Triumphrat

Truss

Hi everyone

I was hoping to get some winter storage tips out of you experienced triumph owners. I don't want to get soaked by the dealer so I'd like to hear some other opinions. I will be storing my bike for 6 months and I have a couple of questions.

First......should I use some sort of fuel stabilizer in the gas?

Second.....I'm going to change the oil and I could get the oil at the dealer (and they will tell me I need a certain brand I'm sure) but what do you guys recommend. Also.....If I put in fresh oil now am I to assume it will still be perfectly fine in the spring to ride with that oil into the summer?

Third......Sounds like putting oil in the cylinders is out of the question due to limited access?

I'll take out the battery and charge.......any other tips?

Thanks!

hypervista

oooo, very good question Truss. I'm new to motorcycling this year and have been wondering the same things...

Silverhawk

I learned about this the hard way a few years ago, so:

First......should I use some sort of fuel stabilizer in the gas?

I would unless you plan on starting it up every so often.

Second.....I'm going to change the oil and I could get the oil at the dealer (and they will tell me I need a certain brand I'm sure) but what do you guys recommend. Also.....If I put in fresh oil now am I to assume it will still be perfectly fine in the spring to ride with that oil into the summer?

Get what is recommended. I believe that as long as the temps stay pretty even (no condensation) there is no issue with using the oil to start the season.

Third......Sounds like putting oil in the cylinders is out of the question due to limited access?

You really can't reach the spark plugs to remove them? I have sprayed WD40 in the intake while tuning it over with the starter, plug wires off of course.

I'll take out the battery and charge.......any other tips?

Get one of those foam knee pads that gardeners use to set the battery on. If it sets on concrete it does hurt the charge.

I used to just park toys for the winter and then fought them in the spring; not any more! I either set it up on blocks to help the tires or take it around the block every time the sun shines enough to clear the snow off the street. Of course in your neck of the woods that might not be too often.

engage

Like Hyper, I am new to motorcycling, but not to winterizing engines - I have a 1995 competition ski boat that gets winterized every fall.

First - the manual says to change the oil, put in fuel stabilizer, jack the bike up (or put wood under the tires) and put oil in the cylinders.

Even if you plan to start the bike periodically, put in the fuel stabilizer and FILL the gas tank. A full tank reduces condensation.

Put in the new oil. The manual says that if the bike sits for more than 4 months, you must change it again. I've never heard of that and being from Minnesota where boats are put away for a good 6 months, I can tell you that everyone keeps the oil.

The spark plugs are hard to get to, but an alternative is to fog the engine. This months The Home Handyman has an article on winterizing motorcycles and they suggest fogging. I fog my boat as well and the procedure is easy. Get a can of fogging compound and spray it into the intake (filter removed) while the bike is running. This should be better than putting oil into the cylinder since it will coat the intake valves as well.

The Home Handyman also suggested spraying unpainted parts with WD40. Perhaps some of you other guys could comment on that.

Truss

I'll have to try fogging the intake......that sounds do-able. Thanks for the tips guys.

About the oil.....The manual and the dealer recommend Mobil 1 racing 4T. That will cost me upwards of about $100.00!! Surely there must be other oils that are just as good that aren't that expensive???? I don't mind paying extra for quality but I don't like getting ripped off. If paying the most money means you get the best quality.........we'd all be riding Harleys for god's sake!

engage

Truss - check your local auto parts store.

The Autozone by me stocks Mobil 1 4T (10w-40) for $9 something a quart. The manual calls for either 10W-40 or 15W-50. I have the 15W-50 and my Autozone doesn't stock that weight, but either should do. You'll likely need a bit over 4 quarts so you'll have to buy 5, but that's $50, not a $100.

You also should be able to cross match the oil filter. I think there is a chart somewhere on this site about non-triumph oil filters.

kraftdinners

Hi Guys
And when you add stabilzer to the gas in the tank dont forget to run the engine to get the stuff into the injectors etc., cos if they get clogged after a good few months of fuel evaporation / no use then it can get pricey to get them cleaned, assuming they can be cleaned, had this problen on a Suzie Vstrom, I never ran the motor like a dickhead !! to get the stuff into the injectors, it cost a bit to get them cleaned, but the bike never ran quite right afterwards. New injectors ? I was quoted £400 a piece if they could not be cleaned .. once bitten twice shy me ;-)...

__________________
Alan

engage

Good point - I bring the bottle of stablizer with me to the gas station. When I top of the tank I add it there, then ride home (or around - depending on the day )

Truss

Great advice guys! To the store I go.

Thanks!

hypervista

Wow! I had no idea there was so much involved in winterizing a bike. Thanks for asking Truss and thanks too to the guys who've chipped in.