Triumphrat

Gato · 10-09-2009, 12:04 AM

I have a TT600, It’s my first bike and over all its ok. Well I have been having some problems with my battery. I thought it was not charging at first because the fan would stay on after I turn it off, some times for like 5 mins. So I charged the battery and would turn off the bike with the kill switch, wait until the fan turned off the turned the key off. That kept the fan from staying on. That was that for 4 months then this week same thing is going on. I think I need a new battery but I decided to check the charging system. I didn’t use the system that people here have used with the volt meters, because I don’t know to use them. I checked it with an Auto Meter Battery Tester. It tests batteries, starting system, and charging systems. I didn’t know how to test the battery because I didn’t know how much CCA (cold cranking amps) to draw. So I tested for 100 amps (lowest it draws) it said charge and retest. I put the battery on the charger and the battery was at like 80% charged. Once it was at a 100% tested it again and it said the same thing charge and retest. So I didn’t know if the 100 amps where too much or what. Next I tested the alternator with the bike with bike on that’s the only way I know just like a car. I hooked up Auto Meter Battery Tester to the battery and it read 14 point something. When it tested the alternator it went 40-0-40-0-40 amps. It said good alternator, Bad Diode, good output. Ok know when I tested cars (alternators) with the Auto Meter Tester the test go some like 60-80-60-80 or 40-50-40-50 something like that depends on the car. So I’m going to buy a new battery because they cost about 30 bucks but how can I fix the Bad Diode. I have been reading but just don’t understand it. I understand the upgrade people do but everyone has low output but mine is good. I will be taking the bike apart the weekend and looking at the stator to see how it looks but don’t really know what I’m looking for? Any help would be accepted. Thanks

BombFactory · 10-09-2009, 01:46 AM

Correct me if I'm wrong, but your whole issue is that you think the battery is bad because the fan stays on after the ignition switch is turned off? If this is the case, there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with your battery; the fan staying on is a common thing with our motorcycles. I don't think there is a definite answer as to why the fan stays on so long after the ignition is turned off, as mine never did that until I loaded a different ECM map. Now it does it, but if I switch the ignition off, wait for the ECM to turn off, then switch the ignition on, the fan goes off.

As far as testing the charging system goes, you should get a voltmeter. You'll not want to only test the volts at the battery, but you will want to test the stator and the rectifier/regulator. Testing at the battery doesn't test these separately.

Gato · 10-09-2009, 05:50 AM

NO the fan is not killing my battery any more, it did that 4 months ago. I turn off my bike so the fan doesn't stay on. OK NO more fan problems.

The test that I ran said good alternator, Bad Diode, good output. This test doesn't just show volts, it tests the alternator by draws amps. Every one that has problems has low output that's what I have been reading. That's why they change the stator or rectifier/regulator. Which one controls the diodes because that's whats bad on mine. That's what I think I will try to get a good volt meter to check it the way people do it on here. Is the way i tested it wrong? There is a link to the tester I used for checking my bike at the bottom. I does test them separate because it has 3 modes. Maybe I didn't explain that. But I think the way I tested is easier because I can just use that tester connected to the battery while the bike is running to tell me every thing but having never worked on a bike maybe I'm doing it wrong please let me know.

Auto Meter
Micro-Processor Tester
BVA-200s
http://test.autometer.com/productDet...ctID=6&isKit=0

GNTurbo6 · 10-09-2009, 02:11 PM

I think you're using the wrong word here. A diode is simply something that goes inline with wiring and only allows current to go one way.

Gato · 10-09-2009, 02:44 PM

I am just repeating what the tester said. What part of the bike controls the diode? I mean on a car you just said hey your alternator is bad put a new one on. But on bikes I guess it's in two parts the stator which is like the brushes and the regulator. But I will check Saturday with the volt meter. Is there some where on here I can look that has pics, or what page of the manual can I look at because I don't really know where to stick the volt meter.

Will · 10-09-2009, 03:06 PM

I'm guessing whatever meter you are using thinks the RR is a diode. Just a guess. If the RR is fried, chances are it was fried by something, and the something is a melted stator often enough I would look at both pretty carefully and test both.

BombFactory · 10-09-2009, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gato

Is there some where on here I can look that has pics, or what page of the manual can I look at because I don't really know where to stick the volt meter.

http://www.triumphrat.net/triumph-su...tator-bad.html

Gato · 10-10-2009, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yakoo11

so it seems that while riding my speedo background light flickers but it has yet to fail. I replaced my battery a couple months back, So I assume thats not the cause. By reading I assume I should check the red-wire contact on the rectifier/regulator connector also has a history of oxidation/corrosion. Be sure to check these, clean them and use new dielectric grease! but I dont know exactly where this is. If anyone has pics I would appreciate it. It "feels" like a loose connection but I am coming up on 24000 miles (maybe the stator(I hope not).... to test stator would I be using this wire

I had to steal this pic from ebay but I guess it should work

Had to steal his steal Sorry. Is that where is stick the mutimeter because I'm not sure.

Gato · 10-14-2009, 11:17 PM

ok i test ohms on the stator and saw that the wires were striped. i think they where touching so i fixed that. put new connections put the bike back together and let it warm up.

ohms stator bike off(not running)
1-2=.7
1-3=.7
2-3=.7

battery volts bike running
14.20-14.45 idle
13.85-14.05 3k

(bike off) Ok i think i checked the RR i tested the 3 yellows to ground 1 ohm(nothing happen), red to ground 1 ohm(nothing happen), black to ground 0 ohms. I also touched all the all the cables to each other and got 1 ohms (nothing happen)

Do I also have to test the stator with the bike running???