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rocket cleaning info/clarification of mis-info

6K views 14 replies 11 participants last post by  dougl 
G
#1 ·
I purchased my new 2006 rocket classic in march this year. I totally love the bike so far, but have to say that the purchase experience at the triumph dealer I went through left much to be desired. There were alot of unanswered questions as well as phone calls not returned. Simple common courtesy by my standards .They didn't seem to have answers to some very simple and reasonable questions. Not to mention they didn't really seem to care once the sale was made.. This has me concerned about future dealings with them with regards to ongoing service. The dealer also gave me advice or information that was contrary to what I read in the owners manual and therefore, I am hoping to have several things clarified. I'll try not to right a book, but already I'm headed in that direction.
To start, they said that regular grade gas--not a higher octane gas was ok. The manual states a minimum of 89 octane? They didn't really give specific parameters with regards to the break in period of 500 miles. Only not to go over so many rpms and try to take it easy. They also had another rocket on the floor which had been altered with aftermarket pipes--eliminating the single pipe on the left side. I liked the way it looked and it sounded better. They said it increased the hp by 13. Since it involves removing the catalytic converter, I asked whether this would make the emissions system illegal--they said absolutely not. In my manual, it states--if I understood correctly--that any adjustment to the exhaust/noise control system could possible negate certain aspects of the bikes warranty/coverage in the event of a problem..Is this true and if so- does this apply to anyone who puts aftermarket pipes on a bike--for example--those superloud Harleys? The fact that they endorse this and aren't aware of the ramifications bothers me.

My second round of questions involves cleaning the bike. After reading all the recommendations and precautions in the manual-frankly I'm a little nervous about getting it wet.
There are so many things to be careful of I couldn't believe it. I want to keep the bike looking sweet like it does now, but I don't have 5 hours a week to commit to this. Question: Are most "automotive car soaps" "ALKALINE" in nature? This is a no no, but I couldn't see anywhere on the container where it stated this. Question: What does the word Proprietary mean exactly? As in a Proprietary brand of Aluminum Cleaner--non abrasive and non Caustic. I found a brand in the auto store which appears to be for aluminum rims on vehicles. Is this the same thing, or not? If it is similiar, my next question is can this be used on chrome as well or only on the non-painted brushed aluminum parts such as clutch and brake levers and or forks. I always thought that chrome got polished. Yes or no? The exhaust system has a whole other set of rules. After washing, they recommend a product called MOTOREX 645 CLEAN + PROTECT to preserve the finish. Being from the USA , I am beginning to wonder if some of these products don't exist here. I couldn't find this anywhere. If this is the case, can someone recommend an appropriate substitute? Also with regards to the brake discs. The manual recommends not lubricating them and instead using an "OIL FREE BRAKE DISC CLEANER". Once again, a product I found was brake parts cleaner in a spray can and said nothing on the listed ingredients about being "NON_OIL". The same idea or not?

Well as you can see by now, I'm obsessing with this whole idea of keeping the bike in good condition. Is this for good reason--all you who already own the rocket--or am I way overreacting?
Sorry I wrote a book for my first forum input, but as you can tell, I wasn't given much to go on by the dealer. Hopefully some of you out there can help clarify these points for me and let me just relax and enjoy this awesome machine.

Soberdude
 
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#2 ·
Ok I'll take a stab at some of your questions.

Gas-- Any quality gas 89 octane or higher. I generally run premium however it's up to you.

Break in-- Just follow the manual. Don't rev too high, 3500RPMS +, don't travel at the same engine speed for too long, and don't lug the engine, (ie starting from stop in 3rd gear). These engines are tough, just use some common sense and baby it somewhat for the first 1000 miles. Make sure to have your first service done at 500 miles or so, to remove the break in oil.

Exhaust-- If in your state they do emissions testing then it would be illegal to remove cat box. The '05 US models (except CA) all had empty cat boxes anyway. The type of exhaust you saw was probably a D&D. If there are loud Harley's in your area you'll probably be alright.

