Triumphrat

JasonS · 04-23-2008

I'll have a UHaul 14 ft truck with a ramp and have 4 RatchetStrap rigs to affix to the '06 Tiger to hold it in place.

I'm not sure about floor material inside the truck, but had thought about blocking the wheels????

What points would/have you use/d to secure the bike? I was hoping to make it look like this when viewed from top down with rear/fwd being side to side

>---<

the three dashes being the bike, I think you get it...

Is that enough to secure the bike or should I get a few more straps?

2manyhobbies · 04-23-2008

Looks like you're on the right track. If you can't block the wheels from slipping side to side it would be a good idea to run straps from the bottom of the forks, and swingarm, to either side of the trailer. /|\ and _|_, looking from the front or back of the bike.
Better yet, just ride it.

miker · 04-23-2008

Jason, you are on the right track.

It's important to make sure the steering can't turn, to do this you may need to make up a small u shaped channel to run the front wheel into. It's also important to pull the front end down reasonably hard on the forks so it doesn't bounce.

This isn't a bad article http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Trailers.html on how to do it safely.

There is also a product called "Tyre Down" http://www.kyaracing.com.au/ which is a good thing, although expensive for the one trip.

PM me if you would like more specifics.

Mick

JasonS · 04-24-2008

..and it has metal floors.. hmmmmm.. perhaps I'll deflate the tires a bit to get more rubber hitting the floor... looks like I can come off the bars to side rails with enough downward/forward pull.. might have to go out the back door to secure the rear end. I bought more straps so I will have 6 of them to work with.. .I'll snap a pick for posterity...

Tonto · 04-24-2008

If you put it on the side stand it will be a tripod and a much more stable load then you only need to ratchet it downwards at at least two points to make it virtually immoveable.

AceT100 · 04-24-2008

Used to transport bikes for a living.

You only need 3 straps....

Park it on the left side, with the bars turned to the left, and put the front wheel in the corner.

Depress the forks as far as you can & loop the straps over the ends of the bars & tighten them down so its tight.

Throw a towel across the seat, and run another strap from the left to right over the towel (stops it marking the material on the seat) if you can have a friend sit on bike when doing this, it'll help compress the suspension a little more.

Leave it in gear, and stick a piece of wood behind the back tire.

Its all about reducing the 'bounce' in the suspension.

Brooks · 04-24-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by JasonS

..and it has metal floors.. hmmmmm..

Build your own wooden floor, ie pallet, with a sheet of 1/2" plywood and some 2"x4"s. Screw the pieces together with wallboard screws or thru-bolts.

You should chock the front wheel to eliminate forward and sideways motion and the rear wheel to keep the wheels under the bike. Use a ratchet strap on the front wheel to fix its position and two soft straps and ratchet straps to create a soft version of the "Tyre Down" (see previous link). Attach these straps to bolt thru eye hooks in your plywood floor.

With the wheels strongly tied to the wooden floor you only need add some ratchet straps to hard points on the bike as an extra safety precaution. This way you won't have to blow fork seals by over-compressing your shocks and fork and you can let the bike ride on its own suspension.

Again, check out the link above for the "Tyre Down" for visual example.

TucsonBill · 04-24-2008

Three ratchet straps-
Use one from footpeg to the other footpeg through the front wheel. That will prevent turning. Use the rear footpeg mounts as the tie-down points and cinch it really tight. It won't move anywhere!

HeavyDuty · 04-25-2008

Not to sound like an ass, and used to haul professionally like Ace, but the lighter bikes can be tied down with 2 straps- and I just hauled mine about 5000 miles on a trip to haul Airstream trailers halfway 'round the USA. Never came loose once.

You don't need a wooden subfloor, you need STRONG straps, and BALANCE.

I'd agree in part with Ace about the corner job, but with all due respect, I rather tie down head on, as its not gonna "buck" sideways, which his seat strap helps, but better just to use the 2 on the front.

With the front wheel pointing dead ahead, loop the straps up through the fairing, around the triple clamps where they hit the forks, and back down. Get on the bike, push it down, and start ratcheting it shut. You can't get it too tight- tighter the better. If you need to stabilize the front tire, get a 2X6 and cut it to fit exactly sideways, for each side, and wedge it in.

If you can't see it- like an enclosed trailer- drive it 5 miles, check it, 50 miles check it- every time you fuel up, check it. If it makes it 50 miles, it should make it 2000. I like to hit my ratchets about every 500 miles just to get the max pressure on them. Putting more- like I see these guys in Daytona with 6 and more dinky little straps tied down to the handle bars and pegs- doesn't help, and sometimes causes the bucking action to make each other loosen more.

I hate enclosed- drives me nuts- I wanna see it. Good luck.

JasonS · 04-30-2008

About 1500 miles with no issues.. other than a cargo shift on those lovely roads in the wonderful NYC area...

Tnhanks for the advice and ideas.... !!