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What John said above plus,
If you are careful replacing the screen, you will not need to pull the nose-cone fairing. By careful, I mean don't push down too hard on the "rubber squeeze nuts" (I can't remember the proper name for them) like I did a couple of times. This can push them through the hole in the nose cone and except for the rearward two holes, its time to pull the nose cone. Before installing the screen make sure these "rubber squeeze nuts" are sticking through the top of the nose cone properly...you can see the top lip on the top side of the nose cone.
If you pull the nose cone fairing for any reason, check its mounts for cracks, etc. I found the center guide pin mount cracked and two of the other mounting fixings. This was when the bike was fairly new, and I assumed the nose cone was installed a little heavy-handed without proper alignment and the bolts tightened too tightly. I repaired it myself rather than go to the dealer. I believe it is much stronger now than originally. I cut the short end of a 5mm allen wrench off to where it was only about 1/4 inch long to use on the lower bolts on the nose cone fairing.
If you are going to do much of your own maintenance, I recommend learning how to remove all fairing panels and replace them with correct alignment. There are two SHORT black bolts and two LONG black bolts and all the rest of the black bolts are of the same length. The two short black bolts go on the front, top of the "fairing infill panel" (the black panels that go from the front colored panels to the rear colored panel. The short bolts go on the tank tab, and a longer bolt here will damage the tank. The two long black bolts go on the front holes of the front "infill panels" (the ones that have the signal lights mounted to them).
Many maintenance tasks require removal of the tank (which requires removal of all the fairing panels except the nose cone). I recommend one learn how to remove and replace the tank before one needs to do this. It is NOT hard, but does take some time to learn the proper procedure the first time. Purchase of a service manual is money well spent, IMHO.
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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.
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