I think you're right littlefield, the fault first appeared to be like a connection fault and we've done the loop and it's right back to a poor connection/grounding problem suspicion.
I will start with the ignition switch then the solonoid. The other contacts were all checked.
If anyone else reads this and has any sugestions pls feel free to coment or help.
I will keep you posted the next time I log on.
Did you actually check for dry joints? The leads (wires) where they are soldered into the teminals? I've had a nasty time tracking down similar problems on my old Harley, only to find that whilst the battery terminals were in great shape, the wires into the terminal connectors. A bit of heat and solder on all of them sorted it out.
Will check for poor solder joints at battery terminal.
I have a 12v light tester and will try checking for power at diffrent spots when it fires up properly and when it fails.
Does anyone know where the neutral switch is located on the bike. I see this switch in the service manual diagram but can't find it on the bike ? Is it in the cluster panel ?
The battery connections look good. I think I will go for a ride recreate the problem and then check with my test light for voltage at diffrent spots.
any ideas...????
Can't say for sure on your bike, but the neutral light switch should be on the left side of the crankcase, as you sit on the bike, up and inside the gear leaver. It will have a single wire terminal pushed on to it.
Does yours also have a side stand cut out? As in, won't start in gear with the side stand down? Worth another look at that one....
Just seen another similar fault on another forum, they suspect the clutch switch, this is a cut-out to stop the bike starting in gear. If this switch sticks you won't be able to start the bike.
To check this wait until the bike won't start again then pull in the clutch lever 3 or 4 times and then try to start. Pulling in the clutch lever should unstick it. You could of course try cleaning this switch.
Will do !
Linear Mode
