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Old 08-15-2007   #51 (permalink)
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Wow. Your bike either has some major engine work done or the dyno you used is optimistic (or both). If you dynoed 130hp, you're making something like 150hp at the crank.
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Old 08-28-2007   #52 (permalink)
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I like to know how you got the power out that bike. And where the dyno was done. If it was Mario at MD Cycles, then I would trust the numbers.
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Old 08-29-2007   #53 (permalink)
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It was a Dyno in New York..We trailered it down..only time I have put it on a trailer. didn't want to drive it all the way down..
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Old 12-30-2007   #54 (permalink)
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i'm trying to set the rear shock preload but it seems i need a special tool for it (doesn't seem like the standard wrench type ring)

how did you guys change the preload on the rear shock?
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Old 01-02-2008   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justice Strike View Post
i'm trying to set the rear shock preload but it seems i need a special tool for it (doesn't seem like the standard wrench type ring)

how did you guys change the preload on the rear shock?
Standard wrench works ok, but there are a couple things that make it easier:

First, unweight the rear suspension - with the bike on its kickstand, use a small jack to carefully lever the rear wheel off the ground. The bike will be at an unnatural angle, but not too precarious to work on.

Second, don't bother with undoing the top lock collar separately from the bottom collar when removing preload - just turn them both together. Snug the top one down when you're done. It's much easier to turn them both together; they are too thin to turn them individually more than just a tiny bit.
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Old 01-03-2008   #56 (permalink)
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i found these two pages useful if you dont know how to do it:




Haven't done it yet, but looks very easy

Last edited by redl1nerpm : 01-03-2008 at 02:55 AM.
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Old 01-03-2008   #57 (permalink)
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i found these two pages useful if you dont know how to do it:
Haven't done it yet, but looks very easy
You'll notice that there is no mention in those pages of how to change the rear pre-load. This is arguably the most important adjustment, the one you do first. The owner's manual claims it is a procedure to be done by the authorized dealer.
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Old 01-03-2008   #58 (permalink)
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You can also use a screwdriver and mallet to turn the collars. It isn't elegant, but it works.
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Old 01-03-2008   #59 (permalink)
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You'll notice that there is no mention in those pages of how to change the rear pre-load. This is arguably the most important adjustment, the one you do first. The owner's manual claims it is a procedure to be done by the authorized dealer.
True, and nor does the service manual. Someone should probably chime in and explain how don't you think?
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Old 01-03-2008   #60 (permalink)
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Measure the height of a point on the bike while it is sitting on its wheels. Then measure again with the rider's complete weight on it. It will take two people to do this. Three makes it easier since you want ALL the rider's weight on the bike. Then you tighten the collars to add more spring tension and lessen sag, or loosen the collars to reduce spring tension and increase sag. You can make the adjustments by using a special wrench or using a long screwdriver and mallet. Both work.
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