Big thanks to Toystoretom, whose R&D and pictures I reference here:
Toystoretom R&D "PIMP!!"
Open another browser to reference these pics as I go along. Also, enlarge them by clicking on them... Slight learning curve but it is done (and starts). This is not a complete "how to guide," but some tips & concerns.
Lifting the tank:
Remove two top bolts on the instrument cluster and the whole ***** thing tilts backwards (a little more difficult with the flyscreen and my bag behind it. Use zip ties to hold the instrument cluster back if need be). *****. Forgot to remove the chrome bearclaw. Do it!! Wrap both sides of your handlebars with a towel or shirt. They WILL do everything they can to smash into your gas tank and scratch it-or worse-pop it off the prop (I used my head here early to avoid this!).
Lift the "bonnet..." no gas leakage even with 4+ gallons-propped it up (prop on right side...life would be much easier if the prop was 2-3 inches longer). Very little room in there, despite Toystoretom's excellent pictures. Remove snorkel, as well as the other rubber "thingy" piece and filter connecting the two. Nice factory "trunk" w/o the filter. I actually installed the grill back to seal it in case it can still draw air from under the seat-for now.
RU-5111. Looks VERY BIG, and immediately appears to not fit. Loosen the clamp completely, and let it slide on the intake towards the front of the bike. Fuel lines and electrical connections will fight you on the left side, I recommend screwing it gently till it slips on. That reminds me of another tip...Errr...never mind...family website.
BE CAREFULL not to squish or pop anything factory as you curse, twist & wiggle filter, and curse more. You will scarf up at least one side of the K&N. No sweat, it gets alittle more squished when you lower the tank!
Also BE VERY CAREFUL what and where your metal K&N screw & clamp are near and touching. Over time they could slice through wires and cause something your dealer may not want to fix-not to mention the inherent problem of sharp metal, sparks, and your fuel lines co-located. I actually turned mine around so that to tighten it I went UNDER the right side frame rale and between the spark plug wires to tighten it. I feel much better about this, since it is completely removed from those other lines (flipped the clamp opposite from the picture).
I also moved the filter back past the "nub" you see on the top of the plastic intake, right before the filter clamp in Tom's picture #3. I felt more comfortable "choking up" on it.
Don't overtighten it...just like you, it will buckle under pressure...
Gently lower and lift the tank. Do this several times to ensure nothing is pinching or popping loose. The tank will sit a little high-not flush with the frame-this is normal-but keep checking. There are some natural spaces under there-match them as best you can. Feel free to loosely zip tie some things that may cause problems (make sure they are loose enough to move by hand and are NOT attached to the tank when it moves.
The filter is now pretty exposed to the elements and can be seen from under the tank...and like your favorite stripper, gives you a little pink when viewed from the right angles. Keep this in mind when you go crazy with your garden hose 'Bro.
PC3
This "easy" installation is easy as long as you realize the directions are more of a "Go By" than an "absolute truth." They miss a few critical elements which I will explain here. I assume you've already lifted your tank.
Remove right panel. Some say it is two tight to install the PC there, and well-it is. Plugs will only go through the frame if you remove the positive terminal-which is super easy. Be advised, Triumph has installed some type of nefarious device (read that as short bolt) that prevents the bolt from contacting the bottom threaded nut-which drops away when you remove the bolt from the post. Use something small and pointy-NOT YOUR HEAD!! The pointy end of a zip tie will do-wedge it under the slot to pop the threaded nut up the 1-2 mm it needs to engage the screw. Laugh in glee knowing I tried everything on the shelf and failed until I tried this. Hey, you need to do this anyway for the negative post & negative ground.
Place the wire around the frame (and under the battery strap), around the airfilter inlet, and go throught the left side of the tank-placing the wire in the natural open space and it appears roomier. Of course, the directions give you no clue. Zip tie loosely a bit later.
Fun part!! Locate the huge honking facotry plug that does everything it can to hide from you and is buried under a lot of important looking & fragile wires and connectors!!
The directions show it like it is easily reached and moved. It isn't. It runs from the left side (intake) to the right (exhaust), and is really hard to get to and feels permanently attached to...a lot of other stuff. Be very careful. Examine the PC3 inlet/outlet plugs so you will have a rough idea on how to separate the male/female factory pieces. YOU do not weant to break these things trust-me.
This is where your big meathooks will not help. It is next to impossible to push the tab and safely pull these things apart.
TIP: Get a wide flathead screwdriver (test it's size on the PC3 plug tab, you want it as big as possible, so it just fits. Now, depress the tab fully and wiggle the flathead gently to begin prying the two plugs apart. Hear that sucking sound? It ain't NAFTA, these things are practically glued together! Take your time...I did, and the plastic plug tab still got a little scratched up, but I can't think of any other way this easy and safe.
Plug the PC in and try to find a place to stuff the additional plug as far out of the way as possible toward the front. Again, test the tank several times-my first try it did not close properly. The tank will sit on all those electrical components-which I do not like-but that is the way it was pretty much from the factory.
The elusive O2 sensor. It is nowhere to be seen from the right side. It is hiding...hiding just behind the plastic cover towrds the front of the bike. The plastic plate has two hex screws, and you may need to remove it or just fish it out from behind gingerly with a thin screwdriver. No lie, took me 30 + minutes just to unplug everything and look around, find the O2 bing, work backwords, search fro the hex head, no joy...yeah, do your best to fish it out like I did. Remove all the plugs, including the two big ones to the Triumph brain, it makes it easier to fish out and will help you to "pin" it later.
Hook up the O2 PC module and fiddle with where all of this stuff is going to go. I finally settled on the PC module being velcroed to the Triumph brain box, and routed the 02 module behind some of the other wires up top to keep it out of the way. Again, check this a couple of times since it starts to get tight on the right side. I plan on covering the factory O2 sensor (now diconnected) with a small platic bag and electrical tape to protect it.
Put it all back together and keep it loose and wait a few minutes for the gas tank to settle in case it has crud in it. It starts? Great, stop it and button it up tighter, and go for a spin to see if you have any glitches.
I'll spend a couple of days riding to see how it all works, and will take ithe seat/tank/pane to see if anything is rubbing.
Oh, I loaded the power commander facotry M510-003 tune to keep it a little rich since I have the K&N Cone filter, cat box delete, factory pipes. I'm hoping this will be OK for now, since a dyno tune will be coming soon. I will report in about an hour... :-D
UPDATE 1940 EST:
*****! This thing is a pig. I think it is way too rich across the board. It feels rougher when accelerating, and when I lay on it-no rush-just a lazy spin on up. I thought second gear was third!! Strangely, as I let off the throttle the RPMs seem to jump up quicker. I think I need to go down a tune-or two!!
I will work on getting my old pc in the garage and upload a leaner tune
[ This message was edited by: MiamiDave on 2005-08-23 18:13 ]
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