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Thunderbird Twin - Technical Talk Technical talk for the big Thunderbird twin

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Old 10-21-2012, 11:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Tbird Oil Change ***??

Ok so my dealer did my 500 mile break in and now it is time to do my end of season oil service. I got 6 qts of Castrol 10w50 and an oil filter and drain gasket. This is my first DIY oil change.

So, I drain the oil and I get about 5.2 quarts out... The book says 4.11 gallons which by all accounts should be 4.5 quarts right? I have checked the dipstick in the past and it is right up to the full mark.

Anyone else have this issue?

Also, I think the incredible hulk installed my oil filter because my plastic filter wrench won't take it off. It is really cranked on there. Any advice?

Plus my filter has a Triumph logo on the side so I am wondering of the dealer just drained the oil and didn't change the filter at 500 miles...
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If I recall the OEM Filter was very tight on my bike but I did all my own changes so it was that way from the factory in my case. You'll just need a strap wrench which will be a bit of a challenge to get it in there but you'll get there. I assume the Castrol is Motorcycle oil and not car oil. As for the amount you won't be able to recover every drop in the crankcase, some is in the filter and other nooks and crannies. When you add the oil don't just dump the prescribed amount in the filler, stop a little early and run the engine to fill the filter and circulate the oil, stop and let it sit for a few minutes vertical (not on the side stand) check and add if necessary.
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I found I needed a metal cap type oil filter wrench, or one that has a metal center at least, to get the oil filter off. They seem to tighten up between changes! The oil capacity from the manual is correct. Also, Make sure you are using a motorcycle oil that is rated for wet clutch applications. My dealer is now recommending Castrol RS racing 4T. The filters from the dealer all say Triumph on them, they just used an OEM filter when they replaced it.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMK9251 View Post
Ok so my dealer did my 500 mile break in and now it is time to do my end of season oil service. I got 6 qts of Castrol 10w50 and an oil filter and drain gasket. This is my first DIY oil change.

So, I drain the oil and I get about 5.2 quarts out... The book says 4.11 gallons which by all accounts should be 4.5 quarts right? I have checked the dipstick in the past and it is right up to the full mark.

Anyone else have this issue?

Also, I think the incredible hulk installed my oil filter because my plastic filter wrench won't take it off. It is really cranked on there. Any advice?

Plus my filter has a Triumph logo on the side so I am wondering of the dealer just drained the oil and didn't change the filter at 500 miles...
I don't see anything in my manual that refers to 4.5 gallons. The service manual states that a "dry fill" is 6.0 liters (6.34 quarts), oil + filter change is 4.2 liters (4.44 quarts). I do wonder where nearly 2 quarts are hiding after draining hot oil for a sufficient time, but I don't loose any sleep over it. I'm assuming that it takes that much to coat the engine surfaces.

Oil spec is API SH (or higher) and JASO MA. I change my oil every 3,000 miles because I personally feel that 6,000 is insufficient. I also don't subscribe to what I feel is all of the nonsense about what the "best" oil is. If it meets the spec and you are changing it at proper intervals, who cares if it's Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline, etc.? A dealer or Triumph is "recommending" a certain brand of oil? I'm sure that they are doing so because that brand is far superior to any other and there is no financial gain in doing so.

Regarding filters, buy a K&N and be done with it. Why? Because not only is K&N a quality filter, it also has a very nice 17 mm nut on the end and can be easily removed using a simple box or open end wrench. You can even get it in chrome if you wish. Strap wrenches don't fit over the T'Bird filter properly and metal end cap wrenches work, but why bother? Install a filter with a nut on the end.

Stick with the specs and change your oil regularly (I recommend 3,000 miles) and you should never have any reason to question whether or not your engine is properly protected.
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Last edited by BigGuy82; 10-22-2012 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sorry: The book says 1.11 gallons. I am using the Castrol Power RS 4T 10w50 oil. OC done and it took 5 Litres of oil to get the level up to full on the stick.

Last edited by BMK9251; 10-22-2012 at 11:55 PM.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Make sure that prior to installing the new oil filter (K&N with the nut is the best) you smear a liberal coat of fresh oil on the rubber gasket on the bottom of the new filter. The turn it by hand until you feel it seat then go 3/4 turn more until it's snug. The plastic 67mm oil filter wrench that fits on the top is not the best tool but better than a strap wrench. The next time you change oil it should come off a bit easier.
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Make sure that prior to installing the new oil filter (K&N with the nut is the best) you smear a liberal coat of fresh oil on the rubber gasket on the bottom of the new filter. The turn it by hand until you feel it seat then go 3/4 turn more until it's snug. The plastic 67mm oil filter wrench that fits on the top is not the best tool but better than a strap wrench. The next time you change oil it should come off a bit easier.
Good tip. Also, K&M filters come with a pre-lubed gasket that is sealed in plastic that you take off before installation.
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt_ted View Post
Make sure that prior to installing the new oil filter (K&N with the nut is the best) you smear a liberal coat of fresh oil on the rubber gasket on the bottom of the new filter. The turn it by hand until you feel it seat then go 3/4 turn more until it's snug. The plastic 67mm oil filter wrench that fits on the top is not the best tool but better than a strap wrench. The next time you change oil it should come off a bit easier.
While it won't hurt anything, smearing oil on the filter gasket is really pointless. The only reason that step is in the the oil changing procedure is to force the person installing the oil filter to make sure that there is a gasket in place.
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I always lube the rubber gasket on the filter and wipe clean the metal surface it contacts before installation. BTW, my engine is running really smooth and quiet with the Castrol 4T 10w50.
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:40 AM   #10 (permalink)
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While it won't hurt anything, smearing oil on the filter gasket is really pointless. The only reason that step is in the the oil changing procedure is to force the person installing the oil filter to make sure that there is a gasket in place.
I respectfully disagree that the lubrication of a new filter is pointless.

A dry gasket that has been expanding and baking on the filter base can be a bear to remove so I sometimes use silicone grease there instead of motor oil.

A dry gasket can bunch up and tear. I always totally clean the surface of the filter area prior to installing a new filter. I am a ships engineer and care for 6 engines aboard and sometimes am doing 6 changes a month on the main engines on long trips.

I just read about K&N prelubricated gaskets so they must know a bit about filters.

That said I have only been wrenching for 40 years but I'm still learning and if it's a waste of time to do the gasket lube then I can change but it's going to take a lot of convincing . I'm still working as a ship engineer.
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