How does rider weight impact the settings? Is there a formula somewhere?

Peet

Rider weight affects all the settings. The article probably stated what "average" weight they were for but that was not published here. Might be handy to know that.

that's a good pooint Shards. I dont have the article any longer so if someone I sent it to could post up the weight settings used I'll edit my first post so its all together.

The settings are for an "average" rider who weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 170 lbs. I discovered that the stock preloads were perfect for me, but that I had to add two clicks of both compression and rebound to suit the speeds that I go on track days. For comparison, I weigh a little less than 170 lbs.

__________________
Will
It's a squid thing. You wouldn't understand.

some of you may have read my ongoing problems with my chain guide in the "Chain Guide" forum.
If you have not suggest you do.
I did reply earlier to this particular forum saying that these settings were great. But now have gone back to Factory settings.
Why? well my dealership suggested that a contributory factor of the excessive wear problems of the guide may have something to do with the suspension being so hard, so I am at least willing to try this theory out.

Just thought you should all be aware.

Quote:

On 2004-07-19 01:17, pantablo wrote: ...I dont have the article any longer so if someone I sent it to could post up the weight settings used I'll edit my first post so its all together.

FOUND THE ARTICLE!
No mention of specific weights but one mention in passing of it being good for "average weight riders" so there it is.

I'd like to pass the magazine original I have to someone more regular to the board (Will?) so those that want a copy can still get it.

Justabiker-
The common "fix" by the dealer for the chain pad problem is to soften the suspension but this only fixes the symptom, not the root cause of the premature wear. Those that have done it have reverted back reporting that it is too soft. Personally, I'd choose proper suspension setup over chain guard wear. I also think that within the standard range of settings for the suspension the bike shouldnt have any problems. So, the fact that it is made worse with the stiffer suspension settings only points to the larger problem of the premature wear. it should be on your dealer to fix problem with the new gearing.

I currently have the stock compression and rebound settings but decreased the rear preload about two complete turns and decreased the front preload just a tad. I am 5' 10" and 157 lbs (Lance Armstrong's race weight). I lost weight from 172 lbs by bicycling 5,000 miles a year and strength training (I did 21 pull ups at the Marine Corps challenge).

Lowering the bike lets me easily park the bike with my feet flat on the ground. The bike steers neutral compared to what I am used too. Sure, it would steer quicker if I increased the rear preload, but stable is nice too. Lowering the bike was also supposed to lessen the chain guard wear problem, but I am already about halfway through the guard with only 1,500 miles (14t/42T sprockets). I guess a big 250 lbs guy would have more rear sag, raise the chain off the swing arm, and have less chain guard wear. I am trying to get my dealer to update the sprockets to 15T/45T. If he won't do it, I guess I'll have to stop exercising and start binge eating.

My old ZX6R had an independent adjustment for rear ride height which was a nice feature. The trick to doing the adjustment was to put a jack between the top of the rear tire and the rear sub frame to take the weight off the top shock mount.

I currently have the stock compression and rebound settings but decreased the rear preload about two complete turns and decreased the front preload just a tad. I am 5' 10" and 157 lbs (Lance Armstrong's race weight). I lost weight from 172 lbs by bicycling 5,000 miles a year and strength training (I did 21 pull ups at the Marine Corps challenge).

Lowering the bike lets me easily park the bike with my feet flat on the ground. The bike steers neutral compared to what I am used too. Sure, it would steer quicker if I increased the rear preload, but stable is nice too. Lowering the bike was also supposed to lessen the chain guard wear problem, but I am already about halfway through the guard with only 1,500 miles (14t/42T sprockets). I guess a big 250 lbs guy would have more rear sag, raise the chain off the swing arm, and have less chain guard wear. I am trying to get my dealer to update the sprockets to 15T/45T. If he won't do it, I guess I'll have to stop exercising and start binge eating.

My old ZX6R had an independent adjustment for rear ride height which was a nice feature. The trick to doing the adjustment was to put a jack between the top of the rear tire and the rear sub frame to take the weight off the top shock mount.

you should note the one difference between S4 and TT600 noted in the owners manual; TT600 fork springs are of a higher rate. Standard settings for S4 are 3 lines showing; TT600 5 lines showing; rear spring rate is not noted in the manual, however. It would make sense that the TT600 has a siffer spring out back as well, though.

Hi to all,

I have recently bought my first triumph. An 01 TT600, And wow what a bike.

I noticed this thread when i was searching to see if there was any way to lower the ride height on it.

I have recently spoken to a company called Maxton Engineering (Based in Warrington UK) They have told me that they produce aftermarket Tiebars for lowering the bike without the need for any major suspension setting adjustments.

I was wondering if anyone has ever done anything like this and if the thing about not having to make any major setting adjustments is true?

Anyways, as im new to all of this any help / advise would be much appreciated.

Cheers