Touring running rough when not under load

[Shunternz]

I have an 08 R3 Touring. When it's under load all seems fine but when the load is off (e.g. cruising at low speed with more or less not load such as through a slow zone or rounding a bend) it runs rough - sort of surges or feels like its missing. I end up dragging the rear brake to create load. It's no fund to ride. Dealer changed the TPS but did not fix. I am not confident they know what they are doing. Any ideas?

[JayDee]

Might want to look at the Mass air flow sensor, make sure all tubing is connected properly, no damage, no pinches?

[Shunternz]

Thanks JayDee. I'll check that out. Not sure where to find it but assume it's all in the service manual.

[JayDee]

You'll find it on the underside of the air intake plenum, a vacuum hose is connected to it.

[dougl]

It's the manifold pressure sensor and it has 3 rubber tubes connected to it.


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[dougl]

On the other hand the dealer should be able to read these pressures with the diagnostic tool.


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[JayDee]

For sure the dealer can read it, I'm about a 4 hour ride to the nearest dealer, I do some simple checks before I bring it in. I haven't brought mine to a dealer in years.

[warp9.9]

Originally Posted by JayDee

For sure the dealer can read it, I'm about a 4 hour ride to the nearest dealer, I do some simple checks before I bring it in. I haven't brought mine to a dealer in years.

JayDee you need one of the two ecu software tools if nothing else to research any engine problems that do not throw an engine light code.
In addition, while you are performing your checks look at the low-tension lead going to the three coils. They get loose and corroded and cause the engine to run ruff at times this is due to a loss of connection followed by a momentary loss of spark at the spark plugs. Make it do weird stuff like surging and mss firing. Clean the post on the coils and the wire plugs and crimp them more with a pair of needle nose pliers lubricate with dielectric grease and re-install.

the coil wires I am referring to one green one brown the number 1 coil is the hardest to get at but worth checking and cleaning all three



also there are three hoses comonf from the throttle bodies plus plug caps on all of them one on each and two on the rear throttle body they get weathered and leak this causes a vacuum leak and sparratic running of the engine as well.

Number 1 TB


Number 2 TB


Number 3 TB

[Shunternz]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I checked for any pinched or blocked hoses, cleaned, crimped and grease (dielectric) and reseated the coil wires. Problem was still there. It turned out to be my GI Pro unit. I installed a GI Pro with ATRE a while back. I changed the setting to "-" which is the "no effect" setting and the problem has gone away. It was on the setting of "3" which has a "hard effect". Disappointing given the unit I purchased was designed to work on the Rocket 3 and was on the recommended setting. It still work fine as a gear indicator but it would seem I can't use it to give me that power boost I was looking for.

[neb]

Shunternz, the description of your problem sounds exactly like what I’ve been dealing with for the past year. I’ve had my bike back to the shop 5 times this past year and each time they would “calibrate the stepper motor”, declare the bike fixed and I would ride a short time or miles and the problem would return. My bike was doing as you describe and also had an irregular idle. On my last visit, I showed them Warp9.9’s post on this thread and they checked all he suggest but found no issues. They were in contact with Triumph Tech Support each time and each time Triumph led them to the stepper motor.

Reading post in another Forum, R3owners, I found that early models had a somewhat similar problem but it dealt mostly with high idle after the engine was hot; however, one suggested cure within one of those forum threads was to remove and clean the Crank Shaft Position Sensor. After seeing that comment I referenced the service manual (page 11.16) and realized how important this sensor is to timing fuel ignition. So, I pulled that sensor and cleaned it. My bike is now idling and running properly. This issue started on my bike after approximately 24,000 miles. The sensor didn’t visibly seem dirty when I pulled it but after wiping it with a clean white rag, the rag showed a light film of what I would describe as, carbon black. I’m going to make it a routine to clean this sensor each time I change oil.

I thought I add this post in case it might help someone else down the road.