Took the Tiger to the local Drag Strip and got a best time of 12.902 @ 104 mph. I know, that's not real quick but that is at 5800 feet altitude. It took fifteen tries to get that time but after fifteen hard launches, my clutch was working just fine. That's with Mobile-1 car oil from Wal-Mart in the sump. Had the same experience with my Speed Triple running Rotella 15-40 synthetic. The Tiger has 55,000 miles on it and the S3 has 41,000 miles. Neither shows any scuffing of the camshafts. So, why is it we're supposed to use motorcycle specific oil?

Don't ask me! I use 10-40W diesel (or Shell Helix 15-50w car) oil in my bikes that rev to about 10K (I might rethink for a really high revving engine).

My assumption is diesels are a hardworking engine and so are bikes so hopefully the oil molecules won't shear and will last the distance. The Shell oil I change at about 6000km (not 10000km as per the book) because I don't think it is as hard wearing as the diesel. I've had bikes do well over 60 & 70,000km before I traded them with no ill effects.

Russ

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Hi Russ,
I do the same as you re oil change interval, I have done that every bike I have ever owned since I was 17. That is what ever the scheduled maintenance duration was for an oil change I change it twice as often.

I have used Motul M/C oil for about 10 years now but mostly because after using all sorts of oils over a 32 yr period I like the slick gear shift the Motul has always given me.

But it is dear as poison. My dealer bought a huge shipment a while back and I got some very cheap but it's just about all used now.

DaveM

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Morning Dave (gee we've never done any 2001 HAL jokes on your name, even though you're a disembodied set of letters, okay not a voice, on a computer screen!), how was your regular Sunday blat?

I'm sitting here at work, only on dial up and bored to tears - and I've only been open for 15mins

I agree a good semi-synth or better a full synth definitely gives Triumph boxes that "snick" into gear effect. But unless you change them as they wear, they'll still drop down to a "push and a clunk" as the oil ages. I've found the gear shift almost as good with cheaper oil when the oil's new, so I change it more often. Not a lot of $ in it I suppose, but (as you know), I combine my oil changes at 60% of book distance, with extending the shop services to 120% of book distance. That means oil changes are still nearly twice as frequent as Triumph recommend, but the dealer service is moved out 20% EVERY service (so every 4 services, others would have paid for 5). This combo seems effective for maintaining the bike and my bank balance

Russ

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Originally Posted by ruscook

Morning Dave (gee we've never done any 2001 HAL jokes on your name, even though you're a disembodied set of letters, okay not a voice, on a computer screen!), how was your regular Sunday blat? I'm sitting here at work, only on dial up and bored to tears - and I've only been open for 15mins Russ

Hal have you been listening to Russ and I??? have you Hal

To answer the question about my regular Sunday blat you gonna hafta clicky the link:

http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-for...-good-day.html

DaveM

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geez Dave, you are one lucky bunny that it let loose at home and not on the road. Hal, really is trying to sabotage you isn't he????

Glad all is ok with you, good luck with a speedy (sprinty??) repair.
Rus

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We're supposed to use motorcycle specific oil because, car oils have additives that could cause the clutch to slip in our multiplate wet systems.

The only bike I've known this to happen on, was our fleet Honda ST1100s. The clutches would always slip when used in anger because, we were using the same 10-40 oil that was designated for the fleet cars.

The original clutches on these bikes lasted about 15k before needing new plates. Once the fleet manager realised it was false economy, the oil was changed for bike specific and the clutches then went to 50k before needing plates.

I suppose anything specific to bikes is going to be expensive, due to the relative volume of sales of bikes and cars.

Correct that only applies to car oils with additives/friction modifiers. Not all oils have these. As far as I know basic semi synth and diesel oils don't have these additives. Anything below a 10W rating definitely does and sometimes below a 20W.

Russ

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I run car oil in my '89 zx10 and my TTR250, but I change it frequently. Both these engines were designed before motorcycle specific oils were created.

A motorcycle engine gives oil a much harder time than oil in a car engine. This is because of the wet clutch and gearbox. As stated earlier modern bikes need the JASO spec oil this is the link which tells you all about it http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV0604.pdf

I always use a decent motorcycle oil in my Tiger.

Chris

I know for a fact that at least one oil company, (and I've no reason to doubt others may do so as well) makes a semi synthetic 10/40 oil that is SL/Cg4 rated, that means it is suitable for use in petrol and diesel engines......ah for car use you think, well yes but I was also told by the oil company (I have a trade account with them-a throwback from a business venture, but kept the oil a/c going) that they also market the same oil for motorcycles, but the container then also states JASO MA, it is compatible for motorcycles.

It would appear to be a marketing ploy as most oil companies tend to charge more for motorcycle specific oil. I and several friends have used this stuff for years in our bikes and cars. Prevoiusly it had been SJ rated when I first got it.
I was informed that it is usually thinner automotive oils that have the friction additives eg; 0/40, 5/30, 5/40. I have heard of some car biased full synthetics causing problems with bike clutches, but never semi synth or mineral. I know a bloke who races a CBR600 and a Suzuki GSXR and runs them on Vauxhalls (GM) own brand car oil 10/40 semi synth, has done for years without problems, he uses it because he can get it cheap.

I have not and never will buy a container of engine oil that states it is specificly for motorcycles, it's a rip off. Theres even people out there buying bike specific oil for Harleys and BMWs (boxer twins), why? they have seperate gearboxes and clutches, good old car oil in them too as far as I'm concerned.