Triumphrat

Gizmo · 07-02-2005

I am about to mount, sounds a bit rude, fit an AutoCom Active 7 unit to my 2006 Tiger. Can anyone suggest the most easily accessible ignition switched positive that I can use to power the comms. Unfortunately, the block connector under the fairing that I have seen mentioned in the forum is already in use by the heated grips. The AutoCom is supposed to have soldered connections as opposed to Scotchlock if that has any bearing on suggested locations.

If anyone has seen my other threads, I now have dualled the headlights....how much better does that look ! Not gone down the blue bulbs route yet.

Fitted an MRA Vario screen, mudguard extenders. Starting to look the business. Just need rad grilles, headlamp protector and crash bars to make me happy. Keep you posted.

[ This message was edited by: Gizmo on 2005-07-02 15:07 ]

dgilmore · 07-02-2005

Hi Gizmo, I mounted an aux fuse panel on my tiger - click here - and ran power directly from the batter, through a dpdt relay (Bosch relay). That way, you get clean power directly from the battery, and you run the trigger side of the relay from any switched source - I used the headlight wire, but any will work as it takes so little current to trigger the relay. Hope this makes sense, if it doesn't let me know and I'll make up a more specific description.

If you don't want to run the fuse panel, I would still go directly from the battery with a bosch relay wired to a switched source. This gives you the least interference with the stock wiring, and the cleanest power, but doesn't have the versatility of adding other goodies at a later time.

Hope this helps,
Dave

Gizmo · 07-03-2005

Thanks for the advice. It is patently obvious that you are considerably more accomplished with bike electrics than my goodself.

If I am honest, I am not really sure what a relay does even, never mind where to wire one into a circuit. The limit of my knowledge is using a multimeter to check whether a cable goes live if I switch the ignition on and baby level soldering.

If you have time or inclination to break it down into even more simplistic terms and/or photos(I can do copying photos) I would be obliged but not offended if you don't.

There are some things I am good at..............probably !

Thanks for your help so far.
ps we have access to Tandy or Maplin Electronics here in UK. Is there any particular type of ancillary fuse panel I should be asking for in relation to amps and the like?

[ This message was edited by: Gizmo on 2005-07-03 04:04 ]

TorqueyT · 07-03-2005

Hi Gizmo,

I had the same problem a while back and got some good advice from the rest of the guys here, this thread outlines roughly one way of doing it. The short version is (Autocom will tell you this as well if you speak to them) carefully peel back the boot over the rear brake pedal switch - take your time so you don't rip anything. With a multimeter find which of the two connectors is live (you don't want the Autocom to work only when you're breaking after all....), then splice in a live feed lead, remembering to pull this through the abovementioned boot. Secure with either a solder and/or self amalgamating tape (fantastic stuff). Carefully put the rubber boot back on (this took me 20 mins, don't lose your temper with it) and run the lead up to where the Autocom is, tidying cables all the way.

You now have a switched, fused live for the Autocom, take earth straight from the battery.

If you want to go further than this (and you're a bit paranoid like me), you could also put in an inline automotive fuse on the live feed to protect the Autocom itself (5A should do). This will also allow you to just pull the fuse if you want the Autocom off for a while.

Another step further is you take the abovementioned live feed with inline fuse and feed this into a connector box, where you can take off power to other things, e.g. GPS, radio etc.

You can see a couple of ways people have done this in the Comms and Electrics album, this
was my end result (sorry about bad picture), works a treat...

Gizmo · 07-03-2005

:upthumb: Brill, all has become clear. Even my limited sparky knowledge should be able to sort that out. It's just knowing, isn't it.

Thanks for all the advice.

Phil.
ps Where did you source your connector box from?

[ This message was edited by: Gizmo on 2005-07-03 13:11 ]

TorqueyT · 07-03-2005

All bits from the local Maplin store.... If you check the thread mentioned above I think I put my shopping list there.

[ This message was edited by: TorqueyT on 2005-07-03 16:46 ]

dgilmore · 07-03-2005

Hi Gizmo,
sorry to be late in replying, I was out of town for a short while. it sounds like you've gotten some good information from others, but if you wish, I can put together a complete diagram and send you some pictures of my installation. i'd be happy to do it, just let me know if you still need it,
Dave

Gizmo · 07-04-2005

I'll let you know, Dave.

Thanks to all for the info.