Cleaning-- I would believe that almost all soaps are alkaline. I use a car specific soap, Turtle wax brand. I use an old athletic type sock and put it on my hand to help get into all of the hard to reach areas. Don't spray with high pressure. In fact my nozzle has a mist setting that I use. Wax your painted and chromed items to protect them, I've put a couple of coats on already. The '06 wheels are not clear coated so about once a year you'll want to hit them with an aluminum wheel cleaner like Mother's or what you mentioned. I wouldn't worry with cleaning the brake rotors with anything other than soap and water. I spend about as much time drying as I do washing.
 
#3 ·
Agree with Pig9r. It will run on 87 octane, but use 89. Anything higher is a waste of money IMHO. Use any good quality car soap, wax or chrome polish. If you want to upgrade the exhaust, go ahead and do it. If you are worried about the warranty, use Triumph TOR's. Save your stock parts if you are worried about emission testing, you can always put them back on. With every hundred miles, raise your rpm limit somewhat. Now go for a ride and enjoy.
 
#5 ·
Sup, Soberdude!

You may need to do some Dealer surfing. Hopefully you have some other Triumph dealers around ready to bend over backward to get your business.

Regular grade gas is probably OK. But correct grade gas ROCKS. Go by your manual's suggested octane rating.

Use your manual for the break-in specs.

As far as aftermarket exhaust go you should be legal but there is a time coming where we will need to abide by emission standards, leaving our cat-box(catalytic converter) alone. Currently California and maybe a couple cities across the USA would require you leave the cat-box in place. Not sure whether the silencer can still be changed but believe it can. Ask a few Motorcycle dealers and see what they say or even the DVM(no not Doctor of Veterinarian Medicine, rather Dept of Motor Vehicles)

Ask your dealer if he will honor Triumphs warranty if you install aftermarket silencers. Most will cuz they want your biz and it's as common place as breathing air.

The key to washing anything painted is to use things mild enough to leave the wax and polish intact. Most automotive wash products do this, but read the label anyway. Always use a non abrasive cotton cloth or mit and always keep it drenched so you limit scratching paint, plastic, and chrome. Do not rub the cloth on the bike real hard either, for same reason. You can't re-rinse the cloth often enough. Of course wash in a shady spot to limit water spots. Don't worry on this one. Rinse off soap well and all will be great.

I believe when the Brits use "Proprietary" the intent is to use a "name brand" product, not some unknown house brand, unless of course you know it works.

Aluminum cleaner is used to get the grime off of the wheels which really can get gunked up. Simple green is an example of a non caustic, non abrasive cleaner as well as Amway's L.O.C. and Brite Max. Read the labels, biodegradable is non caustic. Do not use stove cleaner(Easy Off) it IS caustic and will stain the aluminum and paint. Use common sense. All the rest of the aluminum gets treated as if it's paint because it's probably clear coated.

Whatever you use to polish clearcoat paint(our Rockets are clearcoated) will work excellent for chrome, and aluminum once you have thoroughly cleaned the aluminum. Yes polish everything except rubber, vinyl and textured plastic(wax gets in the crevasses and is a bear to remove) Rub gently......

A special product just for the exhaust?.....inconcievable!! I've used regular car wax for chrome exhausts and protectors on all my Honda's for years, as well as automotive chrome exhaust tips. Save your money!

I wouldn't worry about the brake cleaner. The dust comes off with washing and rinsing anyway, but if you insist, ask the guys at NAPA or Auto zone if they have non-oily brake cleaner. My guess is most are. Make sure its chlorine free as this will stain painted parts.

Here is some information on what I use:

As far as polishing goes, I use Glare-Polish. The review and testimony's are impressive. This product is now Honda's official polishing product which says something. Contains a proprietary(USA's interpretation of secret) compound called "GlassPlexin" which claims to literally bond with the paint. I had to buy it. ....i can't help myself...... Works on just about all surfaces including plexiglass. I'm very very pleased with it.

