I'll give it a shot
So I went with the "standard" installation meaning I wired directly to the battery, tapped into a "switched" powered wire, and used the Denali Switch. I don't think this method was difficult at all and reading my OP and subsequent posts, wiring "scares" me...
The switched wire I used was the tail-light switched power. Its in the wrapped wiring that runs under the passenger seat on the left side (when sitting on the bike). I carefully cut, unwrapped the bundle and found the
Yellow Wire. I used a volt meter to test that it actually was the correct wire. No power when the key was turned off and power when the key was turned to start...
The Denali kit comes with a couple posi-taps, so no need to solder but I will say the posi-tap is bulky compared to just soldering.
The biggest problem I had, which took alot of time was putting my Front Sargent seat back on. It wouldn't latch properly in the low position (which I need). Found the problem was the "negative" wire from the Denalis has a large "loop" which mounts under the screw. It was just large enough to make solid contact with one of the rubber bumpers on the seat that it wouldn't sit right. Removing the bumper resolved the problem. So bizarre...
I bought my set-up from TwistedThrottle.com I bought the flat-switch mount and their Tiger specific mounting bar. A couple notes. Make sure you buy the
completely flat switch mount. I bought the one with the angle and realized the mirror threaded end was too big to fit in the hole on the plate. I used a mallet to flatten the switch mount and attached it to the upper bolt for the clutch mount. OMG the Twistedthrottle specific mounting bar weighs ALOT. It feels like pure iron rather than the mild steel they list. I wish there was a lighter bar. But this is a no-fuss way to mount the lights.
Also with this method you really don't need to remove any body panels. I did, cause I wanted to see how I could route the wires from the battery to the lights. In the end it wasn't really necessary.
Steps I did;
1) Remove seat(s)
2) Locate wiring harness on left side of bike.
3) Unwrap wire, locate Yellow wire and use posi-tap on it
4) Disconnect battery
5) Mount Twisted Throttle light bar for Denalis
6) Loosely mounted lights on the bar. Found I had to move the lights all the way down on their swivel mounts or they made contact with the headlight housing. No biggie
7) Laid out Denali wiring harness
8) Ran left side light and switch wires on left side
9) Ran right side light wire on right side
NOTE: Wire routing is going to be up to you. I found a couple ways to route them. I just routed mine around the tank then just on the inside of the frame. I didn't want to remove all the bodywork and tank to find the least "obvious" route. Just make sure you leave some slack in the "line" but not so much they'll snag..
10)
Removed fuse from Denali wiring harness (just in case something made contact and tried to short something out)
11) Posi-tapped white wire to the Yellow Wire
12) Attached harness to Battery
13) Plugged in all connections and reinserted the fuse once all connections were made
14) Tested Lights. Woohoo! Everything Works!
15) Tie Wrapped all extra length wire and stuffed between battery and "snorkel"
16) Mounted light switch plate and attached switched
DONE!
A couple things looking at it now I want to do; I need to figure out a way to secure the wires from the lights to the inside panel. While they don't touch the forks, there is enough slack that bouncing around off-road I could see them coming out enough to rub the forks which over time would "rub" into them.
I also didn't secure the relay to anything on the bike like drilling a hole in the plastic where the U lock fits. Its cushioned in the space between the snorkel and battery. With all the extra wire it would seem to be fine....but maybe it needs to be mounted to a rigid spot..