Triumphrat

MagnuM45 · 02-23-2010, 07:31 AM

So I found a good deal on a 2000 TT600 with 18k on it. It is missing all the fairings and is a bit rough, but runs.

The known issues are that after about 10-15 mins of running, it begins to "bog" under acceleration according to the owner. After doing some reading on the forum, this seems like it might be an IAC valve failure, but I wanted to see what everyone else on here thought. So basically, runs fine for 10-15 mins, probably until reaching fully warmed up temp, then bogs when giving throttle after that period. My guess is that it also dies shortly after as well. I haven't ridden it myself yet, this is just what the owner told me.

Now I don't mind working on bikes and have done quite a bit on my FZR, so i'm confident in my troubleshooting skills, however, I would like to know possible causes so I have some degree of idea of what i'm getting myself into.

Also, I was having trouble finding the part on Bikebandit, anyone know a site that sells an IAC?

Thanks in advance for the advice!!!

BombFactory · 02-23-2010, 12:27 PM

I don't know if it is the IACV, but it can cause acceleration issues down low. The IACV motor and other parts are found under the airbox section of Bbandit. It sounds like it could be a couple different things (just shooting in the dark here with the limited info I have):

1. CO setting is off.
2. Throttle Position in the ECM is off, or the Throttle Position sensor has moved.
3. Oil accumulated in the ECM vacuum line.
4. Throttle bodies out of sync (a lot).
5. Low battery voltage/charging system output.

With 18K miles, no fairing, some rough spots, and an engine that won't run under load, you shouldn't be paying much for the motorcycle (I'd say around $1,100 usd).

MagnuM45 · 02-23-2010, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BombFactory

I don't know if it is the IACV, but it can cause acceleration issues down low. The IACV motor and other parts are found under the airbox section of Bbandit. It sounds like it could be a couple different things (just shooting in the dark here with the limited info I have):

1. CO setting is off.
2. Throttle Position in the ECM is off, or the Throttle Position sensor has moved.
3. Oil accumulated in the ECM vacuum line.
4. Throttle bodies out of sync (a lot).
5. Low battery voltage/charging system output.

With 18K miles, no fairing, some rough spots, and an engine that won't run under load, you shouldn't be paying much for the motorcycle (I'd say around $1,100 usd).

Excellent! Well, I am only paying $500 for it, so I suppose its worth some tinkering

BombFactory · 02-23-2010, 04:32 PM

Take into consideration that the above possibilities are not the only ones. We have seen members with fault ECMs, requiring the purchase of a used one. In any case, I don't think you can go wrong spending $500, assuming the thing isn't trashed to the point of parting it out. Even then you could definitely make the $500 back if you had to the part it out.

MagnuM45 · 02-23-2010, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BombFactory

Take into consideration that the above possibilities are not the only ones. We have seen members with fault ECMs, requiring the purchase of a used one. In any case, I don't think you can go wrong spending $500, assuming the thing isn't trashed to the point of parting it out. Even then you could definitely make the $500 back if you had to the part it out.

Yea, I figured that the parts should be worth at least that. Do ECM's need to be reflashed at a dealer or anything if you put them on a different bike? My BMW (car) is like that, so its a pain occasionally

I'm sure with some cordination with this board and some hours spent on it, I could get it running

BombFactory · 02-23-2010, 09:06 PM

The ECM doesn't need to be flashed if it is from a TT600, although I would have a dealership figure out exactly what map is on it before energizing the ECM in the the TT600; if there is a Speed Four map loaded, there may be negative effects to the instrument panel. It's worth having an updated map loaded, or at least the ECM map read.

Will · 02-23-2010, 09:40 PM

A bad IAC will cause the bike to run like a poorly tuned two stroke with a huge flatslide. You will find yourself slipping the clutch to keep it from dying when you have the revs under full on screaming, but once you get into the range it wants to be, it will go just fine. There will be a millimeter wide power band, and it won't act at all like a tractable four stroke. If it's a bad IACV with a bad stepper motor, it's a real mess. Fortunately, it's pretty easy to fix if you have cash to buy parts, the manual, and a bit of time.

skweetis13 · 02-26-2010, 06:35 AM

Very small world, I actually just bought this bike yesterday. It certainly does have a stumbling issue under 4k. I checked the plugs and air filter tonite and they were good, although the air box want seated on the throttle bodies all the way. I also checked the codes with my obd2 scanner and this is what popped up
p0352
p0353
p1353
p1352
p0230
p1231
so i know the first four are coil malfunc. and misfire codes. The last 2 i believe are fuel pump relay codes. so icleared the codes and it still does the same thing. also found a receipt that states it had the most recent tune done in 2007, it appears to have an oem carbon fiber muffler but im assuming that the tune covered that. almost forgot the most right side plug looked a little hot, maybe relay not working and causing lean condition down low? N e ways thanks

ntmid8or · 02-26-2010, 02:33 PM

Did the MIL come back on? Fuel pump code can be triggered if you turn the key on with the fuel pump disconnected. Coil codes are for cyls #2 and #3. Last digit of code corresponds with cyl. #. Wires could have been crossed/dirty. As for lean #4 cyl poor fuel delivery could be the cause. This could be caused by anything from weak fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, bad pressure regulator,bad/clogged injector,or even dirt in the fuel rail itself. Also a vacuum leak to #4 cyl between IACV and manifold.

skweetis13 · 02-26-2010, 02:44 PM

im gonna put the air box back on and see if it runs better, i disconnected the battery so it should of resetted the ecu. When i pulled the tank back i noticed the airbox was only halfway on lol, so i guess maybe that could be a vacuum leak to the iac? That airbox btw is a pain to put back on. The mil didnt come back on when i cleared the codes, but i only had it running for like 15min.