Triumphrat

shroomy · 01-24-2010, 12:15 AM

hey all, I recently purchased a salvage s4 and I think I'm having an issue. Namely when pull in the clutch and try to move the bike, I encounter a lot of resistance, the bike is a lot harder to move than when it is in neutral. Now I don't know whether or not this is normal (if it is, then please forgive this question as I'm a complete newb and this is my first bike); but if it's not, I've identified the transmission as the source of this resistance. So, I'm really hoping said resistance is normal. Thanks.

showmetheway428 · 01-24-2010, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shroomy

hey all, I recently purchased a salvage s4 and I think I'm having an issue. Namely when pull in the clutch and try to move the bike, I encounter a lot of resistance, the bike is a lot harder to move than when it is in neutral. Now I don't know whether or not this is normal (if it is, then please forgive this question as I'm a complete newb and this is my first bike); but if it's not, I've identified the transmission as the source of this resistance. So, I'm really hoping said resistance is normal. Thanks.

Have you tried adjusting the clutch?

BombFactory · 01-24-2010, 03:21 PM

It is normal to have slightly more resistance when pushing the motorcycle in gear with the clutch disengaged as opposed to pushing it with the transmission in neutral. The added resistance while in gear is because of transmission gear/shaft friction that you don't get when the transmission is in neutral.

However, you should still be able to push the motorcycle with ease while in gear with the clutch disengaged. If you are having to struggle to do this, compared to the force required to push the motorcycle when in neutral, the clutch is engaging too much. I too would check the adjustment of the clutch at the lever (0.4-0.8mm play).

shroomy · 01-24-2010, 03:25 PM

yeah, i tightened the cable as far as it would go and the resistance was still there. I've currently dissembled the clutch down through the push plate, so the clutch is as open as it can be and the resistance is still there. When I spin the transmission side of the clutch the engine doesn't spin at all, and with the bike in neutral the rear wheel spins freely; which is why i'm guessing that the transmission is the source of the resistance.

shroomy · 01-24-2010, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BombFactory

However, you should still be able to push the motorcycle with ease while in gear with the clutch disengaged. If you are having to struggle to do this, compared to the force required to push the motorcycle when in neutral, the clutch is engaging too much. I too would check the adjustment of the clutch at the lever (0.4-0.8mm play).

It's definitely a struggle to push the bike when it's in gear with the clutch disengaged compared to when it's in neutral.

Oh, I should mention that when the bike was crashed it fell on it's left side and the shifter was bent, so maybe that damaged something in the transmission?

BombFactory · 01-24-2010, 04:23 PM

Damage is possible if the shift-shaft was hit hard enough. I bought a wrecked TT600, and the shift-shaft had been hit hard enough to dislodge the c-clip, pushing the shaft in. It damaged the shift-shaft fingers, making gear changing impossible. If the transmission shifts fine when riding and when at a standstill, I don't think shift-shaft damage would cause resistance in pushing. You may need to ovehall the clutch plates.

shroomy · 01-24-2010, 04:54 PM

I think the bike shifts fine, the rear wheel does have to turn a little to complete the shift for a couple of the gears (sorry, i'm completely new to bikes and well, engines in general, so I don't really know what to expect). I guess I'll finish dissembling the clutch and see if anything seems out of place. Thanks for all the help.

shroomy · 01-26-2010, 09:45 PM

So, in a fit of mild annoyance I sat down behind my bike and began spinning the rear wheel. Lo and behold after 2 rotations or so all the resistance disappeared. Completely. If I let it be for a minute or so, the resistance would come back, and then disappear after a few revolutions.

So I think that the residual oil left on the friction discs and clutch plates is just keeping them stuck together. I'd just kinda assumed that in disengaged clutch the plates would instantly spin freely, but it seems they have to separate first.

I'll order the clutch holder, and when that gets here I'll dissemble the clutch completely and make sure none of the discs are scratched or warped or anything else that might make them stick together. But in the meantime I'll put it back together and see about getting the bike registered. And hopefully, with a little luck, the only thing wrong with the clutch will be my lack of understanding. Once again, thanks for the help.

BombFactory · 01-26-2010, 10:27 PM

No problem. It doesn't sound problematic to me, but getting a look at everything might ease your mind. Personally, if everything is shifting as well as you say, I'd just run it. If you begin to notice odd smells (of a slipping clutch) or if shifting becomes problematic, you will know to look at it further. In regards to shifting the transmission when the engine is off: it is normal to have to roll the bike back and forth to get it in and out of all the gears. Good luck.