Triumphrat

TiggerTwo · 07-11-2006

I'm about to replace the rear and front pads on my '05, per the '01 shop manual - any prior advice would be welcomed.

Thanks,
Walt

robbie · 07-12-2006

Get a very good flat screwdriver that fits or you will***** up the allen screw cover.

clean everything before you start

a G clamp is useful for pushing the pistons back

copperslip all the bearing surfaces except the rubber boot

don't forget to take some fluid out if you have toped up during the life of the pads.

good luck

TiggerTwo · 07-12-2006

Quote:

On 2006-07-12 05:11, robbie wrote:
Get a very good flat screwdriver that fits or you will***** up the allen screw cover.

clean everything before you start

a G clamp is useful for pushing the pistons back

copperslip all the bearing surfaces except the rubber boot

don't forget to take some fluid out if you have toped up during the life of the pads.

good luck

Thanks -

F.Y.I.
Found a distributor of "Coppaslip", here, in the U.S.

They will be sending a tube of this stuff to me as a sample. However, they said any "anti-seize", high-temp, key: "high-temp", grease is acceptable for this sort of application.

[ This message was edited by: TiggerTwo on 2006-07-12 09:18 ]

pigpen955 · 07-12-2006

Quote:

On 2006-07-12 08:33, TiggerTwo wrote:

Thanks -

F.Y.I.
Found a distributor of "Coppaslip", here, in the U.S.

They will be sending a tube of this stuff to me as a sample. However, They said any "anti-seize", high-temp, key "high-temp" grease is acceptable for this sort of application.

That is true, any good anti-seize is fine. The rest of Robbie's suggestions are spot on as usual. I find it useful to regularly take off the caliper pins so that they don't seize but I ride the bike in the winter in Maine...

Fred

robbie · 07-13-2006

Quote:

On 2006-07-12 09:13, pigpen955 wrote:

That is true, any good anti-seize is fine.
Fred

A lot of High temp anti-seize greases are based on Molybdenum disulfide. we have here Moly-slip

Moly turns abrasive if contaminated by water

Moly is OK for inside an engine but not for things such as calipers and chains

TiggerTwo · 07-13-2006

Hi Fred and Robbie,

Thanks for the advice. A tube is on it's way. In the mean time I'd really like to find one without the Molybdenum disulfide base - any suggestions?

Also, the shop manual describes the front pad replacement procedure without removing the calipers (page 13.9). Then it goes on to say that the rear pad procedure is the same as the front and one must refer to the front procedure (page 13.17).

Almost as if they are saying to use the disc to retain the pistons as the pad is withdrawn.

Would be interesting to hear an opinion on this. Perhaps I'm mis-interpreting the procedure.

[ This message was edited by: TiggerTwo on 2006-07-13 06:50 ]

iansoady · 07-13-2006

Quote:

On 2006-07-13 06:47, TiggerTwo wrote:

Also, the shop manual describes the front pad replacement procedure without removing the calipers (page 13.9). Then it goes on to say that the rear pad procedure is the same as the front and one must refer to the front procedure (page 13.17).

You can do it like that but I prefer to whip the caliper off and have a good look at the pistons, clean them up etc. It's only a couple of bolts to remove.

TiggerTwo · 07-13-2006

Quote:

On 2006-07-13 07:28, iansoady wrote:

You can do it like that but I prefer to whip the caliper off and have a good look at the pistons, clean them up etc. It's only a couple of bolts to remove.

So, you pop out the pistons and wipe 'em down?

Sound's like good advice.

Thanks ~

pigpen955 · 07-13-2006

Quote:

On 2006-07-13 05:51, robbie wrote:

Quote:

On 2006-07-12 09:13, pigpen955 wrote:

That is true, any good anti-seize is fine.
Fred

A lot of High temp anti-seize greases are based on Molybdenum disulfide. we have here Moly-slip

Moly turns abrasive if contaminated by water

Moly is OK for inside an engine but not for things such as calipers and chains

Ribbie-

Thanks, I didn't know that. I quess that is my one thing for today

Fred

KuzzinKenny · 07-13-2006

Quote:

On 2006-07-13 12:09, TiggerTwo wrote:

Quote:

On 2006-07-13 07:28, iansoady wrote:

You can do it like that but I prefer to whip the caliper off and have a good look at the pistons, clean them up etc. It's only a couple of bolts to remove.

So, you pop out the pistons and wipe 'em down?

NO !! Warning !! Warning !! missread !! missread !! :???:

i think what iansoady meant was to clean the part of the pistons that you can see, without removing them. when you have the caliper out it gives you a chance to check the piston for marks, scores and freedom of movement and also check the dust seal for splits. try NOT to pop the pistons out unless you are overhauling them.

KK