Triumphrat

dazco · 10-12-2012, 08:32 PM

Mine...

linkdog · 10-13-2012, 10:32 AM

I have the same ones as Daz, although I do not have the washer between the the adj. and the lock nuts.

dazco · 10-13-2012, 10:43 AM

Thats not a washer, it's a flanged nut. Probably the same as yours.

BigGuy82 · 10-14-2012, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dazco

Thats not a washer, it's a flanged nut. Probably the same as yours.

My nuts are not flanged!

Errr ... I mean that the adjusting hardware for my belt contains no flanges

linkdog · 10-14-2012, 11:04 PM

No, both nuts ( on the bike ) are the same.

BigGuy82 · 10-16-2012, 05:31 PM

OK - last promised update by me on this thread, this one 1,000 miles after the belt adjustment.

Running perfectly, no chirps, squeals or other weird noises. Belt rides against the right (outside) flange. No unusual wear. No lubrication required. Performance is perfect all around, so I'll continue doing it "by the book". If anything changes with this approach, I'll write it up here.

At the end of this entire experience, I think that the supposed change Triumph made to the system on some models (specifically 2012's) made a difference in belt adjustment technique and performance. The only variance I'd suggest is to perhaps go a tad light on the belt tension so as not to chance stressing the shaft bearings.

Deanno · 11-08-2012, 06:19 AM

BigGuy, I too did not adjust my belt at 2500 mi. and am now in the process of doing the first adjustment at 5500 mi. on my 2012. A couple of questions: 1) At 5000, was your belt loose enough to deflect beyond the visulizer window in the drive belt lower cover by pushing on the belt w/o using the Triumph tension tool? 2) Is it really necessary to use the Triumph wheel alignment tool if you have the vernier calipers to measure the distance on each side?

As I've been thinking this adjustment through, it seems to me that the whole process is more complicated than it needs to be as stated in the owners manual and service manual. Basically each side needs to be adjusted accurately to the same distance and the belt tension needs to be approximately within specification (after all, it was out of spec after the first 2500 or more miles anyways).

Any thoughts on my questions or observation? Perhaps you would be willing to discuss via phone?

BigGuy82 · 11-08-2012, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deanno

BigGuy, I too did not adjust my belt at 2500 mi. and am now in the process of doing the first adjustment at 5500 mi. on my 2012. A couple of questions: 1) At 5000, was your belt loose enough to deflect beyond the visulizer window in the drive belt lower cover by pushing on the belt w/o using the Triumph tension tool? 2) Is it really necessary to use the Triumph wheel alignment tool if you have the vernier calipers to measure the distance on each side?

As I've been thinking this adjustment through, it seems to me that the whole process is more complicated than it needs to be as stated in the owners manual and service manual. Basically each side needs to be adjusted accurately to the same distance and the belt tension needs to be approximately within specification (after all, it was out of spec after the first 2500 or more miles anyways).

Any thoughts on my questions or observation? Perhaps you would be willing to discuss via phone?

1) It was pretty loose. I don't remember if I could push it out of the window, but I'm sure it was at least close ... it clearly needed adjusting. 2) The tool gives you a reliable, repeatable reference point through the center of the axle. You could probably find another way to line it up, but for $30 bucks or so, I figured I'd just go with the tool and the manual.

If you want to discuss on the phone, leave me your number on the email link and I'll call you.

By the way, over 2,000 miles since adjustment and the belt still has good tension, no noises and no visible edge wear.

Deanno · 11-08-2012, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigGuy82

1) It was pretty loose. I don't remember if I could push it out of the window, but I'm sure it was at least close ... it clearly needed adjusting. 2) The tool gives you a reliable, repeatable reference point through the center of the axle. You could probably find another way to line it up, but for $30 bucks or so, I figured I'd just go with the tool and the manual.

If you want to discuss on the phone, leave me your number on the email link and I'll call you.

By the way, over 2,000 miles since adjustment and the belt still has good tension, no noises and no visible edge wear.

Thanks! Phone number sent via message.

dknz · 11-11-2012, 02:54 AM

Purchased my Storm mid December '11 and have 21000 km on the clock. The belt has always run to the outside of the pulley. I use a straight edge, clamped against the rear wheel using spacers that touch against the rim so there is no compression of the tyre, that is long enough to extend in front of the front wheel. I can then adjust the rear wheel relative to the front to get correct wheel alignment. When I lift the bike on rear paddock stands (I have TOR exhausts so they are well clear of the stands) and spin the tyre backwards the belt moves over towards the inside of the pulley. My theory is that the engine is not mounted 100% true relative to the rear axle which results in the belt behaving the way it does. Having correct wheel alignment is more important than whether the belt is left or right or centre on the pulley.