Triumphrat

Jewyjoe87

Hopefully y'all can help me out. I'm out of luck with this thing. So my problem is I can't keep my battery charged. The first time I recharged the battery it read 12.9 and held the for about three days without installing it and starting the bike. So the next day I did a load test on the battery ign. On lights on bright, horn, brakes all that. Voltage was 11.8 boarder line bad I beleive. So when I start the bike voltages dropped to right 11, ran for a few seconds and dropped again 9.9 so by this time I believe my battery is bad. Forgot to say I started with a new r/r thought that was the problem first. Then tried the battery. At idle the voltage is bouncing around 11.2-11.8 when I rev it to 3k it goes up to 12.3.

So I rode around about a hour to see what it would do. When I got back home the battery was dead lights are still bright but tac and speedo flashing at idle. And wouldn't start agian just 1 click the nothing.

Now I have put a new r/r on and tested the stator but have not taking it cometly out to look at it but the clips are brown and discolored but not burnt or melted. When I tested it, it read 88 volts from all 3 pins at 5k Rpms.

I've checked the fuses and all are good. The only thing I havnt done is modify the wiring. Or take a chance at wasting another 80 bucks on a battery. Forgot to say after I drained the battery (yesterday) I go ouside just out of curiosity today I tried to start the bike to se what it would do. And magically charged it's self overnight and fired up no problem. Not fully charged but good enough to start. Now I believe the battery is good.

Don't know what to do next. It's starting to get cold in north ga and want to get a few more rides in befor winter. Don't want to go out like this. Thanks anybody that can help!!!!

DEcosse

Your battery is fine (11.8 under load is good) - your generating system was the problem - either stator or R/R - there are a ton of threads in here on this subject - refer to this thread for diagnostics

Bad/burned connection will be a problem - replace any connectors that got fried.

Test your stator per the sticky - the simplest one is just to check isolation to ground: measure resistance from any pin on the connector plug back into the stator to engine ground - should be open circuit (inifnite resistance); if short (zero ohms) stator is toast

What does voltage read across battery now with the new R/R with engine running - you don't report that.

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Jewyjoe87

Thanks for the comment. All of the readings I posted befor are with the new rr on the bike. I'm scepticle about that battery because it's only 6 months old but it's a cheapo from wallmart(everstart aka neverstart) iv read that sticky a few times and get confused on what I should have the voltmeter set to to get the right reading. Thanks agian I'm going to mess with it agian in a while

Jewyjoe87

Just thought of a quick question I tested the stators voltaged out put at all three pins and was at 88v at 5k Rpms witch sounds accurate to what iv read on other threads but my question is would it be putting out the voltaged even if it's grounding it's self or could this just come down to bad wires? And if it's just the wires I should go ahead and do the wiring mod like in the sticky correct?

DEcosse

The value is less important than that all three pairs are the same at exact same rpm
Leave it at idle so the rpm is constant - get the readings between the three different pair combinations
1 - 2
2 - 3
3 - 1
Report the actual voltage you measure for each one

Do the resistance/isolation test I indicated above


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Jewyjoe87

Sorry for so many questions but I'm new to this 1st bike and never work on another one, but u say test

1-2
2-3
3-1

Do you mean black probe on 1 and red on 2 then, black on 2 and red on 3, then black on 3 and red on 1?

Again sorry for q/a trying to figure this out instead of sending it to the stealers (dealers) for more $$$$ then I have
Thanks again

DEcosse

When measuring AC does not matter which colour probe is on which terminal - just measure between the the three possible terminal pair combinations
But do the isolation resistance check first - does not matter which terminal you use for that test, any one of the three


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Gato

yeah those charging system suck got tired of that so i bought a r/r and stator.the r/r bought on ebay stator from bikebanit but the stator only lasted a year and half. comes with a one year warranty(stator). bikebanit price matches powersportsuperstore has it cheaper. i would just buy both($230) again. save you self some headaches just swap them. testing is fine, don't get me wrong maybe you just need one. with the oem stuff mine was charging 13.2v@ idle (fan off) 12.8@ idle (fan on); 4-5k 12.5v fan on or off swapped both idle 13.8@idle(fan off) 13.5v@ idle (fan on); 14.3v @ 4-5k no more problems no more worrying

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/...-p/4080894.htm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDENGEN-M...item5895f5e223

Jewyjoe87

Thanks to both of you. I'm tired of taking it apart, puting it together and breaking it down again. So I just orderd the stator from powers port place, should be here in a few days so ill let u know how it goes with the new stator. Any suggestion on install???

DEcosse

Why order a stator without confirming whether it is bad or not?
The simple tests I asked you to do would have given you the answer.

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