Triumphrat

05-26-2003

Hi I have a 1998 Tiger 900 and am not getting good service out of my local
dealer and I had a couple questions I was hoping somebody might answer:

* do I need to take the front wheel off to replace the front brake
pads?
* If I just had a service and the brake fluid was changed will
replacing the pads require that I bleed the system again?
* the insulating material between my exhaust guards and the actual
cans is melting (like dripping down), anyone familiar with this phenomenon and can the material be
replaced?
* Is it OK to switch from OEM to EBC pads without cleaning off the
rotors?

Thanks
John
98 Steamer
Black

05-26-2003

Hi I have a 1998 Tiger 900 and am not getting good service out of my local
dealer and I had a couple questions I was hoping somebody might answer:

* do I need to take the front wheel off to replace the front brake
pads?
* If I just had a service and the brake fluid was changed will
replacing the pads require that I bleed the system again?
* the insulating material between my exhaust guards and the actual
cans is melting (like dripping down), anyone familiar with this phenomenon and can the material be
replaced?
* Is it OK to switch from OEM to EBC pads without cleaning off the
rotors?

Thanks
John
98 Steamer
Black

robbie · 05-27-2003

Hi John
No you do not need to take the wheel off
No you should not need to bleed the system
If you have had a service and they have topped up the level then you may have to remove some fluid, as it will overflow when you push the pistons in to fit the new pads.
Brake fluid is nasty stuff both to you and the paint on the bike so be very careful

Changing pads is a fairly easy DIY job BUT you do need to be very careful and have some idea of what you are doing. If you have never changed pads before or seen anybody do it then I would suggest that you find someone to do it for you.
If you are mechanically minded then go for it. Try and find a workshop manual, the procedure will be set out with easy to follow pictures, clean the clipper as best you can, take your time, look at how the old pads are held in. The callipers are the floating type and have pins that need to be clean and lubricated with high melting point grease such as Copperslip. Don’t use Moly???
Do one side at a time.
When the calliper is off, don’t pull the brake lever.
Check the condition of the rubber boots and seals.
Use a lever to push the pistons in, don’t lever on the disc. (Also check the level in the reservoir don’t let it over flow)
When the pistons are fully home whip out the old pads and replace with the new. I lightly smear a very small quantity of grease on the back of the pads but that may be just me.
Once you are happy replace the calliper and tighten every thing up, the calliper bolts have a torque setting but I do not know the figure, may be some one will post it for you. A brake calliper in the front wheel is not the sort of thing anybody needs.

I changed to EBC pads on my 1200 Daytona; I tried the green and red stuff but went back to the OEM as they suited my style of riding better. A lot of the performance pads need to be hot to work, this is ok on a track but if your style is light on the brakes you may find that you loose some feel, the initial bite is reduced and then the brake grabs.

I didn’t clean the discs just bedded the pads nicely.

the exhaust topic was discussed on the Yahoo site so have a look in the archive there, make shore that you come back here or Mike will be on my back.
:-D

robbie · 05-27-2003

Hi John
No you do not need to take the wheel off
No you should not need to bleed the system
If you have had a service and they have topped up the level then you may have to remove some fluid, as it will overflow when you push the pistons in to fit the new pads.
Brake fluid is nasty stuff both to you and the paint on the bike so be very careful

Changing pads is a fairly easy DIY job BUT you do need to be very careful and have some idea of what you are doing. If you have never changed pads before or seen anybody do it then I would suggest that you find someone to do it for you.
If you are mechanically minded then go for it. Try and find a workshop manual, the procedure will be set out with easy to follow pictures, clean the clipper as best you can, take your time, look at how the old pads are held in. The callipers are the floating type and have pins that need to be clean and lubricated with high melting point grease such as Copperslip. Don’t use Moly???
Do one side at a time.
When the calliper is off, don’t pull the brake lever.
Check the condition of the rubber boots and seals.
Use a lever to push the pistons in, don’t lever on the disc. (Also check the level in the reservoir don’t let it over flow)
When the pistons are fully home whip out the old pads and replace with the new. I lightly smear a very small quantity of grease on the back of the pads but that may be just me.
Once you are happy replace the calliper and tighten every thing up, the calliper bolts have a torque setting but I do not know the figure, may be some one will post it for you. A brake calliper in the front wheel is not the sort of thing anybody needs.

I changed to EBC pads on my 1200 Daytona; I tried the green and red stuff but went back to the OEM as they suited my style of riding better. A lot of the performance pads need to be hot to work, this is ok on a track but if your style is light on the brakes you may find that you loose some feel, the initial bite is reduced and then the brake grabs.

I didn’t clean the discs just bedded the pads nicely.

the exhaust topic was discussed on the Yahoo site so have a look in the archive there, make shore that you come back here or Mike will be on my back.
:-D

MickMaguire · 05-27-2003

Everywhere Robbie refers to "Grease" read "Anti-seize" or Coppaslip. Regular grease should never be used anywhere near your brakes for the obvious reason (it melts and stops the brakes working) and for the less obvious reason it will destroy rubber seals in the calipers.

I know what Robbie meant when he said grease (as many of you do), but I thought it only prudent to reinforce the point for those who didnt know.

MickMaguire · 05-27-2003

Everywhere Robbie refers to "Grease" read "Anti-seize" or Coppaslip. Regular grease should never be used anywhere near your brakes for the obvious reason (it melts and stops the brakes working) and for the less obvious reason it will destroy rubber seals in the calipers.

I know what Robbie meant when he said grease (as many of you do), but I thought it only prudent to reinforce the point for those who didnt know.

robbie · 05-27-2003

Mick
Thanks for that, I thought that I had covered that point but re reading it now and it is a little ambiguous
Just some points: some greases that are called ‘Anti seize’ but are not high melting point.
Others are based on Molybdenum disulphate (not shore of spelling) that is fine for stuff inside the engine but should not be used where water can contaminate it.
Once contaminated with water it turns abrasive.
Coppaslip or copperslip is the stuff and very little of it.

robbie · 05-27-2003

Mick
Thanks for that, I thought that I had covered that point but re reading it now and it is a little ambiguous
Just some points: some greases that are called ‘Anti seize’ but are not high melting point.
Others are based on Molybdenum disulphate (not shore of spelling) that is fine for stuff inside the engine but should not be used where water can contaminate it.
Once contaminated with water it turns abrasive.
Coppaslip or copperslip is the stuff and very little of it.

MickMaguire · 05-27-2003

Good points Robbie!

I used to swear by coppaslip in the UK, haven't seen it here in the US though, more's the pity.

MickMaguire · 05-27-2003

Good points Robbie!

I used to swear by coppaslip in the UK, haven't seen it here in the US though, more's the pity.