Triumphrat

FifeTiger

had a binding brake so for the first time ever decided to tackel it myself.

Undid the two blts holding the caliper, and the Torx screw holding the pipe retaining clip and away we went.

It was really dirst and really badly corroded but some magic brake cleaning spray seemed to clear that up pretty well.

Now I noticed there's a pin running through the pads at one end of the caliper. I thought I'd undo this and see if I could remove the bracket that holds the plate in place between the pads and pistons.

Is it removeable ? The top 1/4 inch came out but it seems to have sheared from the rest. am I going to have to tap this out to replace the pads eventually ?

And while I'm ait it, how do you remove that bracket which gets in the way of a good scrub ?

pineygroveshop

Yes, you will have to remove it to replace the pads. If you soak the threaded end with a penetrating oil and grip the pin between the pads with a plier or visegrip, you should be able to back it out all the way. Of course, you will have to purchase a new pin.
This pin, when doing a break caliper cleaning, needs to be cleaned and greased before fitment.
As for the bracket, I'm not sure what you write about.

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Cheers,
Stephen
Pack Leader
CARAT

FifeTiger

OK, if you hold the caliper upside down so you can see the pads, there's a metal bit running along the length of the caliper which is joined to the plate that the pistons press against. It's also the mounting bracket for fixing to the fork.

It's spring in some way at one end, presumably to ease the pads off the disc again after braking ?

bigD

Fife tiger

If I remember correctly (not guaranteed),you have got the first stage right. there is a retaining screw that covers the end of the pin. if you then clean out the grease & gime from the hole you should see that the pin end is slotted, stick a suitably sized screwdriver into this slot & screw the pin out, it has a threaded end.

I am of course as usual open to correction on this matter.

take carefull note odf where all of the bits go before you strip it any further.

Having cleaned up the pistons I would try to move them before re-assembling. Remember to make up a packer to fit in the calliper to esure that the pistons don't pop out when you press the lever. Once you have got them moving inwards (under fluid pressure and only a wee bit 1mm or so) give the pistons another clean with your magic cleaner. Take the top off of you brake reservoir & then press the pistons back into the calliper (make sure its done slowly & that the fluid doesn't overflow at the reservoir. then rebuild the caliper using a copper based brake grease coating all of the sliding surfaces (not the friction faces obviously or the pistons) and the pins & threads. Put a thin smear of the grease between pad & shim & piston end as well to prevent squeel. The haynes book of lies covers this quite well.

Good luck.

D

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Big D

If you can't be kind, at least have the decency to be vague.

FifeTiger

Aaaah, thta has a ring of truth to it.

Is the retaining screw about 5mm long ? I never looked that closely into the hole, just at the small lump of screw that came out remarkably easily, the two inches or so of pin remaining and cried.

Is it possible to separate the caliper from the mounting bracket completely ? I honestly don't understand how the mounting bracket moves in relation to the caliper (or vice versa) but it is attached at the retaining pin end and the opposite end. Now we've cracked the pin end, what about the other end ?

There's a rubber shoe over something which slides in and out, but can it be separated at that point ?

robbie

Hi Fife

First of all slow down
A few minuets thinking saves a lot of time later

Tools
M12 ring or socket
Allen key set
Large Flat screwdriver
G clamp or big pipe grips
Rags
Brake cleaner
High melting point grease (Copper slip/ brake grease)
Fine wet and dry

If you haven’t got the tools get them before you start

If you can reattach the calliper back onto the fork, this will allow you to put more force on the blanking plug and pin.

You will see a blanking plug with a screwdriver slot, his covers the Allen head of the pad pin.

Spray with WD40 or other stuff and let it soak

Find a good (very good) fitting large screwdriver and remove the blanking plug.

If all else fails you can use an impact driver, try a Kawasaki dealer for spares,

Once removed slacken the pin using Allen key do not remove just yet.

Remove the calliper from the forks M12 bolts

Unscrew the pin and remove the pads.

There is a thin spring like clip on the top of the pads, have a good look at it so you can remember how it is fitted and pull it off.

The silver bracket is only held onto the calliper by two pins and will slide if you get it parallel and slowly force it off.

Don’t worry about the rubber boots they will pop off,

These pins are what the calliper slides on to take up wear and grip the disc. They must be a nice sliding fit after you have cleaned it up

You should be able to get to the pistons now, very slowly pump the brake and note what piston moves and if it goes back a little bit when you stop.

Clean all around the piston, you will push them back and you don’t want any dirt being pushed into the seals.

Fit the G clamp onto the piston that moved or use tie wraps to stop it moving and again pump the lever so the second piston is moved out a bit.

Clean up this piston.

When both are clean slowly push them in, the fluid will rise in the reservoir so watch out.

The rubber boot on the bracket can be pulled out and cleaned

Clean the pin on the calliper and the bore of the bracket need to be cleaned.
A bit of light wet and dry can be used but don’t go mad. Try the pin in the bore without the boot; it should be a nice sliding fit.

Clean the pin on the bracket, it slides in a rubber sleeve on the calliper, if you use a small screwdriver with a rag soaked in cleaner be careful not to pop the end off.

Again try the pin in the bore

The bracket has two lined groves near the bore. Clean the linings and watch you don’t damage the thin bent corners.

Clean up the pad pin small diameter, don’t go mad, nice smooth surface not polished.

Clean the flat spring clip

Fit the rubber boot back on the bracket

Lube the bore, lube the rubber sleeve, don’t go mad fit the bracket and slowly push it all the way in so the rubber boots snap into the groves on the pins. Pull the bracket out a bit to check they have seated correctly.

Clip the flat spring back in position.

Using a match stick place a small blob of grease onto the lined groves in the bracket and smear over the surface, do the same to the flat spring, you can see where the pad touches.

Put a blob on the pad pin threads and just start it in the hole.

Fit the piston side pad, the square end sits in the lined groove. Taking care not to damage the bent sides.

Screw the pad pin half way, fit the fixed side pad noting above.

Screw the pad pin in all the way. ONLY just nipped up

Fit the calliper to the forks. A small dab of copper slip on the bolts and torque up

If the blanking plug is ok, lube the treads and just nip it up.

Pump the brakes until the lever is normal.

One down two to go!!

__________________
Robbie and 'Mohan' the original Silver Tiger
TIGER 955i 2003
My Photos

FifeTiger

I think I'll have to take that home and do it line by line, followed it up to taking the pads out then the rest of the descriptions I don't really follow.

Pins, bores, barrels, boots ??

Need to read it with the caliper in my hand.

Long weekend ahead, possibly followed by public transport I fear :-(

bigD

Fife Tiger

Just follow Robbie's idiots guide, (nice bit of work by the way) & takes about the same time to do than it probably took to type. Have confidence & be bold, just don't pop out a piston. I agree with everything Robbie has said but if you have a sticky piston I would follow my suggestion that you make up a spacer to fit in the calliper to prevent the pistons moving too far, a piece of scrap timber cut to fit makes a fine blank. a bit of belt & braces.

D

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Big D

If you can't be kind, at least have the decency to be vague.

miker

Robbie, great procedure and to the last detail. Anyone reading that should be able to do it with ease. Well done.

Mick

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FifeTiger

OK, watch this space.

Something for the weekend sir ?

I also have a cystern syphon to change this weekend so which one do you think will cause the most heartache ??

Life is good !!