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Triumph SuperSports Triumph Four-Cylinder Enthusists: TT600, Speed4, and Daytona 600/650

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Old 11-25-2012, 05:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Triumph tt600 t.l.c.

Hi everyone, just bought my first Triumph last week.
Its a 2001 model tt600 in black & yellow,which has been converted to look like a Speedfour.
Its a one owner bike,but not a careful one
I only paid a couple hundred pounds for it,hence it needs some t.l.c. !!
The bike had been laid up in a garage for a number of years,then left outside for a couple more uncovered
It was purchased as a non runner,and soon had it turning over after cleaning out the starter solenoid.
What i soon discovered was the fuel tank was two thirds full of rusty water,ahh
The water drain under the fuel filler cap had blocked up causing water to over spill into the tank.Soon cleared that out and had the fuel pump assembly out,then cleaned it all up.
Unfortunately that original owner had been cranking rusty water/fuel through the injectors,which in turn were completely blocked up.
I managed to buy a fuel rail complete with injectors,regulator and fuel lines for a reasonable price. And it then fired up
With a 7000rpm tickover
That was a missing/unplugged air pipe to the throttle bodies.
Now the tickover is down to 1700rpm cold,much better !
Its not all good news as my newly purchased link cable and tune ecu program tell me,i have fault codes p0230 and p1232.
Fuel pump relay (which it doesnt have!) and short circuit/earth problem in same area.
Not to be out done,the clutch has no resistance at the lever.
In other words,when you pull the feather light lever in,theres hardly any pull from the spring to bring it back.
The cable is brand new.And you can move the cable lever coming out the clutch cover with no effort.Not good
Still its a project,and a learning curve as always.

Pictures to follow if it ever stops raining in the south of England !!
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have a little bit of a basket case too. Fun to learn and fix em up. Bring her back to her full beauty
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I take my hat off to you, sir, for attempting such a thing. I would love to mess with bikes and bring them back to its former glory. However I just bought a TT600 with 3300 miles on the clock with nowt wrong with it!! Hope you succeed in bringing it back.


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Old 11-26-2012, 04:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenhill01761 View Post
I take my hat off to you, sir, for attempting such a thing. I would love to mess with bikes and bring them back to its former glory. However I just bought a TT600 with 3300 miles on the clock with nowt wrong with it!! Hope you succeed in bringing it back.


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If you have only one bike then I would say yes, but if you have another then why not I find it very interesting. I have an older Duc 2000. and it was in great shape, but I could not tell you the ins and outs of her, I just could not bring myself to selftool and ding her up. So a Daytona triumph that needs work... And I learn all about the bike.
Enjoy the ride
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Well today i managed to go sort the clutch problem out

I took the cover off and the clutch plates out.
They all had more than 3mm of friction material left,so they were
oiled back up and put back together.
But when the outer cover was put back on, the actuating pushrod operated by the cable arm was only just touching the lifter piece.
Or to put it plainly,when the cable arm was pulled in fully by the clutch lever via the cable,the pushrod inside the cover was only just getting to the point of touching the clutch plate unit.Did that make sense ?
All that travel where the cable attaches,only translates to 3mm of movement needed from the pushrod to get things working again.
I gained this by fitting a 3mm thick washer of the correct dia to the lifter piece (A washer with a top hat on it that goes inside a bearing) which moved it closer to the pushrod and taking up the slack.

[IMG][/IMG]



Now the bikes running the next job will be to investigate the fuel pump fault code.
And why the twin headlight conversion is not being powered up.
Could they be related ?
More fun ahead i predict
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Good luck, keep the info coming
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Old 11-28-2012, 01:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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A bit more progress.
Decided the damaged rat nest better known as the Datatool veto evo,had to be evicted.
It looked a mess,didnt work and had been chopped about anyway !



Ive not shown how to bypass the wiring,but it is surprisingly easy.

Also checked out the wiring from the ecm to the fuel pump,to see if i could find out why i have a fault code from there.
Unfortunately the wiring was fine,leading me to think there could be a internal fault with the ecm

Tomorrow will be finding out how someone has wired up the twin headlight conversion,which at the moment has bypassed the switch's and switch gear !!
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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After getting my head round the negative switching lighting system,i found that there was a problem in the switch gear. Soon sorted with a bit of cleaning.

And the stubby led front indicators were flashing to fast,that was sorted by wiring in some load resistors to slow down the flashing.

And both bulbs in the instrument cluster had to be replaced.

Getting there slowly
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Cool! What is exactly a negative switching lighting system? They sell a relay on ebay that you can use with LED's instead of in line resistors. Never used them but that will be my next purchase if I keep the LED's on there.
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2008superduke View Post
Cool! What is exactly a negative switching lighting system? They sell a relay on ebay that you can use with LED's instead of in line resistors. Never used them but that will be my next purchase if I keep the LED's on there.
With the majority of bikes (and cars) when you command a switch to do something,it will send or cut off a positive signal to whatever its going to. And have a permanent negative.

With this Triumph it will send or cut off a Negative signal,and have a permanent positive.With the ignition on.
There are exceptions to the indicators,and maybe the horn.Ive not checked that

The only reason i used the resistors was that i had them left over from an old project,and the rear indicators are the original non led's.
I agree,if i had 4 led's a relay would save room and look tidier
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