Latest Wax called Glare-Polish


I'm always on the lookout for the new and innovative. So when I read the review of this biodegradable product I had to order some. It's supposed to just melt away road grime while not harming the bike's finishes and appears to be the best stuff these guys ever used. I squirted it all over the wheels, shaft drive and the like. It truly does melt the grime away. I'm very very pleased with this too.
Aluminum cleaner and more
 
#6 ·
Use 89... unless you are in a pinch and the service station only has 87... We've had a few reports where 87 caused an irregular idle.

I'm not real sure that it is illegal to remove the cat on a 2006 motorcycle. Motorcycles, in the USA, are not held to the same emission standards as cars. Very few motorcycles other than the Rocket even have a cat. I think the reason Triumph did this was because of the displacement of the engine, and by voluntarily using car like standards they may escape the wrath of the EPA.

The reason there are so many warnings about washing is that there are a lot of electrical goodies just about everywhere on the bike, and you can defeat the rubber seals by using high pressure spray, especially up under the gas tank. Just be careful and gentle... these bikes run in the rain. I like to spray my cleaner of choice on a clean soft towel and wipe the bike down. I have washed it with a garden hose twice but stayed away from the tank and seat area. It seems anyway you wash or clean it, it will take awhile... lots of chrome to take care of.

I have never seen the word "proprietary" used in this way. It usually means information that is owned by a company and is copyrighted ect. It can go so far as to mean that the info does not have to be shared with others, such as a trade secret. ECM maps are usually considered "proprietary" info. It can also mean a "work" such as a factory service manual. There may be other manuals out there (Like Clymer's) but they are not creations of the factory. In other words... things made by the factory for use only by its agents and dealers.

Tomo
 
#8 ·
Soberdude,

You need miles and smiles and much less worrying. I recommend the following.

1) Take a ton of pictures - because right now the bike is really as perfect as it is ever going to be. Don't take that to mean that you can't continually improve it, but right now as a stock bike this is the peak. Take the pictures, put them in frames and ride the bike.

2) As soon as possible, put a nice coat of wax on the painted surfaces, I use Mothers three step wax. Divide your future cleaning duties into major and minor cleaning. The minor cleaning uses a non streak auto car washing liquid and cotton towels on a cool bike. The major cleaning includes the above, but you will also need to address road grim around the oil filter and bottom of bike on a warm bike. This may require the use of engine cleaner and soft brushes. Also use a chrome polish on the exhaust using a soft towel.

Wheels. Polishing the wheels is an activity that I have yet to attempt because this is quality on your back time and I can barely reach every part of the wheel to clean it so polishing and then rubbing off the polish I would only do when the wheels are off the bike. Tires. Use an auto tire black for the sidewalls. Don't do the tread. And only use soap and water on the seat.

The Triumph dealer has a good cleaner for the windscreen. Don't use glass cleaner it will dull and yellow.
 
#9 ·
For all you Rocket Captains who don't have the joy of living down a 2 mile dirt road, let me tell you that those pretty wheels are hollow and quickly fill up with dust. You spray and spray some more, dry your bike off, then as soon as you move it mud pies start flowing out of the holes in your wheels! :hammer:
 
G
#11 ·
when I read your comments on the dealer, I thought you might have gotten it at Indy Triumph. I got about the same thing there also. Will not go back and ride over 2 hours one way to go to Joe's Cycle shop in Dayton, OH (Triumph Dealer). Nicest people you'll ever meet and the best customer service of any place I frequent. Great service department, straight up and knowledgeable. A colleague at work agrees with me and takes his to Joe's also. We live south of Indy, Indiana. We both ride R3's. As for the other items, I agree with the responses already posted.
 
#14 ·
If the dealer wasn't answering your questions, why did you buy the bike from him? What does the dealer say about pipes and the warranty? He's the one who's going to do the work. My dealer has put Jardines on several bikes and I'm sure he will respect the warranty. If you put the Triumph TOR's on, you get a significant gain in HP and it definitely doesn't void the warranty. As far as cleaning goes, my bike looks great after a round at the self-cleaning car wash and a little windex. Just don't put it on the windshield. :cool:
 
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