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Old 08-08-2006   #1 (permalink)
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Got in the altenator /rotor removing tool saturday,(8-5-06) and it worked the way it should. After removing the torsion dampner housing and the oil pump drive gear and chain, i was finally able to roll the motor over on it's top and start on the bottom end. Very well thought out and designed componets in there. You first remove the sump cover plate exposing oil transfer tubes and such. Next comes what is referred to as the "ladder support". What this fixture does is basicaly bolt down the crankshaft with one continuouis lengthwise plate, instead of having seperate boltdown caps. This is built for strength in mind. The bolts that hold down this plate must be 6 inches long and screw fully into the height of the block. By now i was able to remove all of the case bolts, 30 of them if i remember right, and finally split the case halves. All this without oiling down the carpet in my rental apartment! This motor is a geinus of engineering and strength. Every spinning shaft is supported by huge, well oiled roller bearings. The crankshaft runs in automotive style babbit bearings. Transmission componets all sit in their own little modual world. No other specialty tools were needed for transmission componet removal. Countershafts lift out by hand, shift forks are removed after removing a simple c-clip securing a shaft. The shift drum and detents are held in by 2 bolts. No springs popping out across the room, no small detent balls falling off into the upsidedown motor! I actually found my problem beforehand when i pulled the front clutch cover. The gear shift dentent mechanisim had broken which would not allow the gear shifter to ratchet back to a normal postion. Only problem is that you have to disassemble the motor and transmission componets to remove one bolt to replace the dentent shaft asssembly. Got all the parts and gaskets ordered with much thanks to Tony at Atlas Cycle in Tulsa OK. Not sure yet on the final cost tally yet, but the experience is well worth it. I plan to take plenty of pictures to post as soon as i aquire a digital camera. Bigern

[ This message was edited by: bigern2300 on 2006-08-09 15:01 ]
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Old 08-08-2006   #2 (permalink)
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i am now coming to work excited...just to read your posts Bigman....keep em coming.

questions - theres is a bolt that holds the gear lever change shaft...some have had problems with the lock tite only been put on the wrong end of the bolt, ....can you see this bolt? and has it been lock tite correctly.

whats that rear shaft drive thrust bearing look like? any weaknesses?.....the 06 models have some different oil pan fitted, no one knows why, i am thinking it might be to redirect more oil in that area.

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Old 08-08-2006   #3 (permalink)
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BidErn. Hope you are keeping Dink posted on your adventures, never know some Triumph Dealership might offer you a job just to work on the Rocket,
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Old 08-09-2006   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2006-08-08 18:15, IceT wrote:
i am now coming to work excited...just to read your posts Bigman....keep em coming.

questions - theres is a bolt that holds the gear lever change shaft...some have had problems with the lock tite only been put on the wrong end of the bolt, ....can you see this bolt? and has it been lock tite correctly.

whats that rear shaft drive thrust bearing look like? any weaknesses?.....the 06 models have some different oil pan fitted, no one knows why, i am thinking it might be to redirect more oil in that area.
I'm certain the bolt you are talking about is the same bolt i had to access and remove to replace the damaged gear detent shaft mechanism. As a matter of fact, this bolt was finger loose! I went to put a wrench on it and it just turned under the weight of the wrench. Didn't notice any type of Loctite on the threads. Loctite is highly recommended in the factory repair manual though.
The rear thrust bearing is hard to get a good look at as it is really pinned in there behind a support plate that keeps it in place in the cover. But from what i can see it is a mighty beast. I can't imagine a roller bearing of that size failing. Mine seems to check out OK. My old dealer in Florida may have all read replaced it, as i know he did the output shaft seal update before he sold it to me. I'll be sure and check the oiling system for that bearing and get back with you. Bigern
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Old 08-09-2006   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2006-08-08 19:54, SoccerRef wrote:
BidErn. Hope you are keeping Dink posted on your adventures, never know some Triumph Dealership might offer you a job just to work on the Rocket,
I'm surprised Dink isn't up here kicking my butt for daydreaming his first true love off a curve! I haven't really had the time to phone him, and i know he's a busy man himself, being a hands on dealership/repair shop owner. I'll try to slip a call in him some time soon. Work in a dealership? Hhhmmm! 8-)
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Old 08-10-2006   #6 (permalink)
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i wonder if the support plate could be shielding the oil off the thrust bearing?....
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Old 08-11-2006   #7 (permalink)
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hey Big.....this is a post from R3T...he has had his motor down to put a turbo on.....is regarding the rear thrust bearing.....maybe while your got it open check this out




This may have been said before, but there are over 100 posts on this subject and I’m too lazy to read them all.

Anyway, yesterday I heard from a source within Triumph, that the bearing is made in Asia. He was not in a position to tell me if it is a construction problem or a quality issue with the bearing, but he did advised me, since I take out so much more power then the original, to change to a SKF or similar, whenever I get a chance or a failure, whatever comes first.

There are a lot of parts made in Korea and Kina on the Rocket, and I do not say that everything made in Korea or Kina is *****, but the rear mirror and the speedometer are two parts made in Korea that I had to change so far on warranty.
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Old 08-11-2006   #8 (permalink)
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Quality of the bearing in question would almost be my guess for bearing failure. There's plenty of oil getting to it under pressure, and the bearing is quite large enough to handle the job. So my assumption would be quality of the part. I really would have to get a look at a failed bearing to really give it a good opinon on the cause of failure. Opinons on bearing manufacturers and their quality are kind of like the old a-hole joke, you know...erverybodys got one and they all stink! SKF has always been a quality bearing as well as Timken. I'm not really to worried about mine right now but i think i will try to cross reference the factory fit bearing part number over to one of the afore mentioned manufactures to keep on hand in case of a failure. It seems to feel and look OK, and i figure i can change one out in half a day if the need arises. Thanks for the input IceT!

[ This message was edited by: bigern2300 on 2006-08-11 14:35 ]
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Old 08-12-2006   #9 (permalink)
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so how much of a big deal is it to get that bearing out?...you still need to drop the motor out and i guess pull the rear end of the motor out?
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Old 08-14-2006   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2006-08-12 03:07, IceT wrote:
so how much of a big deal is it to get that bearing out?...you still need to drop the motor out and i guess pull the rear end of the motor out?
Ya' know....i might of stuck my foot in my mouth on the bearing repair time now that you bring up the access question. The bearing and shaft assy all comes out together with the smaller output shaft cover. Looking at it now with the motor sitting on the bedroom floor, it's a breeze....but i didn't think about the access to the cover with the motor installed in the bike! Sorry about that. Actually the output assembly is a compensating sprocket not unlike what you find on older harleys. Helps to quell take-off shakes and vibrations. On the subject of bearing lubrication...The bearing is supplied by pressured oil. There is a oil galley that feeds both the transmission main shaft and also the output bearing shaft. Both shafts are hollow with small oil relief holes drilled thru out for the dispersion of oil under pressure. So i don't think lack of lubrication, or the oil splash theory is sound. As far as the lower sump pan being different on the '06, the sump as no effect on the output bearing, all it does is collect and prescreen the oil for the oil pumps. They might have changed it for better oildrain procedures. Pictures are comming soon as i have aquired a camera! Bigern
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