Triumphrat

mad_angler · 09-26-2009, 12:04 PM

Well today after a 50 mile trip i managed to pick up a F**ing screw in my 450 mile tyre, so its going to get plugged om monday, however in the mean time i have had to remove the bloody thing so i have the Wheel & Pulley off, any questions now's the time

dazco · 09-26-2009, 01:12 PM

Can't think of any at the moment, but if you have any thoughts as to differences you noticed between this and other bikes you've taken the wheels off i'd be interested. I guess aside from the size difference between this and my speedy the one thing i would wonder about is whether the belt makes any difference in how you go about it. I'll be needing to do this in about another 3k probably. Are you leary at all about riding it for the life of the tire with a plug? Most say replace a tire thats been punctured and only plug it as a temp solution.

mad_angler · 09-26-2009, 03:53 PM

Well some interesting things.

The pulley is not physically attached to the wheel, it slots into it with Rubber bushes between it and the wheel, this i all then held together by the rotor, iv been thinking i know triumph state the Pulley will last but i am not so sure about these bushes, my friend had a similar setup on his rear sprocket on a custom and they went quite often.

dazco · 09-26-2009, 03:59 PM

All bikes have those. Well, all but the shaft bikes or i think some older ones with springs insttead of rubber. Usually referred to as a "cush drive", they do have a finite lifespan. Some triumphs, the 790/900 cruisers for one have had issues with them not lasting due to improper sizing when triumph had them made apparently.

mad_angler · 09-26-2009, 05:11 PM

Also full wheel removal instructions

1:Jack the bike up and undo the wheel alignment nuts on the rear of each side of the swing arm, these will need to be completely loosened, remove the lock nut and undo the main to the very end.

2: Remove Chrome Belt Guard

3: Loosen Rotor bolt on swing arm (if you have a spanner large enough you wont need to remove the exhaust on this side, if you need to use a socket you will need to remove the exhaust)now the this the wheel will move in the swing arm, now push it completely forward and remove belt over the edge of the pulley.

4: before you can remove the rotor you have to move the exhaust on the RH side, you dont have to completely remove it, first of all remove the chrome cover that covered the CAT box inlet and outlet,next loosen the clamp bolt on the exhaust where it meets the CAT, next remove the bolt holding the exhaust to the rear frame of the bike, now you can turn the exhaust so its lo longer in the way of the rotor.

5: remove the rotor bolt and washer, now slowly withdraw it from the subframe, be careful as the caliper bracket is also held on by it however this also had a slot that it fits into on the swing arm to stop it rotating so if your careful one the rotor is removed it will just rest there, once don withdraw the wheel, be careful as the pulley is not bolted to the wheel it just rests in it.

6: once the wheel is removed be aware there are to spacers, they sit into the baring in the wheel on both sides that sit either side of it with the rotor removed they will just fall off so watch out for them

dazco · 09-26-2009, 07:11 PM

I used to hate doing this on my speedmaster. Every time it was tire change time i would dread it, and this one will be worse. I'm also worried about lifting it because doing it with a piece of wood on the jack ala mustangs pics looks like the bike will be sitting on the pan, and thats seems like it could be bad. by the way, do you have the tool used to test belt tightness, and if not how are you intending to adjust it?

mad_angler · 09-26-2009, 07:21 PM

well i spoke with the mec and my dealer, he used the tool on the training coarse he wen on and said it was crap, was so orquad to use you could not really get an accurate reading, he said the best method was deflection like a chain, i have taken several measurements from it before removal, i have also marked up the tensioning bolts so i should be able to get it nearly the same as before,

it now seams i will have to replace the tyre as from reading no one recommends a repair, not worth the risk, so this is going to cost me £200.

the only thing i am trying to decide now is whether to black plasticoat this pulley whilst its off

dazco · 09-26-2009, 07:25 PM

Thats what i was thinking.....marking the bolts. But good idea to also check the play and measure that.
Sorry bout the tire. Thats always a real drag, and it always seems to happen when they have a lot of life left.
As to the pulley, i've been meaning to photoshop a pic of it black to see what it looks like but keep forgetting to do that. Gotta look better then that grey i would think, but i'd do it mainly to hide dirt.

mustang66man · 09-26-2009, 08:42 PM

Thought I'de throw my latest experience in on the post. Yesterday I decided to change out my damaged belt with the one that took about a month to get. Daz thought that I was going to have to remove the swing arm to make the change. I called Triumph and they said I didn't have to remove it to change the belt.So after spending an hour and a half taking off the pipes belt guards and rear wheel, I realized they were wrong. There is no way to change the belt without taking it off. I didn't have the right tools to do this or an extra pair of hands to hold it so needless to say i didn't. Wrestling the wheel back on and trying to keep everything together and lined up was a real pain in the butt. Not to mention by now it was about 110 degrees in the garage i was in. My lift with the wood spacer worked just fine. I did run one strap over it just to be safe. So I guess I'll be taking it in to Big Twin when I get back home in November. One good side is, my insurance will cover it.

TimW · 09-26-2009, 09:10 PM

Guys, my bike has an odd tinkling noise from the belt rear end area when moving the bike around (engine off). Its like there is a big eccentric washer which moves every foot or so of movement. Almost like there was a washer inside the tyre, but it sounds too "bright" for that. Since you need to be sitting on the bike for stability I've not managed to identify it yet, although its one for the 500 mile service.

Perhaps you could keep it in mind as you fix tyre's / belts, all theories very welcome....

thanks, Tim