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World SuperBike Favourite Bike: '02 CE Speedtona 955i
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Buffalo, NY, San Francisco Expatriate
Posts: 2,461
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Many people have differing approaches (e.g. some people and manuals say to warm the engine up and then drain the oil while others say to do it cold), but this is what I suggest:
1. After the engine is warm, let the bike rest with the engine off for ten minutes or so to ensure the oil drains from the top-end.
2. Place a drain pan under the oil pan and remove the drain plug. Have a rag ready when doing this, and move the bolt quickly to the side, as the oil will be hot and you don't want it running all over your hand. Pay close attention to the flow of oil, looking for any debris or discoloration.
3. While the pan is draining, place either another drain pan or the same one, if large enough, under the oil filter.
4. If you don't want oil getting on the header pipes, you can soak a paper towel in water and cover the pipes with it. This will divert the oil from the pipes. I don't do this and just let the oil get on the pipes. I then wipe the pipes with brake cleaner and a rag when I'm done.
5. Using an oil filter wrench/socket, loosen the oil filter until you can spin it by hand. Remove the filter and tilt it so the oil doesn't run out. Place it is the pan to drain.
6. Take the new filter and compare the thread size with the old one. If it checks out, poor about 8 oz. of oil into the filter. Move the filter around so the oil soaks into the filter material. Dip your finger in some new oil and completely wet the filter's o-ring.
7. With a rag, clean the o-ring mating surface on the engine.
8. In one quick motion, so as not to spill oil from the filter, place the filter on the engine and ensure that the threads are properly started. Spin it on only until you feel the o-ring contact the engine. Follow the filter's instructions for tightening (most filters are 3/4 turn tight after contact with mating surface). Some filters have a bolt head on them and tell you to torque them down. You can either do that or tighten the filter 3/4 of a turn. Clean off any oil from the headers.
9. By this time, the engine should be drained. Move the the side of the bike and lift it off the kickstand so that it is straight up to allow any pooled oil to drain. Once the oil is no longer flowing, but only drips very little, if any, place it back on the kickstand. Clean the drain plug and pan's matting surface. The old gasket in most cases is good to use again. If it is cracked or damaged, you should replace it. Install the plug and ensure the threads are properly started. If you don't have experience tightening drain plugs into aluminum, get a torque wrench and tighten the plug to 25 Nm. Do not over-tighten the bolt or you can strip the threads next time you try to remove it.
10. Place a funnel in the oil filler hole where the dipstick is located. Pour 4 quarts (or 4 liters) in. Now hold the bike upright off the stand, clean the dipstick with a rag, and screw it in until the o-ring contacts the surface. Remove the dipstick and check for oil. Add oil and repeat until the oil is at the full mark. It doesn't need to be right on the mark, as you will need to add oil after starting the engine anyways because the oil filter is mainly empty at this point. In the end, the engine will take approx. 4.2 liters or 4.4 quarts.
11. Once the dipstick is showing full capacity, fire the engine and watch the oil pressure light. It will probably remain illuminated for three seconds or so, as there is little oil in the filter, but it should go out within six seconds or so; if it doesn't there is a problem. Let the engine idle for a minute or two, then shut it off. Let the bike rest for ten minutes or so while you clean up, and then check the dipstick again. To check the oil, with the bike upright, remove the dipstick, wipe it off, and screw it back in. You should have to add approx. 12 oz. of oil. Don't overfill the oil. You are done.
Before disposing of the used oil, take a close look at it for any debris. It is okay to see some metallic dust, but you shouldn't see shavings or chunks.
Although it is a simple phrase "changing the oil", the instructions are obviously longer. A lot of people don't add oil to the filter before installing it, but by adding some oil you soak the filter material so that you will get oil pressure faster when firing the engine. On an engine where the filter attaches to the bottom, the filter should be entirely filled with oil before installing, but this cannot be done on on the TT600/S4/D6, as the oil would run out when installing the filter. Draining the oil when the engine is warm quickens the process, as the oil is thinner than when cold. The important thing when draining the oil and checking the oil level is to make sure the engine has rested long enough to allow the oil from the top-end to drain into the pan.
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"My life stood-a Loaded Gun- / In Corners-till a Day / The Owner passed-identified- / And carried Me away- /. . .Though I than He-may longer live / He longer must-than I- / For I have but the power to kill, / Without-the power to die-" E.Dickinson
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