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Tiger Workshop (archive) Shop Talk, Ideas, Hints, and Tips for smooth running for the 885 - 885i - 955i & 1050i Tigers (Threads in this sub-forum will be progressively moved to their relevant model sub-forum)

 
 
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Old 06-15-2011, 10:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Newcomer to Hinkley Tiger 955i (clunky?)

Hi,
I have just bought a 2007 registered Tiger 955i with low (8000 ish) mileage having been used to Meriden machines which I still own but wanted a more reliable steed to use when the others occassionally go wrong.
I don't really know the machine that well at the moment and am still getting used to it and the LHS gearshift etc but my first impressions are that the gearbox is clunky and there is a fair bit of transmission snatch when used in slow running conditions in traffic which requires very judicious control of throttle and clutch to ensure a smooth take away. Also there is quite a clunk when selecting first gear but also in neutral I can hear/feel the clutch plates knocking unless I pull the clutch in. Other than that the bike is great when it gets going is flexible through the gears and I am sure that when I get more familiar I will get used to its little drawbacks. As I haven't ridden any other Tigers, are these 'features' normal?

All of these little features do exist to some extent in Meriden twin models but in my opinion to a lesser degree and the gearboxes are smoother in operation although there are not as many gears.

Your comments will be valued as I would like to know whether I have to choose to ignore the clunky gearbox and backlash or do something about it.

Thanks,
Mike



Mike
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi Mike,

IMHO the 955 gear change is very clunky until the bike has a fair few miles on it, i.e. - 15,000 miles plus.

As for the snatch and clunks, if you don't have the clutch cable adjusted to perfection, you may have problems. If there's too much freeplay neutral will be hard to find, first gear selection will be very clunky, etc. Unfortunately, if you don't have hands like shovels, the clutch lever can be a fair stretch when adjusted correctly.

Personally, when on the move and slipping the clutch, I've never had a problem, even when demonstrating full lock to lock figure of eights to trainee's.

Keep us posted if adjusting the clutch makes a difference
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Old 06-15-2011, 04:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hiya Mike, Just bought my Tiger 1050 3 weeks ago and I also had clunky gear change, Was given lots of advice but what work for me was running the drive chain slack slightly looser than the recommended 40mm, I have set my chain to just under 45mm and what a difference, really smooth gear changes
The first gear clunk is normal on most makes of bikes and does it on mine, especially when the engine is at normal running temperature, My previous BMW would clunky in first and also second gear, Sounded like bricks dropping from a height,
Check also when the bike last had a oil change? Using good brand oil can help too
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:41 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the input Graeme and Andy.
The clutch lever does not have excessive free play and my hands are large enough to pull in fully. The clutch does not seem to drag but clonks quite heavily when selecting first and jerks forward a bit initially as though the plates are a bit sticky but does not seem to be dragging once engaged. Neutral is difficult to select coming from first but is easier coming from second. The pull away is quite smooth on the clutch but at slow speeds with the clutch out the transmission seems to have a lot of backlash and can be jerky but this may be normal and I just have to get used to handling it the best way once I get used to it.

I didn't get a handbook with the bike although I have since bought the Haynes manual. When I looked up chain adjustment there is just a check by hanging a weight on the chain to check stretch but I haven't found the normal adjustment procedure yet. It does look a little tight to me when it is on the centre stand. What is the proper way to adjust the chain on this bike?

The oil has been changed as it has just been serviced allegedly and looks clean but there is no indication which oil was used so I may swap it to be sure. I believe Mobil 1 is recommended for this model is that correct?
Thanks,
Mike
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Old 06-16-2011, 12:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You need to have more slack in the chain than recommended in the Triumph manuals otherwise you'll get the sort of problems you mention. Around 50mm isn't out of the way (measured on the centre stand).

Mine always clunks into 1st when warm but weirdly (unlike your Meriden bike which will need the plates freeing with the kickstart) doesn't clunk on the first engagement of the day. I find even when warm if you hold the clutch out for a few seconds in neutral the gear engagement is much quieter.

The engines are a bit rattly compared to modern Japanese bikes (but quiet compared to what I'm used to!)
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Old 06-16-2011, 01:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hi Mike,

Chain adjustment on the Tiger is important and does affect the smoothness of gear changes. Most people go with 50mm of free play while the bike is on the centre stand.

