moment (serisouly, unemployment is not fun kids!) so anything at the 100 or more mark is a massive push for me, especially when the new reg rec is gunna set me back around 50 and i have only 185 to my name, to get me through another week and pay for the parts...
well ive tested the stator and thats definitely fried, but i cant afford to replace, but i can afford to have it rewound, though the guy to rewind it at a good price is away for 3 weeks yet, so in the mean time im going to replace the reg rec with an fh010 and the triumph link cable, try and tidy it up abit from the spill, and save what little money i can to pay for the rewind, then it should all be fine, even if its just the stator for now, i feel better replacing/repairing stator and reg rec since it seems they always go hand in hand, or very closely, so may aswell sort it now so its right when i need it again, just need to work on getting my 125 back on the road (unknown electrical fault on that too...) then ive got transport for the new job i might be starting in the new year...fingers crossed anyways
DO NOT have the stator rewound...it will be a temporary fix at best...I know you're tight on money right now but this will only end up costing you more in the very-short-run.
Its always good to find the cause of a problem
I fitted an Electrex stator to my old Honda xl250r earlier this year,didnt give me the voltage i expected but the bike runs a treat now so cant complain.
Whats up with the 125 electrics ?
I dunno mate....I just seem to remember someone telling me the same thing about having it rewound, hopefully someone else can advise you more accurately on that.
well, ive had the new reg/rec installed and im now waiting on the stator, unfortunately having no job has meant i cant get a new one, i can afford a rewind at 65 instead of a new one at over double that, this should give me time to then get the bike running, working, and if needs be, sold, before the issue ever returns, sly and underhand i know, but i may trade the old girl in for something with abit more poke, ive actually been considering a tl...but we'll see how things go with jobs first since im still unemployed, the 125 is now fixed (wont charge its own battery but thats because the battery is ****ed) so the trumpet may go as a matter of funds yet :/
Best honest, I had a guy sell me ones with a problem. I would have still bought it but it would have saved me time and money if I had known what was wrong. And yes I would have asked for a lower price on the bike, but with the stater issue thats not such a big thing as like needing a new engine. A rewound stater is not bad choice. It will fix you issue...
http://youtu.be/d_g_G794rMs well after a rewound stator and a new reg rec it now works again, though NOW after getting a new crush washer and doing my oil change etc. it has leaked from the sump plug, wierdly the more i tightened it the more it leaked, i dotn think its stripped the thread as i poked my finger in, i can still feel thread, the bolt is pristine but the washer itself has a kink on one side of it so im hoping its just a duff washer? but it also means ive just lost £40 worth of oil that has sat waiting patiently for me since i started taking it all apart, thanks guys for the help and advice with this, hopefully the leak is down to the washer and nothing else?
Unlucky how a 2p washer can cost so much oil though eh
Ive had it before on a car,where i ordered a new sump plug and like you the new washer leaked straight away.
Luckily i just got an arm full of oil,as i took off the new one and put the old one back on.And that didnt leak so it stayed on
well, it turns out i have a crack in the sump, well, two cracks in the sump, right on the thread aswell, sooooo need a new sump now, bidding on the only ebay one (please dont start a war with me, only just got a job so have no money still and i need to get this working asao) but if anyone has one going cheapish or knows where i can definitely get one it would be much appreciated, also, does the sump come off the bike without having to remove the headers, or am i really gunna have to screw about taking headers off aswell, id love to avoid the extra work and cost of header gaskets if it can be done.
thanks
I'm pretty certain you'll need to take the headers off.....my D650 is weeping a bit of oil from the sump gasket.....dealer luckily had one in stock, but once I got down and saw what was involved I figured 'sod it' and I'll just monitor the oil level.
Some of the bolts are right above the headers and there's almost zero clearance, so I don't really see a way around that.
Man you've not had much luck with this bike eh !
I cant comment as ive not had the sump off,but i would have thought its easier with the header's off.
Hopefully someone on here will now for sure.
Lets hope the ebay sump stay's a reasonable price..
not even with a piddly spanner? though i spose the bolts need to have enough room to come out...****, well, thats rained on my parade abit, more costs to find magic pennies for, oh the joy! thanks for the info though, at least i know what i need to budget for now
No, they're Allen head bolts IIRC, and that's the problem.
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