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Cooling Fan Amperage Problem?

7K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  postman87 
#1 ·
I have a 2004 Daytona 600 and am having a problem with my cooling fan. Sometimes it comes on at 218F(103C) like it should and sometimes it doesn't and causes the engine to overheat when I'm at a stop light. When it does come on, it makes the gauges reset if it's at an idle. If I give it a little throttle it usually doesn't make the gauges reset when it turns on. The fan says it is rated at 35 VA, so I got 35 VA divided by 12 volts which would equal around 2.91 amps the fan should run at. I hooked up a multimeter at the relay and ran it through the multimeter and am getting 5.7 amps while the fan is running. Isn't that a lot higher then it should be? Sounds like an obvious problem to me but what do you guys think?
 
#2 ·
It does sound like it is pulling too much current
Also, on those occasions when it resests your gauges, suggests it is really sinking a lot of power.
Then , when it does not come on, it may be pulling even more power but 'stuck'

The fan should move really freely - you should be able to flick a blade with your finger and have it spin. If it won't do that, check for FM (foreign material - debris)

Does your battery charge well?
What voltage do you get across the battery with bike idling? and at say 4k rpm?
 
#3 ·
The fan doesn't seem to have any debris in it. If I flick it, it will turn approximately one turn. I don't believe it would spin two or three turns. There feels to be a resistance at what appears to be at each magnetic pole, when turned very slowly by finger. Does this all seem normal?


Today I did Zam's Charging system upgrade. I left the original wiring intact also. It did not fix the fan problem though. I am currently getting 14.6v idling and 14.3v at 4k rpm. Also the battery is only 1 week old.

I can get better numbers tomorrow but today I watched the battery voltage, with the engine running, while I flicked on the high beams. The voltage barely dropped. I then had the fan come on from the relay and the voltage went down around 1.5volts and stayed there until I turned the fan off. That seems like it is pulling way to much power? I will get exact numbers tomorrow.
 
#4 ·
After doing the electrical modification, be sure to pull the 30 amp battery fuse from the factory block, as having that in there allows for an overload of current if the rec/reg was to fail (DEcosse first discovered this a while ago).

As for your issue, it is not an uncommon one with the TT600 and Speed Four. I cannot really give input into how to fix it, but it has happened to me on the 3 TT600/S4's I've owned--although it only reset the gauges once on my current TT600. The charging system modification helped, but I found that there is a connection between the fan bogging the engine down when turning on and the ECM map loaded.

I have no rationale explanation for this, but I will explain what I have noticed. My current TT600 never had the bogging issue for about two months. I then loaded a customized map that I've used on other bikes, and the problem appeared the first time the fan kicked on. This continued for a few months until I changed the ECM map once again; the problem went away. I then loaded yet another map months later and the first time the fan kicked on it really bogged the engine and reset the gauges due to a lack of current. I went home and loaded another map and the issue has not appeared since. My first TT600 never had the bogging issue for a good year or so. I then loaded another factory ECM map and the problem appeared. After a few months of that, I changed maps and never had the issue again. I cannot explain it, but the fact that the issue started and stopped with multiple map changes on two different motorcycles is too much of a coincidence in my opinion.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Hey, I am (and have been for quite some time - like years) having the same problem.

The fan comes on at 103-104deg, computer resets, tachs go to zero, and the speedo comes back on and just reads zero, tacho works, but then at idle will drop to zero... Keeping the revs up keeps everything running all right, but I'm over it and just want the problem to go away. :/

It was never a problem til the first time my stator burned out, since then its been the bane of my motorcycling existence... My local dealer is seemingly unable to remedy the problem.

Do I need to upsize or upgrade the wiring, buy a new fan unit, or go and get some custom fuel maps put on it?
 
#6 ·
As I stated in my above post, I have no idea how anyone can easily pinpoint the cause of these issues. I don't think it's as easy as loading custom ECM maps, as the problem occurred for me when loading both custom and oem maps from different map numbers/platforms. I honestly think it's a bug in the programing that has not been rooted out.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Have you test them again. ? Be sure.

I have adjusted my fan to come on at 100. When you changed the stator & r/r did you use the orginal connectors.?

Things the check.
* Fan relay - get a new one if it is not switching on. (Test this with TuneECU)
* Thermo sensor switch.
* Stator wire connector (these tend to melt)
*Battery terminal connector (are they tight n clean)



Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk
 
#14 ·
If the meter goes ape when the fan kicks on, then there is insufficient current available to supply all the demands and the voltage sags accordingly

You need to get some real data rather than speculating;
connect voltmeter across battery and get readings
a) Ignition Off
b) Ignition On, headlights on (not started)
c) Engine Running at idle, headlights on
d) Engine Running at Idle, headlights on, Fan kicks on.
 
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