I know, I think this has been discussed a thousand times in various threads, each one giving little bits and pieces of info on related topics. What I am trying to do is figure out whether my understanding is correct or not before I start gathering up all the bits and pieces, and whether or not it is worth the money and time, and to put the info all in one place so others might not have to search as much.
Here is my front wheel, a stock 1997 trident 900 with 2 pot calipers and a fixed 296 mm rotor. Depending on your model/year of a T3 you may have 2, 4, or 6 pot fixed or sliding calipers and fixed or sliding rotors (of varying sizes). In my case, 2 pot sliding caliper and fixed rotor.
To do the conversion to 6 pot Tokico calipers I understand I will need the following:
1. Some 6 pot calipers (generally Tokico are available on Ebay) from a variety of Kawasaki, Suzuki, Triumph, Hayabusa and other bikes including but not limited to GSXR1000 K1, ZX9R, ZX6R, GSX1400, Kawasaki ZXR1200. The big issue about whether or not they will fit is their mounting distance (90mm c to c), but there are also some that mount at a weird angle off of some GSXR’s that might not work? Probably makes sense to use new pads if you are using new rotors. Cost ≈ $100 for used calipers and maybe $30 or so for pads. Sure would like to score some Alcons.
2. New rotors in 310mm size. Not often available from ebay, can be had at the triumph dealer for your arm, leg, and other body parts. EBC (model MD640) has them from various distributors for ≈ $160 per rotor. Stealth products seems to have a product available but much more expensive. Sunstar was the original mfg for Triumph and would seem to have them, but not listed anywhere I can find and you might have to go thru a triumph dealer for those. Need to make certain that you get the correct bolt pattern, correct diameter, correct center diameter, and “sliding” not fixed rotors. Is that right?
3. New lines, banjo bolts (all Triumph are 10mm x 1.25), fittings, crush washers (10mm x 3/8) etc. depending if you want to run a separate line to each caliper from the MC, or to the joint behind the headlight as originally done. While I think the dual bolt at the MC with a separate line to each caliper looks the best, from an engineering perspective I’m certain that it was done the original way (single line from the MC to a splitter behind the headlight) to equalize flow/pressure to each caliper. Unless your line length is equal, you will have greater pressure loss and less flow to the side with the longest lines, hence quicker movement to one side. Once there is resistance on the one side the pressure will equalize in the system and the other caliper will make contact. I have no idea whether that makes a difference or not, any mechanical engineers out there want to speculate?
4. New Master Cylinder, 5/8” bore. My present MC is 14mm, marked on the backside of the fluid reservoir. Some have speculated that the larger bore moves more fluid and is needed. Others have speculated that the 14mm is adequate and works fine with better feel. My guess is the original designers used the larger bore MC for a reason when they used 4 or 6 pot calipers so I should as well. Generally available for about $25 on Ebay used, or for well over $200 from various aftermarket OEM suppliers.
5. Care needs to be taken to remove the rotor bolts. Several have suggested heating up the bolt with a torch and then using only an impact wrench for removal. Factory installed rotor bolts were installed with loctite. New rotor bolts were suggested, but probably not necessary?
If I add everything up correctly the cost to do the conversion is between $500 and $600 dollars. What have I forgotten or overlooked?