Just a quick tip for those contemplating taking a tyre off the rim, to fix a puncture in the middle of knowhere:

Use the side stand to break the bead on the tyre. Place the wheel on the floor, lean the bike over to the right, just enough to get the tyre under the side stand, then lean the bike back over to the left, and apparently the combined weight of rider pushing and bike will break the bead. Then it's innertube out, patch on, tyre back on and reinflate.

Sounds easy, but in the middle of knowhere, by yourself, night time, etc.....I bet it isn't !

Come to think about it, you couldn't do it by yourself. How would you keep the bike on it's side stand with only one wheel on it ??


I don't know if this would actually work, I just read it somewhere.

Given the struggle I had to break the beads in my nice warm, dry, well-lit workshop, there's no way I'd try that out on the road. I'm afraid it would be Mr. Recovery Man for me.

__________________
Ian
2004 Tiger 955i
1955 Velocette Viper.

graeme, I've read that too and we've tried it on a Huseberg 501e, although there were two of us.

We took off the back wheel, and put a big rock under the swingarm, then laid the bike over on the tyre to break the bead. It took one to steady the rear of the bike and one to do the pushing, but it worked. It also helps to spray a little WD 40 about the bead to aid it in breaking.

Another trick to reseating a tubeless bead if you don't have compressed air is to put a little parrafin around the rim and set fire to it. The short burst of explosion seals the bead and puts the fire out, yes it's dangerous, but it works if you're really stuck and not getting the bead to seat. Of course, you need to have parrafin with you, but petrol works too, if you're game.

Mick

__________________


My Album

"We may not be able to change the direction or strength of the wind, but we can always trim our sails"

My on-board kit includes: the tools necessary to remove front and back wheel, a patch kit with the CO2 cartridges, a motopump, 3 tire irons, valve core removal tool and a large C-clamp to break the bead. I've done roadside patching twice and got home both times.

__________________
Cheers,
Stephen
Pack Leader
CARAT

I have a kit that I bought mail Order a few years ago that includes a 20oz?? cartridge.. IE it holds about the 3-4 times as much ait as the std cartridges. Any one cartridge will easily fill our rear tires. I did plug and fill my Rear on the ST once.. luckily at work with no pressure of bad weather or darkness... found a nail, used a plug and away we go... the plug lasted another 1500 miles until the the tire was used up. I had forgotten about the plug until I found the inside blob upon removing the tire for replacement.

Now to go out and find some replacement cartridges!

__________________
2003 Sprint ST-23,000 miles-5th set of tires! For Sale & 2006 Tiger - Caspian Blue of course!
Click to Visit the Trip Report Forum
Orrr, Click Here to Visit the Gear & Gadgets Forum!!
Read my really long trip report!

A Nice little tip
Buy a cartridge gun which takes the none threaded cartridge (preferably the one with the gaudge).
Then look online for any Airgun shops these sell the cartriges for co2 powerd guns at around £18 for 30 around about 50p each but it's better to buy bulk.

They also sell a huge cartridge threaded type with about 50 small charges in it for about £8.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SKS-Airchamp-P...3286.m20.l1116

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/40-CROSMAN-12G...d=p3286.c0.m14

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/40-CROSMAN-12G...d=p3286.c0.m14

This was just a quick search I'm sure you can get them even cheaper.




Cheers BIG BILL

__________________
Fat and Fit :
AND GOT TO BE BLACK (fastest colour)

I had to use the cartridge type repair kit last year for the first time. I was touring in France with a mate on his Honda SP2 and he ended up with a screw in centre of rear tyre.

I have to say I was very impressed with it. The one thing I would say though is that when you have removed the offending item and use the tool supplied to roughen/clean up the punture hole make sure you really work it in and out and open the hole up. If you don't then when you try to push the 'plug' into the hole you will have to push so hard it tears the 'plug' I did not open hole up properly the first time so scrapped a 'plug'.

Regarding the cartridges we used three on his 190 section rear tyre which put enough pressure in to safely ride to a garage and inflate it some more. It does say not to ride above 50kmh (I think) until you have tyre repaired or replaced but we could not get to a tyre place for three days. The tyre lost approx 4psi each day so we kept topping it up and speeds well let's say we were doing well over 50kmh!!

All in all a great piece of kit to get you out of the do do. Always keep mine with me.

Quote:

Speaking of tyre plugs for the naysayers...

I would agree with this. I use the "Stop and Go" tyre plugger kit - absolutely brilliant it is ( especially for nail magnet such as myself )! As for the plugs themselves - I've ridden 10's of thousands of miles with them in, and never had a problem - just plug the gap and forget it.

Pluck

Are you chaps all talking about cast wheels and tubeless tyres, or do any of these products do the job on a spoke wheel 03 with tubes? Having just been round to see my 18 stone, clog-wearing mate to replace the tube on the rear after a puncture, we had to use a (big) vice to break the bead - hardly roadside stuff...

Originally Posted by Nigeh

The one thing I would say though is that when you have removed the offending item and use the tool supplied to roughen/clean up the punture hole make sure you really work it in and out and open the hole up.

HUGE tip.....BEFORE you do anything, check the glue in your kit is still fluid. I made the mistake of reaming out the hole only to discover the glue had dried out. Bugger!

__________________
H
'02 Tiger955i in black.