To check the chain tension, put the bike on the centre stand. Rotate the rear wheel a few times to find the tightest point of the chain. Slacken the axle nut enough for the sliders to work. Slacken the locking nuts on the adjuster. Wind the adjusting bolts an equal amount either side until you get the required freeplay on the chain. Ensure that the rear wheel is true by using the notches built in to the slider. Tighten the lock nuts and axle bolt. Recheck tension.

The important bit is to get someone to sit on the bike to compress the rear suspension while you recheck the chain tension. You will find all of your freeplay will have disappeared and the chain will feel tight. If there's no slack on the chain, I would have another bash at adjusting the tension.

Hope that helps
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Old 07-07-2011, 10:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Gave the bike a good airing last weekend (160m) after slackening the chain as it was rather tight. Also there was a little free play in the clutch cable but it is quite subtle to find that last bit of play without risking taking all the slack and more. Anyway the clutch performs a little better now and if you hold it in for long enough you can select 1st without a clunk but not often.
There are a couple of things that I would like to check with other owners to see if they are normal for this machine:

In neutral when the clutch is engaged I can feel the plates rattling around in the grooves which disappears when the clutch is operated. Is this a fault or normal?

When the bike is on the centre stand without the engine going and 1st gear is engaged, there is a lot of backlash in the transmission when the wheel is rotated back and forth. This makes it hard to carry out slow speed riding in traffic with the clutch released and very low throttle openings without jerking. Is this a normal characteristic of the bike or is there something wrong with the transmission?

On the overrun with the throttle off, there is a burbling backfire from the exhaust which on older twins is symptomatic of air getting into the exhaust system. Is this normal or needing attention.

Overall, the bike goes like a steam train is very powerful and handles very well although I have not pushed it on the corners and bends yet. The buffeting of the wind is a bit annoying at higher speeds and I may have to consider getting a taller screen. I have one of those vario foils at the top of the screen but I can't seem to notice the difference between settings. I will probably look at options on lowering the footrests for comfort on longer runs.

I would be grateful for any feedback anyone has to offer

Mike
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Old 07-07-2011, 11:21 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I've noticed the clutch "rattle" on all the bikes I have from Triumph (Street, 2007 R3, 2010 R3R, and 2011 Tiger800XC).

I am not a mechanic but I adjusted the rattle mostly out on one of the Rockets, which was the most noticeable as it has the heaviest-duty tranny but some point later I actually caught the clutch cable fraying and about to break at the transmission end, which was really shocking. Triumph replaced it free as a warranty item but I personally was not sure that I hadn't over-stressed the cable and so I have refrained from doing that again.

If you're like me you feel every harmonic or ping and that clutch play you mention was the worst thing about the Rocket when I bought it -- as much as I love them and have grown used to all things about them, I still remember the annoyance I felt at that every so unharmonious sound. :-)

Just my $.02 but I would like any proper opinions on my clutch cable experience and whether or not it's supposed to rattle around like that... Given how many machines i've had with it I reckon it must be intentional.

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Old 07-08-2011, 05:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hiya Mike, Your concerns were almost the same as mine when I first bought my 08 Tiger,
There’s loads of backlash in the gears, especially when tested in 1st gear on the centre stand,
My clutch also has a slight rattle in neutral and has many of my previous bikes,

To me its all sounds normal and can understand that this been your new bike you get concerns,
If you feel there is a concern with the clutch rattle then maybe you should ask a good local bike specialist for his opinion,

What I have learned from this forum that the drive chain tension must be slack for a smooth gear change, I found running the chain at around 45mm and slightly above resulted in good gear changes and no vibration through the foot pegs at speed but I get a small amount chain slap in 1st and 2nd gears now,

I have bought a new chain set and will fit soon which I hope will stop most of the chain slap,
Nothing wrong with theses bikes, its getting used to there ways,
Andy
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:22 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doublespin View Post
This makes it hard to carry out slow speed riding in traffic with the clutch released and very low throttle openings without jerking. Is this a normal characteristic of the bike or is there something wrong with the transmission?
Most bikes with standard air/fuel maps surge below about 3000 rpm due to the mixture being set on the weak side (also the ECU is constantly trying to adjust the fuel to achieve 14.5:1).

To change this you need either Tuneboy or TuneECU (search here for loads of info) which allow you to change the map for something more suitable.

Other people have found problems with the throttle position sensor.

But if like me you've come to the Tiger after mostly classic British bikes you'll find you have to slip the clutch much more. It won't hurt it honest!
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