Triumphrat

tiger85 · 02-14-2005, 12:05 AM

Helllo All. I was wondering if anyone has lowered the front end of the Tiger 2002 and above. Is there anything tricky about it. Can it be done as a one man job with out a bunch of harnesses and slings. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want a bit tighter turning radius and have heard this will help.!!!!!

djr · 02-14-2005, 03:12 AM

The front drops easily enough and dropping the front (while leaving the back standard will give quicker turn in. I am assuming this is what you mean. (Turning radius if meaning turning circle will be unchanged ).

Swoody · 02-14-2005, 05:48 AM

Hi Tiger85,

I lowered the front of my tiger by about 19mm and it quickend the steering and allows me a bit more foot down at standstill.

It only takes about an hour to do if you take it steady, the following instructions were supplied by Big Stripey (thanks Jim) and worked a treat for me.

1) It is important to do ONE SIDE at a time unles you have got one of those super duper bike table bench things.
2) There are two sets of fork clamp bolts on each side, at the top and at the bottom of the yokes. It is possible to do this without removing the fairing. Just be careful and don't go mad with it.
3) Slacken the bottom pair of 6mm allen headed bolts on the bottom of the yoke. You can get to them but you may need to turn the handlebars on full lock to get to them more easily.
Don't undo them completely, just slacken them off. They may be pretty tight so be ready for that.
4) Then slacken off one of the top yoke bolts. Then 'carefully slacken the remaining top yoke bolt. If you have done it carefully you should see the fork leg rise up slowly with the weight of the bike. If it doesn't, DONT slacken off that top bolt too much. Instead just tap the bottom of the fork leg with a mallet or a hammer and block of wood.
5) Measure the distance the forks have risen from the top of the yoke with a ruler (using the top of the fork tube itself as your reference point and not the aluminium cap on top). You would be best to start at 19mm (3/4"). If they have come up too much just tap the top of the forks instead, until it is at the right level then quickly nip up the top yoke bolt to stop any movement. Then just tighten the others up again in reverse order
6) Repeat the same process for the other side.
7) You might need to re-adjust your mirrors and/or clutch and brake lever housings afterwards, but try it first.
8) If you have a paddock stand, it is best to use that, but if not, do the right hand fork leg first. It has less weight on it than the left when the bike is on the sidestand. So you will know what you are doing when you come to do the left if that makes sense?

Good luck

tango · 02-14-2005, 06:04 AM

Before I fitted the Hagon rear shock I had my bike dropped by 19mm, since fitting the shock I've had to lower it by another 5mm, so it is now down 24mm. Fitting the shock lowered the rear of the bike, not sure by how much, I would guess somewhere between 20-30mm

It certainly drops into corners a lot quicker, and I can also get both feet planted on my heels now, which I couldn't do before.

greenman · 02-25-2005, 01:58 PM

I am about to lower the forks in the yokes, but I'm not sure what the start point is for measuring. My bike has 10mm of fork leg above the top yoke, is this standard or should it be flush?

The posts on this thread suggest lowering by 19mm, should I have 19mm or 29mm leg above yoke?

Dave

greenman · 02-25-2005, 01:58 PM

I am about to lower the forks in the yokes, but I'm not sure what the start point is for measuring. My bike has 10mm of fork leg above the top yoke, is this standard or should it be flush?

The posts on this thread suggest lowering by 19mm, should I have 19mm or 29mm leg above yoke?

Dave

tango · 02-25-2005, 05:00 PM

Dave,

Start by having 19mm ABOVE the yoke.
Make sure you are measuring to the top of the fork leg and not to the top of the cap.

tango · 02-25-2005, 05:00 PM

Dave,

Start by having 19mm ABOVE the yoke.
Make sure you are measuring to the top of the fork leg and not to the top of the cap.

tiger85 · 03-08-2005, 06:53 PM

thanks for the detailed instructions Swoody

I'll be giving it a go soon.
Do the fasteners need to be torqued really accurately to perform this procedure. If anyone knows a comment would be helpful.

thanks
Carl

Swoody · 03-09-2005, 07:23 AM

If you are talking about the fork clamps, then yes I would make sure they are torqued accurately. I wouldn't like to think what might happen if the fork legs slipped during heavy braking. Also, I think the headstock is aluminium and it would therefore be very easy to strip the threads if you overtighten