Triumphrat

patrat · 03-17-2009, 04:11 PM

Just got a new chain and sprocket set on order, 46 for the rear and both 17 and 19 to try for the front. I was wondering if anybody knew what chain length I would need for either of these setups? I would like to try both sprockets, but will just use the 19 if the 17 requires a shorter chain.

Anthouse · 03-17-2009, 08:43 PM

I replaced my 05 chain and sprockets going to a 19 tooth front. My experience now tells me that the stock length applies to either sprocket size.

TBirdG · 03-18-2009, 05:45 PM

Anthouse,

Does the 19T front sprocket minimize the low speed surging effect of the fuel injection? I was told to go up (or down) one tooth from stock to accomplish this, but I can't remember which!

A few years back, a friend of mine and I had '97 Thunderbirds. We worked together replacing his sprocket set and chain one day, and it was either an RK or DID continuous chain, as I recall. Are all the Hinckley drive chains continuous? I have the Triumph and Haynes manuals, but neither addresses continuous chains. Also, what special tools are recommended to perform this task (besides a block of wood and a long breaker bar for the front sprocket nut:^)? Did you replace the seal behind the front sprocket?

Sorry for al the questions, but any guidance you can offer from your experience is greatly appreciated (type/brand chain, etc). My '05 Tiger is in need of sprockets and chain, so I hope to get to it early this riding season.

Gerry Pothier

Anthouse · 03-18-2009, 09:34 PM

TBirdG,

I added the 19 tooth front (you can't add one tooth and maintain a 46 rear- it has to be even) to lower rpms for cruising. I ordered the chain and sprocket set from drivesystemsusa.com - present cost $210 (kit number 08695513M6). It is a gold 530 with 116 links although I only needed 114 which I found out after installing the riveted link. The supplier was nice and sent me another master and I got to do the job all over again. You can probably find cheaper chains and sprockets but will they last the torquing?

I used an air wrench and the front sprocket nut came right off after bending the tabbed washer back. A breaker bar and socket should do it too. All chains this size are continuous as a clipped master link doesn't hold up as well. I ground the outside link off and replaced the chain. For installation you do not need any special tools other than a heavy piece of metal (I had a rail section), a smacking device, and a wide point punch or drift. Secure the metal behind the master and smack the master with the punch mushrooming the end. Then round it off with more precise bludgeoning. Don't make it so tight it binds as these are o-ring chains. I haven't had chance to put a lot of miles on the chain so I don't know how this all will hold up but bike shops have been doing it this way for years. You can buy a tool for this but your chain expense just went up by about $75 or more. The seal wasn't leaking so I left it alone after cleaning off the amazingly gooey crud.

I don't know about the surging effect. Keep the revs up or ride faster...