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Triumph SuperSports Triumph Four-Cylinder Enthusists: TT600, Speed4, and Daytona 600/650

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Old 10-06-2012, 12:42 AM   #121 (permalink)
D41
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What part of the brakes do you mean?? I replaced my OEM master cylinder with a radial unit from an '07 Yamaha R1....and for brake pads I'm using EBC HH sintered...they work great on a track, but on the street you never get enough heat into them to work properly...I wouldn't recommend them for street use, TBH.
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:02 AM   #122 (permalink)
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The actual rotors themselves?
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:32 AM   #123 (permalink)
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Nothing wrong with the OEM rotors except the price..."Braking" are supposed to be pretty good, as are Galfer and EBC. EBC rotors run about $320 a pair...OEM are more than twice that!!
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:42 AM   #124 (permalink)
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Mmmmmmmm...... GOLD!! 520 108 EK Gold 15/47 Vortex/Driven Nickel/Black.

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Old 10-10-2012, 09:56 AM   #125 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxacon600 View Post
Mmmmmmmm...... GOLD!! 520 108 EK Gold 15/47 Vortex/Driven Nickel/Black.

Nice! I'm going to put 15/47 JT sprockets and a 525 DID chain on mine this week, should smooth things out a bit over the dead chain on there right now.

Also uploaded the 10166 map to it and let it run and adapt yesterday. Took it for a ride and it runs like a champ now, waaay smoother. Still a touch of fluffiness under 2K rpms, but it's much easier to ride around town and is a huge improvement from the 10089 map that was on it. Hopefully a couple more heat cycles will smooth things out even more. Man, this bike is looking like a better buy every day. I'm thankful that this site is a great resource for these motorcycles.

Last edited by SquarEuro; 10-10-2012 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:15 AM   #126 (permalink)
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I have a JT on my 185, still looks great after a year. As for D.I.D., I went well over the legal limits with the stock D.I.D. for like 3 hours straight before I got the new chain... it wouldn't break haha. It was only $10 more on eBay for this EK MVXZ 520 chain as opposed to the D.I.D. 520. It had a higher tensile strength and is supposed to last the longest, for $10 extra. Search for skiTTles' thread on changing them out for torque specks and tools needed. Let me know how it goes!
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Last edited by Maxacon600; 10-11-2012 at 12:16 AM. Reason: typohno
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:23 AM   #127 (permalink)
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Good and bad news. Well the good news is I got the sprockets and chain on this weekend. Between that, replacing the cracked IAC hoses and the re-mapping, it runs and rides very smoothly, a big improvement over when I first got it. Bad news is I went to put it up on the stand and I let it fall over like a noob (which I am). I didn't want to bother my wife who was trying to get a nap (we have an 8 mo old and a 3 year old), but all I needed was 15 seconds of her time and I could have avoided it. I need learn to ask for help and to take a breath and slow down. Hopefully I can just chalk it up as a lesson learned.

Oh well, at least it fell on the side that already had light scratches, now the light scratches are just twice as bad. I'm planning on repainting that fairing over the winter anyway. Bleh.

But really, it runs and rides like a top now.
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2000 TT600 | Black and Yellow | TOR pipe, K&N, 10166 map and some other stuff.

Last edited by SquarEuro; 10-15-2012 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:44 AM   #128 (permalink)
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That was fast! And I have dropped mine 3 times; I've dumped all of my dirtbikes countless times, you aren't alone haha. At least it only scratched the paint! I have scratched paint, mufflers, broken footpegs and fouled out spark plugs (when tipped on the RH side). The first time was in snow and ice, which didn't leave a scratch (snow is soft!). The second time was too tight of a u-turn, and the last was in a unexpectedly deep (mushy) part of the gravel driveway. The frame sliders made sure the last one "didn't happen".
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:52 AM   #129 (permalink)
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Doing this mod....
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:20 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Ok so what is this front end from, you must tell me more
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